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Table saw binding on rips

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Forum topic by pendledad posted 525 days ago 892 views 0 times favorited 16 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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pendledad

189 posts in 714 days


525 days ago

With the splitter and guard in place, the ripping on my G1023rl seems to be off. As i start the cut it gets progressively more difficult to feed the wood. I checked the fence and it toes out a tiny bit at the back. I jointed the board so i know it was flat on the edge/face. The only thing i noticed was the splitter leans towards the fence a bit when the heavy guard is attached. The riving knife is perfectly aligned, so i am not going to make any adjustments to the alignment.

Could the splitter be bent? Should i bend it back?

Oh, almost forgot, the Infinity Super General is crazy. On the crosscuts i did there was no tear out and the finish was better than i do when sanding. Amazing blade … and quiet too … made a noticeable difference over the stock Grizzly blade.


16 replies so far

View Brandon's profile

Brandon

4138 posts in 1576 days


#1 posted 525 days ago

Is the wood closing the gap of the kerf? I’ve had maple that was so damn hard to cut because it would pinch the riving knife on its way out. Is your blade the standard .125?

-- "hold fast to that which is good"

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pendledad

189 posts in 714 days


#2 posted 525 days ago

The blade is the full kerf .125”. The wood is old dried out pine. The kerf did not seem to be reclosing, but i will definitely check that as the humidity yesterday was 100%. Thanks for the tip.e

View CharlieM1958's profile

CharlieM1958

15683 posts in 2843 days


#3 posted 525 days ago

Can you easily remove the guard and splitter to make a test cut without it? If it goes through easily, you’ll know where your problem lies.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

View pendledad's profile

pendledad

189 posts in 714 days


#4 posted 525 days ago

I could do a rip with the riving knife, that way I can guarantee the setup is in alignment. This saw terrifies me because I’ve never used anything with so much power. Given the binding, I’d be very scared to try a rip without something in place to stop a kick back.

I’ll try a rip tonight with the riving knife and see how it goes. The humidity has dropped from 100% to 20%, so the wood won’t be so swollen too.

Even though I’m having some setup issues, it feels good to be back in the shop making sawdust. I’m through with this awful winter.

View HorizontalMike's profile

HorizontalMike

6923 posts in 1538 days


#5 posted 525 days ago

IMO, sounds like you may need to adjust the fence for parallelism with the blade. Check your G-1023RL manual, p.59 Troubleshooting and p.67 for adjustment.

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

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HorizontalMike

6923 posts in 1538 days


#6 posted 525 days ago

BTW, I have bent the riving knife back to ‘correct’ position at least once. I do not use the stock ‘splitter’ since I use the riving knife and featherboard, however bending the stock splitter back to vertical may be a good thing.

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

View WannaBBetter's profile

WannaBBetter

62 posts in 1427 days


#7 posted 525 days ago

Sounds to me the blade isnt parrallel to the miter slot

-- I cut it three times and it's still too short

View RussellAP's profile

RussellAP

2944 posts in 911 days


#8 posted 525 days ago

Two things, measure the front and back of the blade to the fence, if it’s off, problem solved.
You mention your fear of this saw. Are you feeding the wood slowly and pushing it straight. I’ve noticed that if you feed slowly the blade will cut more of a path for itself and you’ll feel the kickback coming well before you encounter it. Also using a push stick on wider boards isn’t that great of an idea, it tends to put uneven pressure on the wood and can make it go left or right. I use the push stick for thin boards where my hand would come too close to the blade.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

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pendledad

189 posts in 714 days


#9 posted 525 days ago

I checked the blade with miter slots by using the combo square technique. Maybe I’ll borrow my dad’s digital indicator tonight and re-check that. I know it is close enough that my combo square was just rubbing in exactly the same spot at the front and back … but that still may be a few thousands more off than I would want.

I have another 55 degree day today, so I’ll be back out there all night working on this. I’ll read through the manual and go through all of the alignment and adjustment procedures.

Thanks for the replies.

View NiteWalker's profile

NiteWalker

2709 posts in 1201 days


#10 posted 525 days ago

I think it’s the riving knife. Make sure it’s square to the table.

-- He who dies with the most tools... dies with the emptiest wallet.

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pendledad

189 posts in 714 days


#11 posted 525 days ago

I could very well be the issue. I don’t have lots of hours behind a table saw, so my technique may be wrong. This is my ripping tecnique:

I use a Grip Tite featherboard to apply pressure down on the table & into the fence. This keeps my left hand clear away from the blade. My right hand feeds the wood consistently at a slow pace (not too slow, but slow enough to stay in control). My left hand is there for support to keep the wood down on the table as it goes into the featherboard. I have big hands, so during the cut setup I spread out my thumb and pinky … if my pinky can touch the fence and my thumb can touch the guard, then I use my push block. It is roughly 8-9” for my hand. I don’t like my push stick because it doesn’t apply downward pressure, I made a longer push block thing with a heel so I can get downward force too. I use my outfeed roller thing to support the wood as it exits the saw. It is always set up about 1/8” lower than the table to ensure it doesn’t interfere.

I’ve watched countless videos online of table saw techniques and read dozens of articles, so I feel like I have a solid approach. I understand that practice is key, so these issues I’m having may also be lack of experience.

I really need to take a look at the fence setup in more detail and make sure it is adjusted properly. I am going to get my dad’s precise measuring tools tonight and spend some time to see what the problem is. Thanks for the replies.

View RussellAP's profile

RussellAP

2944 posts in 911 days


#12 posted 525 days ago

The digital angle meters are great. They aren’t very expensive. I keep one on my TS all the time.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

View CharlieM1958's profile

CharlieM1958

15683 posts in 2843 days


#13 posted 525 days ago

As noted here, there are many possible causes for the problem you describe. Follow Occam’s Razor and check the simplest things first. The blade guard-splitter assembly is probably the flimsiest part of most saws, and easy to get bent or misaligned. That’s why I suggested a test cut with just the riving knife. If the problem persists, then move on to the more complicated possible solutions.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

View Rex B's profile

Rex B

310 posts in 875 days


#14 posted 525 days ago

I run a thin kerf blade on my G0715p, which is just barely wide enough to use with the riving knife. I was experiencing a bit of difficulty feeding even with the riving knife perfectly aligned. My solution was to use sandpaper to smooth out the riving knife then I coated it with paste wax to lube things up. It has helped my situation considerably.

I know you are using a full kerf blade, so this may not apply to you, but a bit of wax on the splitter can’t hurt anything and may take away some of the friction.

-- Rex

View pendledad's profile

pendledad

189 posts in 714 days


#15 posted 525 days ago

Good idea Rex. I have waxed almost all other areas, but I never thought about the splitter.

Has anyone also noticed the splitter/guard/pawls digging in to the plastic insert at the back of the throat plate? When I try to lower the blade with the guard/pawls, I have to lift the pawls otherwise they dig into the plastic insert and it will jam. I know the pawls are supposed to be sharp, but I don’t like having to hold them out of the way so I can lower my blade.

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