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V-Drum Sander Question

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Forum topic by Furnitude posted 504 days ago 1429 views 2 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Furnitude

328 posts in 2109 days


504 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: v-drum drum sander

I’m considering making a V-Drum Sander and I wanted to ask people who made them and used them over the last couple of years to describe their experience with them. The main thing I would use it for is flattening end grain cutting boards, but I don’t even know if this is possible on a V-Drum Sander. Please let me know your experience trying to do that. Also, after the excitement of making the sander was over, was it worth the time and money? Is it something you use as much as you thought you would? If you made one in the 18” to 24” range, do you find that you used that width? Or would the 12” sander work fine? Thanks for any information.
Mitch

-- Mitch, http://furnitude.blogspot.com


8 replies so far

View JesseTutt's profile

JesseTutt

795 posts in 712 days


#1 posted 504 days ago

I have the 24” v-drum sander from stockroom supply, which I bought as a fully assembled unit. This year I noticed that they thickened the metal top.

If I was going to design and build my own I would make a couple of changes.
1. I would increase the diameter of the drum
2. I would make the table top the equivalent of a zero clearance insert. So with the lowest grit sandpaper you plan to use there is no space between the top and the sandpaper when spinning.
3. I would increase the length of the table (infeed to outfeed).

If you plan to use a v-drum to flatten a piece of wood (or cutting board) you should be able to have the entire piece on the infeed table.

Realize that a v-drum sander is considered a “finish” sander, it does not take much off with each pass. I think I recall mine taking off around 3/1000s per pass. This can result in many passes to get a flat surface.

-- Jesse, Saint Louis, Missouri

View oldnovice's profile

oldnovice

3628 posts in 1970 days


#2 posted 504 days ago

I don’t have one but I have seen the Sandfea? I did find v-drum videos

And a review of the Sandflea from Sawmill Creek.

-- "I never met a board I didn't like!"

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TheDane

3658 posts in 2265 days


#3 posted 504 days ago

I have an 18” built from a Stockroom Supply kit (I bought one of their MDF tops).

It is not a thicknesser, but it can flatten pretty well. I use mine to flatten rings for segmented turnings as well as other sanding work.

-- Gerry -- "I don't plan to ever really grow up ... I'm just going to learn how to act in public!"

View Jim Finn's profile

Jim Finn

1641 posts in 1524 days


#4 posted 503 days ago

I have an 18” “V”sander from stockroom supply. I bought the kit and built my own box for it. I think it is overpriced for what you get. (No motor) I bought it to flatten chess boards and it did do the job, but took a long time. As mentioned, it is a finish sander not a shaping sander. I now use mine to flatten and smooth out the cut edges of cedar and oak boxes after I cut the tops off. It smooths out the saw marks. When using it you have to maintain an even speed over the drum to avoid ripples in the wood. I find that many quick passes work best for me.

-- In God We Trust

View Broglea's profile

Broglea

665 posts in 1693 days


#5 posted 503 days ago

I built my own. Had fun building it. Didn’t spend much money at all. After awhile I noticed I wasn’t using it all and it was taking up some space in the shop. I took it apart and haven’t regretted it since.

View jasoncarpentry's profile

jasoncarpentry

111 posts in 1256 days


#6 posted 503 days ago

I’m on what I hope is the home stretch of making my V-drum sander. The drum is 4” dia. x 14” long w/ a 1/2” steel rod going thru it. Treeman has helped me quite a lot, and I thank him for it.

I’m using (or trying to use) a 1/2 HP, 3600 RPM motor that I got from a Chinese-made grinder (which I think is a POS, as described below). I’ve been told that the drum should turn no faster than 1750 RPM, so I’ve got a 4” pulley on the drum and a 2” pulley on the motor. I got the belt from an auto-parts store; haven’t made the top yet, but I’ve got some nice 1-1/4” countertop material for that. But I’m having problems:

1) The pulley (for which I paid $14 at a reputable McMaster-Carr distributor) is a little too big for the motor shaft, so after just a couple of minutes of operation, the set screw works loose. So far, I’ve tried shimming it w/ cutouts from a soda can, then w/ Reynolds Wrap. No luck so far. Any suggestions? Maybe wrap the shaft w/ epoxy putty, let it harden, & file it down to where I get a snug fit? Or should I just epoxy the set screw in place?

2) During operation, the whole shebang vibrates & is noisier than I think it should be. Also, the belt moves in & out as if its diameter is constantly changing (does that make sense?). I may have it too tight; at rest, I can’t quite squeeze the two sides together.

So, Furnitude, I’m enjoying the challenge of making my own. But I’d appreciate some help from some of you mechanical types out there. I’m just a Chemical Engineer, so what the heck do I know about motors & such?!

-- Jim in Tennessee

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jasoncarpentry

111 posts in 1256 days


#7 posted 503 days ago

Here’s an explanation of my belt problems, from stockroomsupply.com:

“If you are using Linkbelt and Balanced pulleys, your motor will be able to run faster and therefore you will have a faster feed rate. If you are using a rubber belt, you must use pulleys at a 1:1 ratio, (both 1-1/2”) and the drum should be running at 1725 RPM. If you were to try to use 2 different sized pulleys with a rubber belt, the belt would take the shape of the larger pulley and in turn this would cause slippage. This is not a good thing if you are trying to sand something.”

So there you have it: I’ve gotta use equal-sized pulleys!

-- Jim in Tennessee

View Jim Finn's profile

Jim Finn

1641 posts in 1524 days


#8 posted 503 days ago

“So there you have it: I’ve gotta use equal-sized pulleys!”............or get a link belt for it. I would locktight the set screw in the pully.

-- In God We Trust

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