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| Forum topic by BrianC87 | posted 74 days ago | 511 views | 0 times favorited | 12 replies | ![]() |
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74 days ago |
I was trying to use a roundover bit in my router earlier today only to find that the hole in my sub base was too small. Searching google didn’t give me the results I was looking for so I figured I would try here. I have a Craftsman model 2768 fixed base router and am wondering where I would be able to find different sub bases with larger holes to accept different sized profiles of bits. Or would it be easier/better to just make my own? What is the best way to go about doing that? Thanks in advance for all your help! |
12 replies so far
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#1 posted 74 days ago |
Can you put the router in a vise or clamp it down . if your comfortable, you can turn the router on and slide the base onto the bit and it will cut out what it needs….Safety first.. -- Bueno...Nacho.. |
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#2 posted 74 days ago |
Base plates are pretty easy to make. Use your original base plate as the template for the 3 mounting holes to the router base. Bore the hole the size you need for your bits…. -- Measure "at least" twice and cut once |
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#3 posted 74 days ago |
widdle – I had thought about doing that but I’d like to keep the original sub base intact as it is. kdc68 – I kind of figured that would be the best way to do it. What would material would you suggest making them out of? |
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#4 posted 74 days ago |
I bought one at ACE hardware. I don’t remember the brand but it is something you will recognize. They are universal in many cases. About $15 with screws etc. |
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#5 posted 74 days ago |
MDF. I also have a craftsman router (the professional model, I love that thing). Technically, that bit is a little too large to be using safely freehand. The reason they keep the holes small on the sub bases is because with a bit over 1 1/4” diameter, you should really have the router in the table. With that said, I prefer to edge profile freehand. Milescraft makes universal sub bases with larger openings that fit craftsman routers. I have a few. I used MDF for the first one, but no matter how much I sanded/waxed it, I couldn’t get it to slide as smooth as lexan. |
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#6 posted 74 days ago |
widdle’s idea might be a bit dangerous and would probably trash your original base plate….just my opinion…something flat and smooth like MDF…1/4” or 1/2” thick for example….thats what I have used and didn’t have to spend $$ because I had small scrap pieces in the shop -- Measure "at least" twice and cut once |
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#7 posted 74 days ago |
Thanks for the suggestions everyone! I’ll definitely have to try making some with MDF and take a look at Ace Hardware and/or the Milescraft universal sub bases. |
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#8 posted 74 days ago |
You can also make a new sub-base out of 1/4” plywood or 3/16” Hardboard. I’ve made at least 3 so if I break one, I’ve got another. If you DO go with wood, I would cut some extra “viewing holes” in it. -- A lack of money forces you to find creative solutions to problems you wouldn't have otherwise. |
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#9 posted 74 days ago |
Easy to make out of 1/4” MDF. Carefully align the screw holes and drill a center hole w/ a Forstner bit. -- Bondo Gaposis |
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#10 posted 74 days ago |
If you can find a shop that fabricates acrylic displays they might sell or give you scraps. The paper that protects the face of the sheet has a limited useful life. If you wait over a year or so it becomes very difficult to remove. So the scrap pile has an expiration date on it. 1/4” acrylic is plenty for a router base like you need. I have double face taped the original baseplate to the new one to drill the screw holes accurately. Use a drill press to keep the holes straight. -- Fine Custom Woodwork since 1978 |
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#11 posted 73 days ago |
I use laminate flooring for router bases and also for table saw inserts. |
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#12 posted 73 days ago |
¼” Acrylic works great for router sub bases. -- Save lives, ease suffering, reduce morbidity and mortality, stomp out pestilence and disease, postpone the inevitable, and fake compassion. The Paramedics Creed |
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