dry sharpening system?

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Forum topic by 12strings posted 03-09-2013 12:49 AM 766 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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434 posts in 2382 days

03-09-2013 12:49 AM

Does anyone have a dry sharpening system that works well and gives a nice edge?

Dry meaning no water, no oil, just a plan iron and some surface?

Or is the lubricant so necessary that you just won’t get good results without making a mess?

-- I'm strictly hand-tool only...unless the power tool is faster and easier!

9 replies so far

View bondogaposis's profile


4727 posts in 2349 days

#1 posted 03-09-2013 01:08 AM

Well generally a lubricant makes it go faster, by floating away the swarf and keeping the grit from getting fouled. Not sure why you want to avoid it.

-- Bondo Gaposis

View nwbusa's profile


1021 posts in 2284 days

#2 posted 03-09-2013 01:12 AM

I use some of my DMT diamond plates without water. Usually up to 1200, I go dry. For the 4000 and 8000 I use a bit of water or diluted dish soap to ease the process.

-- John, BC, Canada

View Ron Harper's profile

Ron Harper

133 posts in 1914 days

#3 posted 03-09-2013 01:22 AM

Most guys do “scary sharp” dry

-- Ron in Kokomo

View 12strings's profile


434 posts in 2382 days

#4 posted 03-09-2013 03:04 AM

I just think the water makes a mess, and take more time than say, you’re working with a chisel, it needs honing, so you turn around, rub it on something (Rock, Diamond, or sandpaper) for 15-30 seconds, and then get back to work, with no cleanup needed…If That were possible, it’d be great.

I have used sandpaper in the past, but it wears out so quickly that changing the paper out negates any time saved from clean-up.

-- I'm strictly hand-tool only...unless the power tool is faster and easier!

View DKV's profile


3940 posts in 2502 days

#5 posted 03-09-2013 03:28 AM

Use water and get the wife to clean up the mess. Come on…think man!

-- This is a Troll Free zone.

View Craftsman on the lake's profile

Craftsman on the lake

2790 posts in 3435 days

#6 posted 03-09-2013 03:36 AM

worksharp 3000. Does it for me.

-- The smell of wood, coffee in the cup, the wife let's me do my thing, the lake is peaceful.

View MonteCristo's profile


2099 posts in 2186 days

#7 posted 03-09-2013 03:57 AM

Not only does sandpaper wear out quickly, it’s a lot more expensive way to go. I had Lee Valley’s original dry powered system but realized the high price was just the beginning, so I unloaded it.

-- Dwight - "Free legal advice available - contact Dewey, Cheetam & Howe""

View Benvolio's profile


148 posts in 1929 days

#8 posted 03-09-2013 10:19 PM

I think I heard somewhere that brown paper (the type shops in the USA use to pack groceries, and in the UK we’d pack up evacuee children in the second world war) can be used for final stropping. I think Someone said it’s the equivalent of an 8000 stone or a 3000 paper.

Can anyone confirm or deny this??

It would certainly help me as I’m currently trying to convince my wife to let me buy ``that final waterstone``

-- Ben, England.

View Benvolio's profile


148 posts in 1929 days

#9 posted 03-09-2013 10:20 PM

oh, and 12strings – have you considered stopping compounds?? It’s still a `messy` way to go but afaik it’s cheap and you won’t have to fight the swarf.

-- Ben, England.

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