Question on using a block plane

sounds dull. even if it’s new, it will need to be honed.

-- Tim -- http://tmuli.com

I second what Tim said. Give it a good honing (including the back) first. Search the site here or on the web if you need guidance with sharpening.

Another thought, David – do you know how to read the wood’s grain and to be sure to plane with the grain?

Welcome to LumberJocks! I’m a newbie as well (only been doing hand tools stuff for about a year), and have learned a lot here.

-- Eric at http://adventuresinwoodworking.com

Thanks, Eric and Tim. Yes, I amgoing with the grain but I will also be planing some cross grain and down to the end grain. I am trying to round the face of a 1/2” board down by about 1/8 on the sides and graduate up to the top. I can’t really pull off this feat right now but working will help me learn.

-- DavidP

There is an article in the October issue of Popular Woodworking on this topic – “Taming Handplane Tear-out”, that might help.

-- Rich, Seattle, WA

If you are using the plane straight out of the box – then the blade is dull. Yes, the blade could still cut flesh – and that is sharp to a point, but not sharp enough for what you want to do. Tim and Eric are right—give the blade a good sharpening and try again.

-- Betsy - GO BUCKS!

5 people didnt agree that you are stupid….....which is what you sorta asked

what are the odds all 5 are wrong?

you have to spend some serious change to buy planes that are “ready to shave”

-- http://www.furnituremann.ca/

Less than 1/32” is a HUGE amount. Unless you’re way less than 1/32 I’d expect nothing but tearout even if the blade is sharp. Turn the plane upside down and take a scrap stick around 6” long. Keep adjusting until you can run that stick over the blade and peel off full length paper thin edge shavings, and also check the lateral adjustment by making sure you’re getting the same cut on both sides of the iron. Then if you still feel you want a thicker cut, start sneaking up on it slow. You can also reduce tearout some by skewing the plane at an angle rather than going straight with the grain.

-- Use the fence Luke

I agree with Doug S…...............1/32 is waaaaay too much. You should produce shavings that are almost transparent they are so thin. very few planes come sharp…..even Lie Nielson ?........need to be honed

-- http://www.furnituremann.ca/

If you haven’t done initial tune up of the block plane then you are not going to have satisfactory results. If you haven’t already you need to lap the sole of the plane. 220 wet/dry on a sheet of glass until you have even scratches across the entire sole once there work it to 800 grit wet/dry. This will take a good while like 1 hour or so (it really depends upon the plane). Once that is done you will need to sharpen the blade. Start with the back then work on the bevel, once again search LJ’s and you will find a lot on the topic. Now you are ready to setup the plane for use. Turn it upside down look across the sole from toe to heel up at light source and slowly let the blade out, once you see it brake through the mouth stop and make sure the blade is square to the mouth using the lateral adjustment. If the mouth is adjustable open it by about a ~32nd, and test you should get a nice clean shaving. Hope this helps.

-- //FC - Round Rock, TX - "Experience is what you get just after you need it"

Maybe I can get an answer to a question of my own. Isn’t a block plane for endgrain and a bench blain for longgrain? If so, do you need to plane “with the grain” with a block plane?

HokieMojo

I a not an expert on hand planes. I have been working though the learning curve of the block plane and a Groz #4 1/2 Soothing plane. My low angle block plane is basically at a 42 degree angle and can be used for long grain, I use it all the time to remove saw blade marks from thin strips of wood. I do have to be careful as it is prone to tear out though. Honestly I have had the least amount of luck with end grain, but that is probably just me. Now a smoothing plane is used for long grain and works very well if the blade is extremely sharp.

-- //FC - Round Rock, TX - "Experience is what you get just after you need it"

birdman,

One other thing as your steel is new it was dull quickly, so frequent resharpening is needed. Now the question is when is frequent. If things seem to be working and then stop (you dig in or chatter) first check to make sure your setup hasn’t changed and if it hasn’t or that still doesn’t work you will need to touch up the blade. This shouldn’t take to long.

-- //FC - Round Rock, TX - "Experience is what you get just after you need it"

Hand planes take some technique, and a lot of setup to get them to work well, and once they do, you’ll LOVE to use them.

I would make 2 recommendations.

1. Learn how to sharpen it/ set it up correctly.

2. Once you’ve set it up, ALWAYS take a swipe on a scrap piece first to make sure it’s set. Otherwise you risk gouging a piece on the corner, taking too deep of a cut, etc.

-- When my wife ask's what I have to show for my wood working hobby, I just show her the splinters.

A word about block planes and end grain. For planing end grain, you’ll want to use a low angle block plane like a Stanley 60 1/2 or Stanley 65. The blade is at about 12 degrees and when combined with the blade bevel angle, is lower than a standard block plane like a Stanley 9 1/2 or 220.
I’m not sure what other makers numbers are, as all I have are old Stanleys, but sharpness is critical and depth of cut should be minimal. I start by using a scrap and running down it without the blade cutting at all and keep doing that while turning the depth adjuster just a touch with each new pass until I get to where I like the cut. -SST

-- Accuracy is not in your power tool, it's in you

Nice tip SST!

-- //FC - Round Rock, TX - "Experience is what you get just after you need it"

This post has lingered in mind the past 24 hrs., I questioned if any reply I could make would be of help or answer the proposed question. My $0.02—While at HD I looked at the 2 BB’s offered($20, like 9-1/2 but non adj mouth & $11, like 120) I only looked at the $20 one out of package. The mouth was hugh, +/- 3/8, which could contribute to excess blade advance, other that the plane was what one expects to find in a $20 plane.
All of the above posts contain proper and sound advice that is needed for proper setup and care a block plane requires. My concern as a new plane user, this plane my require in depth and advanced fetteling to “get it up to snuff”. Buck Bros. are not currently held in the highest of regard for their tool quality. Perhaps an newer stanley low angle(Lowes carries these) or an older E-bay plane,(601/2) may ease the learning process of proper setup. I fear your current plane will only frustrate and discourage your appreciation of the block plane. When properly tuned, they will amaze and impress any one new to their limitless potential. Amongst the most used and relied upon tools in my shop. Search for and study the various web sites offering info also, there are tons. The higher end LN and LV +/-$150 are closest to out of the box ready to go, if within budget and only want to buy tools once, these are your answer. Any well made, proper tuned and sharpened plane will suit your needs. Some are just more accepting of the process.

-- Ciao, gth.

That’s a good point on the tool quality. I believe that most planes (personal opinion only, folks) from the big box stores that sell for $20 – $30 are probably a waste of money. For $5 – $10 on ebay you can get a nice Stanley 220 which, while not their best plane, can be tuned to do great work. At that price, it’s better than lots of new ones you might find. I use mine a lot.

I’ve gotten a couple of nice low angle Stanleys for around $30 – $40. They’re worth every penny. Before you shop, however, watch for awhile and get familiar with condition and going rate. The low angle ones, for example, often have hairline cracks in the throat. Those must be avoided.
Just a word on tuning, here. I believe the best thing you can do before actually using a plane on a project is to spend some time getting familiar with it by learning to sharpen and hone it, and then making a lot of shavings with scrap wood to get a feel for it. The more you play, the more you’ll appreciate it.
If I could figure out how to put a link in here, I’d put in “Patrick’s Blood & gore”. It’s a great resource for Stanley planes. If you Google it and also Millers Falls planes, you can learn a bunch. -SST

-- Accuracy is not in your power tool, it's in you

1/32 is a huge amount… you only need to expose about 1 thousands or so. Give it a good honing, then follow some of the advice that is on this post and bbqkings post about planes and setup. You’ll plow thru shavings that you can see thru, with no chatter.

I have a little block plane in my shop that is used all the time, it’s my favorite. If you keep yours sharp, and learn how to set it up correctly, you’ll reach for it every time. It’ll bring you years of enjoyment.

-- As iron sharpens iron, so one man sharpens another. (Proverbs 27:17)