LumberJocks

Is wood from hardwood flooring ok to use for other projects?

  • Advertise with us

« back to Wood & Lumber forum

Forum topic by exterminate posted 484 days ago 3644 views 0 times favorited 22 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View exterminate's profile

exterminate

119 posts in 612 days


484 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: question flooring african mahogany floor decor hardwood flooring

Good afternoon jocks,

Can solid wood flooring be used as stock for small projects? Reason I ask is because, as an amatuer woodworker with little extra income, i find it hard to justify $9.50 a bf for african mahogany at the local woodcraft, or ordering in 50bf quantities at my local lumber supplier (whose prices are pretty similar to woodcrafts). But, I saw an add for solid 3/4” x 4.5” african mahogany wood flooring for $3.69 a sqft at my local floor and decor, and can get it by the box (18.91 sq ft), which seems like a pretty solid deal, as long as the 4.5” width fits the project at hand. Isn’t a sq ft basically the same as a board foot when speaking of 4/4 lumber?

Is my thinking solid, or with fault? Is “african mahogany” flooring actually african mahogany, or could it be stained birch?

Let me know what you all think, before I do anything dumb!

http://www.flooranddecoroutlets.com/african-mahogany-solid-hardwood-3-4in-x-4-3-4in.html#

Thanks!
David

-- Albert Einstein - "I'd rather be an optimist and a fool than a pessimist and right."


22 replies so far

View chrisstef's profile

chrisstef

10254 posts in 1591 days


#1 posted 484 days ago

The issue with hardwood flooring is the finish that is on it. I think they use an aluminum oxide finish which will really give your tools a good beating. If you can find it unfinished, or you like the finish on it, i dont see why it would be an issue.

-- "there aren’t many hand tools as awe-inspiring as the #8 jointer. I mean, it just reeks of cast iron heft and hubris" - Smitty

View SCOTSMAN's profile

SCOTSMAN

5235 posts in 2170 days


#2 posted 484 days ago

Off course using reclaimed ready used timber is very common go for it everytime .It is a real money saver plus you get the oportubity to see some old wooden floors in your case become beautiful new objects have fun and god bless my dear lumberjopck friend.LOL just one thing let us see what you do all the way through.Alistair

-- excuse my typing as I have a form of parkinsons disease

View treaterryan's profile

treaterryan

109 posts in 872 days


#3 posted 484 days ago

I would not buy it, it says it has a low gloss finish on it.

-- Ryan - Bethel Park, PA

View teejk's profile

teejk

1205 posts in 1269 days


#4 posted 484 days ago

If it’s sold as african-mahogany, then it is.

http://www.wood-database.com/lumber-identification/hardwoods/african-mahogany/

I use hardwood flooring all the time. Your math is mostly correct. Board foot of finished lumber will be 3/4 thick by 11 1/2 (or 11 3/4) wide by 12 long. On flooring it will finish to a full 12” instead of 11 1/2 but the difference is in the groove on one edge. Cut that off with the tongue if you have to and you’ll be back to close to the 11 1/2 width. The other thing is that the bottom will usually be grooved on the bottom so if you are looking for flat material you’ll have to remove about 1/4” or so. If prefinished material, don’t even attempt to touch the finished side though. You’ll go broke on sanding/planer knives (it’s pretty tough stuff). So be willing to live with that color on one side.

I like the stuff since generally only the straight stuff makes it to the box. Downside is that you will get random lengths (most likely a lot of short/medium pieces). But for a lot of smaller projects (like boxes) it is perfect and cheap.

View Elizabeth's profile

Elizabeth

790 posts in 1728 days


#5 posted 484 days ago

Maybe you could resaw the finished layer off?

View teejk's profile

teejk

1205 posts in 1269 days


#6 posted 484 days ago

Resaw is possible Elizabeth but would need a better techique than I can get with my Delta (I always plan on 1/8” waste at the planer). And then flooring has the bottom grooves. Might end up with 3/8” stock or 1/2 on a good day)???

View kdc68's profile

kdc68

1924 posts in 861 days


#7 posted 484 days ago

exterminate- I built a wall clock from brazilian cherry hardwood flooring. I aquired some pieces from a commision job I did a few years ago. He installed the flooring himself and I made tresholds for him from the flooring planks. I seen the value of this beautiful wood flooring for my future woodworking projects…he wrote a check as I was loading some of the extra pieces he had into my truck…I got paid twice IMO… Crisstef is absolutely correct. I used old planer blades to remove the finish. teejik is absolutely correct. I had to mill the lumber to 5/8” to remove the grooved backside

-- Measure "at least" twice and cut once

View DIYaholic's profile (online now)

DIYaholic

12595 posts in 1259 days


#8 posted 484 days ago

I use reclaimed flooring for my shop projects. There is no real reason that it would not work for “real” projects. There are a few issues though: (some already mentioned)
1) Pre-finished flooring will kill cutting edges (I resawed off the finish)
2) The tongue & groove must be ripped off, so you loose width (you lose 1/2”-3/4” in width)
3) Grooves on underside must be plained off/smooth (3/4” becomes about 5/8” thick)
4) Errant (& broken) nails can reek havoc on blades (Get & use a metal detector)
5) You must work with smaller dimensions (Blanks must be glued-up)

I used pre-finished flooring, with the finish left inplace, for french cleats:

Some images:
Finish Resawed:

Tongue Ripped Off:

Groove Ripped Off:

I have also used new, “uninstalled”, unfinished flooring.

From this:

To shop fixtures:

-- Randy-- I may not be good...but I am slow! If good things come to those who wait.... Why is procratination a bad thing?

View kdc68's profile

kdc68

1924 posts in 861 days


#9 posted 484 days ago

DIYaholic...nice shop fixtures !!

-- Measure "at least" twice and cut once

View Elizabeth's profile

Elizabeth

790 posts in 1728 days


#10 posted 484 days ago

This thread has convinced me that I need to keep an eye on CL for flooring now, too!

View exelectrician's profile

exelectrician

1445 posts in 1012 days


#11 posted 484 days ago

You need to watch for two things – Other than that I love using hard maple flooring.

1. Embedded tiny stones in the finish, they ruin the blades in the planer, personal experience!
2. By the time you get rid of the finish, and the grooves on the other side the board is +/- 0.670” , which is way under 0.75”

-- Love thy neighbour as thyself

View kdc68's profile

kdc68

1924 posts in 861 days


#12 posted 484 days ago

+1 exelectrian....anybody should use old planer knives…or be prepared to change them afterwards…and when the grooves are removed you have about 5/8” of material to work with…

-- Measure "at least" twice and cut once

View JoeinGa's profile

JoeinGa

3047 posts in 591 days


#13 posted 484 days ago

Alsp keep in mind that if what ever you’re gonna make is “One sided” you may not have to take off the grooves on the back. I made several of these “Americana” flag wall hangings using standard 3/4” oak flooring. I glued up enough to get the width I wanted and used my Makita 4X24” belt sander to cut off the poly finish and painted ‘em. They came out great.


.

-- Perform A Random Act Of Kindness Today ... Pay It Forward

View Don W's profile

Don W

14495 posts in 1152 days


#14 posted 484 days ago

As you see, there are lot of ways to use it. If its free (or cheap) don’t turn if down. I’ve used hardwood flooring scraps for everything from furniture to shop jigs.

-- Master hand plane hoarder. - http://timetestedtools.com

View teejk's profile

teejk

1205 posts in 1269 days


#15 posted 484 days ago

Elizabeth…Lumber Liq works just as well (I bought prefinished oak at 2.79 sq foot to frame out window returns…PITA because I was essentially making boards! but on the plus side they were prefinished with a very hard finish).

Again, the problems are 1) random lengths (some as short as 14” or so) 2) prefinished stuff you better like the color or prepare to remove it without sanding/planing 3) tongue and groove

On the plus side, it is usually very straight stuff (pro flooring guys don’t want to deal with problems in installation or call-backs…to tear out a board that they managed to nail down is not a pleasant task). And it is CHEAP on a relative basis if you don’t mind a little work.

And btw, those little “ribs” on the bottom come off very easy on the planer… I did my mud-room counter tops from leftover material and also use it for shop shelving.

showing 1 through 15 of 22 replies

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

GardenTenders.com :: gardening showcase