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Have you added a new dust port to a cabinet saw?

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Forum topic by JanetB posted 532 days ago 805 views 0 times favorited 12 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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JanetB

5 posts in 542 days


532 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: grizzly g0690 tablesaw dust port cabinet saw dust port dust port location moving dust port adding dust port tablesaw

I want to move the location of the dust port on my Grizzly G0690 cabinet saw from the right side to the back. I would leave the old port as is and seal it up.

—Has anyone done something like this on a cabinet saw?

—How would you cut the hole in the cabinet metal, assuming you have limited metalworking skills?

—Is there any danger of weakening the structure of the base?

-- Janet B


12 replies so far

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

1737 posts in 1128 days


#1 posted 532 days ago

I haven’t done that. But if you just cut out what you need there wouldn’t be any weakening of the structure. I have cut holes in some other tools to set up DC. The easiest way may be to use a jig saw with a metal cutting blade. Then fasten a plastic flange over it, or make one out of a piece of 1/2” ply and an HVAC starter collar in whatever size you need. One thing to consider is whether there is a sloped floor pan under the motor…if it tilts toward the current port, that may make it tough to change.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, we sent 'em to Washington.

View Lee Barker's profile

Lee Barker

2163 posts in 1485 days


#2 posted 532 days ago

The metal cutting blade in the jigsaw is the ticket. After you scribe the circle, make two starter holes just inside the scribe, big enough to fit the blade into cleanly. (You need only one hole but two make it easier.) Low speed on the saw.

I would make that hole the net size of the outside diameter of the pipe you are using, assuming it is galvanized or aluminum. Then cut slits an inch long, an inch apart, around the end. Fold the alternate flaps outward to 90o, slip the pipe in and fold the inside flaps likewise.

If there is no stress on it, it will stay that way. Or you may need to goo it up with some silicone or something like that.

Kindly,

Lee

-- "...in his brain, which is as dry as the remainder biscuit after a voyage, he hath strange places cramm'd with observation, the which he vents in mangled forms." --Shakespeare, "As You Like It"

View Rob's profile

Rob

122 posts in 1621 days


#3 posted 532 days ago

I have the same saw and I don’t think making a new dust port would be any issue at all but I would be concerned about how well it works in a different location because inside the cabinet is a piece of sheet metal that’s angled down to the dust port area. If you change locations, you will have to either remove the sheet metal that’s already in the cabinet and fit it for your new port or add one over the existing one so that it angles toward the new port. Otherwise a lot of sawdust will stay in the cabinet unless you have some sort of super sucker industrial dust collector unit.

View JanetB's profile

JanetB

5 posts in 542 days


#4 posted 532 days ago

The current dust collection is poor. The slanted floor ends too far below the port opening and dust just sits there several inches deep. I would add something new over the current floor to funnel the dust directly to the new port. I was thinking of using hardboard and duct tape. Can anyone think of a better way that doesn’t involve metal work?

-- Janet B

View Lee Barker's profile

Lee Barker

2163 posts in 1485 days


#5 posted 532 days ago

In my experience, Janet, sawdust does not roll down hills. Like a lot of ideas I’ve had in my life, it just sits there.

It is a benign substance in the saw. If you add the port and hook up the hose and turn on the SuperSucker 2000 and proceed to cut some wood, the airborne fines will go the way they should and the heavier stuff will fall down and sit there.

Your lungs will be happy to hear the sound of the SS2K and your saw will not complain about the ballast in its hold.

Kindly,

Lee

-- "...in his brain, which is as dry as the remainder biscuit after a voyage, he hath strange places cramm'd with observation, the which he vents in mangled forms." --Shakespeare, "As You Like It"

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

1737 posts in 1128 days


#6 posted 532 days ago

I the small dust pile is the only problem you’re trying to solve, I wouldn’t worry about it. It get to a certain size, and then stop growing in all likelihood. Like Lee said, it will be benign in that instance. Changing that floor pan may be an exercise in frustration.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, we sent 'em to Washington.

View MonteCristo's profile

MonteCristo

2095 posts in 823 days


#7 posted 532 days ago

I have added or altered ports on both my table saws. While I am not familiar with your saw, after more than 10 years of experimenting with dust collection, I have found that one can never get a setup that seems ideal. A few inches of sawdust sitting near the port isn’t really a big deal. The main thing is to have an air flow that draws airborne dust away and does not let the dust pile up unduly. If the port is any distance at all from the blade you will always have a bit of residual dust somewhere in the cabinet, but if it’s not airborne it’s not an issue.

Like many others, I also have a dust pickup on the top of the blade. This helps but it’s never going to catch it all. Trim cuts that don’t bury the blade are the worst.

I think I am saying that you may not really gain much by altering the port location. I did it so as to have a better feed to the location of the collector.

-- Dwight - "Free legal advice available - contact Dewey, Cheetam & Howe""

View JanetB's profile

JanetB

5 posts in 542 days


#8 posted 532 days ago

Lee, you gave me a good laugh!

I’m not moving the port to improve dust collection, although I was hoping that would be a byproduct. Sounds like it won’t be.

I’m moving the port to get a straighter run to the dust collector and to have more room under the right extension of the saw to build something cool for storage. The current port is on the opposite side from the motor bulge so I have stuff sticking out on both sides of the saw. I have a tiny shop so every square inch I can liberate is a plus.

Thanks to all of you for your excellent suggestions and guidance.

-- Janet B

View nwbusa's profile

nwbusa

1016 posts in 921 days


#9 posted 532 days ago

Maybe slap an elbow on there and point it to the rear of the saw. You’ll still need to leave enough room on the right side of the saw to access the tilt wheel, in any event.

-- John, BC, Canada

View ScottKaye's profile

ScottKaye

280 posts in 588 days


#10 posted 532 days ago

Has anyone tried using a 4” bimetal hole saw blade or what ever diameter will match your DC tubing?

-- "Nothing happens until you build it"

View gfadvm's profile

gfadvm

10740 posts in 1325 days


#11 posted 532 days ago

I just moved the dust port from the right to the left side of my Grizz. I cut a square hole in the cab with a cheap air saw from HF after drilling a ‘starter hole’. I then removed the floor and tilted it towards the new port. I increased the slope of the floor quite a bit and it made a SIGNIFICANT improvement in dust collection. Attached the old port to the new side with self tapping sheet metal screws.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

1737 posts in 1128 days


#12 posted 531 days ago

There’s no reason a metal cutting hole saw wouldn’t work, but they can be expensive to buy. I would guess most of us don’t have one laying around either. I suppose you could rent one.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, we sent 'em to Washington.

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