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european hinge for inset doors....a slight problem

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Forum topic by Pabs posted 03-15-2013 12:46 PM 1917 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Pabs

175 posts in 2112 days


03-15-2013 12:46 PM

hey all

I wanted to use European style hinges (concealed) for the cabinet doors I’ll be making soon.. my plan was to go with inset doors. Now you can buy euro hinges for inset doors , that’s not a problem.. The problem I just encountered is this”

when you open an inset door with euro hinge the door won’t clear the frame completely.. I have a couple of cabinets with pull out drawers that basically need the full width of the opening.
Is there a concealed hinge that will allow the door to clear that opening?

here’s a rough diagram showing the problem

-- Pabs


7 replies so far

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twelvepoint

38 posts in 620 days


#1 posted 03-15-2013 12:55 PM

I’m not positive this exact hinge will work for inset doors, but you can get hinges with a little more swing to them:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=255&site=ROCKLER

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Pabs

175 posts in 2112 days


#2 posted 03-15-2013 01:14 PM

yes, it says that it will work for inset as well as overlay applications!

-- Pabs

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joeyinsouthaustin

1256 posts in 730 days


#3 posted 03-16-2013 02:56 AM

I have used these hinges, and they are ok…. but most block the Drawer guide in and reduce the width of the d box to clear the door and hinge. Even with this hinge, the door will clear, but the hinge will still be in the way. block the d box and reduce it’s width to clear, and use traditional euro inset hinge.

-- Who is John Galt?

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twelvepoint

38 posts in 620 days


#4 posted 03-16-2013 02:18 PM

Right, you’d still need to make sure the drawer or drawers are positioned above or below the hinge. Will your plan allow this?

View Lee Barker's profile

Lee Barker

2163 posts in 1508 days


#5 posted 03-16-2013 02:28 PM

Problem solved, looks like. The Euro fix is standoffs to move the one drawer slide in, like the 3600 series from Bainbridge. They’re made to fit the 5mm holes in the box sides.

Blocking out the slide has the same result. These are faster if you’ve got a bunch to do, but fussy if you’re using face frames with varying distances from edge of stile to bulkhead.

Kindly,

Lee

-- "...in his brain, which is as dry as the remainder biscuit after a voyage, he hath strange places cramm'd with observation, the which he vents in mangled forms." --Shakespeare, "As You Like It"

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joeyinsouthaustin

1256 posts in 730 days


#6 posted 03-16-2013 04:44 PM

I “spaced” off trying to view that large page, lee. :)

OP. We do this with a hardwood to match the box (maple for some of our clear coat) for a more finished, less plastic look. But that does solve the problem.

-- Who is John Galt?

View runswithscissors's profile

runswithscissors

957 posts in 683 days


#7 posted 03-18-2013 05:02 AM

I had a similar problem in my kitchen remodel. I needed to have the door open to be flush with the cab sides, as I wanted drawers (more like trays with 2 inch high sides in a floor to ceiling pantry) to be full width of the opening. The only hinges I could find were at Lowes, “Richelleu 1 1/2” X 1 1/2” satin nickel surface hinge.” If you look at the picture, you can see that both mounting surfaces are flush when full opened. The odd thing about these hinges is that they only have 2 positions: full open and full closed—no intermediate position. They kind of snap into position, so we always hang onto the door when opening or closing, to avoid slamming and/or stressing the hinges. Although most of the cabinet doors didn’t need the flush-when-opened feature, we used them throughout for a uniform look.

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