What tablesaw do you have

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Forum topic by GT350 posted 03-10-2013 03:57 PM 4244 views 0 times favorited 91 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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362 posts in 1947 days

03-10-2013 03:57 PM

There always seems to be a lot of talk about tablesaws so I am curious what tablesaws people have in their shops. Are you happy with it, how much hp, type of fence etc.. I’ll start it off, I have a 1970’s Craftsman contractor saw that I built a cabinet for and attach my dust collector to which works great. It is 14 amps which is what they say is 1.75 hp today, the power is good, I like the Craftsman Aluminum fence I put on several years ago, the blade guard comes off with just a thumbscrew which I like. I am going to replace it with a Sawstop PCS but the reason is accuracy so I figure if I’m getting a new saw it should be the Sawstop because if I ever have a bad accident I would be kicking myself forever. I’m not happy with dados that aren’t flat and the table insert doesn’t set exactly flat on the table.

91 replies so far

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

4903 posts in 3926 days

#1 posted 03-10-2013 04:14 PM

G0444Z Contractor saw w/ cast iron wings, Shop Fox mobile base, Shop Fox fence, Incra 1000SE miter gauge.
All I’ll ever need. I use specific blades for cuts as in rip, cross cut, etc. Blade poor, but the investment was worth the price.
Good saw, well set, good blades, dust collector…....What else does a feller need?


View darthford's profile


576 posts in 1889 days

#2 posted 03-10-2013 04:18 PM

PM 2000 3HP 52” fence

View knotscott's profile


7980 posts in 3341 days

#3 posted 03-10-2013 04:19 PM

2008 Shop Fox W1677 left tilt 3hp cabinet saw (it’s essentially a white Grizzly G1023SL):

I’ve added:
- BORK riving knife and blade guard
- Router table
- Jet Xacta II fence w/router table fence (slid right for 36” rip)
- Crosscut extension
- Osborne EB-3 miter gauge
- Wixey digital readout

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View needshave's profile


175 posts in 1925 days

#4 posted 03-10-2013 04:29 PM

I have a ‘87 unisaw that I purchased new, 52” fence with 6’ outfeed and 48” infeed. It has and remains an excellent machine. I also have a 1949 Unisaw, it was my fathers and also an excellent machine, no table extensions and the original fence, which still remains true. I also have a 1950-60’s craftsman with the double cast iron open fence that I use when I set up on site. I like old Iron. I use mine daily, I prefer old Iron.

Dado’s that do not have a flat bottom are typically the result of the blade quality, the blade stack or set up. I’m sure that would be the result of the performance of your craftsman. If that is what you mean, I could be misreading.

The table inserts are pretty much the same situation. Most have adjustment screws that assure it does set flush with the bed. Not sure what you have. Again, sorry if I misunderstood your statement regarding dado’s and inserts.

If your craftsman works great and the saw is set up the way you want it. Why replace it.

View PittsburghTim's profile


230 posts in 2287 days

#5 posted 03-10-2013 04:33 PM

18 year old Delta Contractor Saw with 30” Biesmeyer Fence. 1 1/2 HP with thin kerf Freud blade. Hoping to move up to a 3 HP cabinet saw at some point as it struggles with 8/4 stock and thicker.

-- She asked me, "Who are you going to please with that?" I said, "Me."

View Woodbum's profile


806 posts in 3031 days

#6 posted 03-10-2013 04:54 PM

Primary: Griz 1023RL with an Incra TS III fence, and 1000SE miter gauge. Backup: ‘85 Craftsman contractors with a Shop Fox fence and Incra 1000SE. Have a Woodpeckers PRLV2 lift and PC 7518 motor mounted in a router table on the primary.

-- "Now I'm just another old guy wearing funny clothes"

View GT350's profile


362 posts in 1947 days

#7 posted 03-10-2013 05:09 PM

This should be an interesting thread, to respond to needshave, I thought the same thing with the dado blade, the one I had was an old 6” craftsman that came with the saw. I bought a Freud 8” Super Dado and still the same problem. Anyway, I finally measured the arbor and the threads are .015 smaller than the flange that the first blade sits on which means if one chipper is up and one down it can be .030 off which is very noticable. The table insert is just a little thicker on the screw end than the table relief, not much, but just throws my angles off a little bit. Thanks for the suggestions.

View HorizontalMike's profile


7749 posts in 2879 days

#8 posted 03-10-2013 05:35 PM

Grizzly G0690 3hp cabinet saw with cast iron router extension. A Triton 3 1/4hp router, a SuperSled, Yellow Board Buddies, and riving knife as standard equipment.

My show-off picture… ;-)

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

View needshave's profile


175 posts in 1925 days

#9 posted 03-10-2013 05:37 PM


did you ever use the moulding shaping head that Craftsman sold for many years? It has a arbor sleeve that slides over the arbor and the moulding head would slide onto or over it. I used it one time on the craftsman, because I had a larger bore dado stack, it worked well, It ran true and I had no problems with it. Not sure if that is any value to you at this point, But though I would through it out for what it’s worth.

My insert plate must be different than yours. My insert plate has four set screws adjustable from the top side that provides plenty of adjustment. When fully retracted and not setting on the set screws, the plate is .06 below the table top. My saw is pretty old, so I’m sure many things have changed and this may not be the original insert plate either.

I need to measure the craftsman arbor, so I know as well. I may have the same problem and not know it.

Regardless, thanks for your comments.

View Cosmicsniper's profile


2202 posts in 3124 days

#10 posted 03-10-2013 05:42 PM

1993 Unisaw. 3 hp, right tilting. Incra TSLS fence (with joinery package) and Incra 1000HD miter gauge with Miter Express sled. Bench Dog Cast Iron router extension wing on left side with Milwaukee 5625 router, Woodpeckers PRLv2 lift, and Rockler dust enclosure.

Love it!

-- jay,

View Loren's profile


10262 posts in 3613 days

#11 posted 03-10-2013 05:44 PM

The way many pros get flat bottom dados is with a
panel router. You can get special bits from Her-Saf
that feed faster than regular router bits.

One problem with getting flat bottom dados on
the table saw is that it’s difficult to position
a hold-down directly over the top of the dado
blade, where the pressure is most useful.

All I’m saying is that a finer table saw won’t
guarantee dados of consistent depth.

You can however cut dados on the table
saw and use a dado clean out bit on a router
to clean them up to consistent depth real

View ShaneA's profile


6909 posts in 2564 days

#12 posted 03-10-2013 05:44 PM

Ridgid 3650

View GT350's profile


362 posts in 1947 days

#13 posted 03-10-2013 05:48 PM

I never saw or needed the moulding head cutter. I tried to adjust my insert but it is also warped a little (just slightly) in the center. HorizontalMike, nice setup, I wish my shop could be set up so I could have a router table on my saw, it would sure save space.

View SamuraiSaw's profile


515 posts in 1930 days

#14 posted 03-10-2013 05:48 PM

I have a PM2000.

I had the same Craftsman (actually 3) for many years. You hit the nail on the head with the arbor being the problem with your dados. That problem will go away when you get a cabinet saw.

-- Artisan Woodworks of Texas....

View distrbd's profile


2252 posts in 2412 days

#15 posted 03-10-2013 05:50 PM

I have an old Rockwell/Beaver 34-050 with a Biesmeyer fence ,1 hp motor,and it is more than adequate for my hobby would be a luxury to own a G0690 like Mike’s but I use the band saw,miter saw and circular saw more often than my TS.

-- Ken from Ontario, Canada

showing 1 through 15 of 91 replies

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