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Forum topic by TheBryan posted 03-08-2013 08:22 AM 1128 views 0 times favorited 26 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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TheBryan

11 posts in 566 days


03-08-2013 08:22 AM

Topic tags/keywords: tablesaw saw blade ridgid r4512

I am picking up my new Ridgid r4512 table saw this weekend. I have seen mixed reviews, however most seem to mention the stock blade that comes with it is the least desirable element to it.
So, my question is, which blades do y’all recommend? I need something versatile as I will be cutting Hardwoods, MDF and most types of plywood; ripping and crosscutting all. Also hoping to get some input on a good set of Dado blades.
All input is welcome!
(I apologize now as I am sure this topic has been covered 500 times)


26 replies so far

View Gerry's profile

Gerry

253 posts in 1894 days


#1 posted 03-08-2013 08:47 AM

IMHO, a good place to start is the Freud thin kerf blades. I own a Ridgid TS 3650. As your saw is 110 volt,too, the thin kerf blades do a good job and present less resistance to a cut than the full kerf variety. Depending on your needs, my experiences with either a 40 tooth combination blade or a 60 tooth cross cut blade have been good. That said, the gold standard of table saw blades has been the Woodworker II from Forrest. Just a bit more expensive than the Freuds, but a better blade. Hope this is of help.

-- -Gerry, Hereford, AZ ” A really good woodworker knows how the hide his / her mistakes.”

View b2rtch's profile

b2rtch

4326 posts in 1702 days


#2 posted 03-08-2013 10:49 AM

+1 for Gery , look also at the Irwin Maples at Lowes.
Because of what you say when you wan to cut, either buy a 32 ot so teeth rip blade and a 60 or 80 fine teeth bald or buy a 50 teeth combination blade. the Irwin combination blade has been review here:
http://lumberjocks.com/reviews/product/2872
http://lumberjocks.com/reviews/2934

The Freud blades have been review countless time , the are excellent especially for the price

knotscott, wrote and excellent introduction to saw blades, read it and you will know everything you need to know about saw blades:
http://lumberjocks.com/knotscott/blog/12395

I Hope this helps

-- Bert

View Woodbum's profile

Woodbum

438 posts in 1719 days


#3 posted 03-08-2013 01:12 PM

I agree with Gerry on the Forrest WWII being the standard by which all others are judged for combination blades. For your saw I would get the thin kerf 3/32” 40T WWII. Be sure to buy a blade stiffener too, as the thin blades tend to have more deflection. Spendy? sure, but they are a better value and have a lower cost of ownership with more and better carbide on the teeth. Forrest resharpening, when finally needed is fast, cheap and makes the blade like brand new again. I have used Freud, Systematic, Tenryu and others, all which were very good blades but overwhelmingly still prefer Forrest products. Their dado sets are great, but a little too high in my opinion. I saved my money for one and have never regretted it. When you get ready for a dedicated rip blade for heavy duty large volume ripping, Forrest has some choices too. They are kinda hard to find on the website, but they are there. Finally, another plus…they are a family owned US company from NJ. I have called for advice and info, and actualy talked to one of the Forrest family, so they are active, not absentee owners. IMHO, spend a little more upfront, and your replacement budget for TS blades goes to nearly nothing. You can get them via their website, and I think
some Woodcraft stores carry them in stock.

http://www.forrestblades.com/
http://www.forrestsawbladesonline.com/
Don’t apologize. Lots of topics are covered multiple times, some ad nauseum. Always happy to toss in my two cents worth if it will help somebody. I wish I would have had LJs or even a computer when I started woodworking ! IBM desktops were just coming out…with DOS commands! I’m a real geezer. Hope this opinion aids you in your buying decision.

Bob

-- Improvidus, Apto quod Victum-- Improvise, Adapt, Overcome

View b2rtch's profile

b2rtch

4326 posts in 1702 days


#4 posted 03-08-2013 01:32 PM

My opinion is that Forrest blades, even very good, are just too expensive.
Freud blades are excellent blades at a fraction of the price.
I never buy a brand but value, certainly Freud blades are a much better value.

-- Bert

View Woodbum's profile

Woodbum

438 posts in 1719 days


#5 posted 03-08-2013 01:48 PM

TheBryan: This is why woodworkers are a great bunch. We all have closely held opinions that we have formulated from our own personal experience and needs. Our choices that we make in equipment, materials, project design, and execution are based on what we believe is right for each us at that particular point in time. You will see “dueling opinions’ here on LJs. Nobody is wrong, we are all right for each of us. Bert and I have our opinions, and even though we may not agree on TS blades, there is probably a lot that we do agree on. That is why is is so great to live in the USA…choices, and the freedom to make them as we see fit. Good luck, work safely and have fun

-- Improvidus, Apto quod Victum-- Improvise, Adapt, Overcome

View pj1's profile

pj1

9 posts in 588 days


#6 posted 03-08-2013 03:07 PM

I purchased that same R4512 just last week and went ahead and put a Forrest WWII thin kerf 40 T on it. I haven’t had a lot of time on it but just last night I ripped through 8/4 hard maple and purple heart without any issues at all. I will be attempting crosscuts today and will let you know how it goes

View b2rtch's profile

b2rtch

4326 posts in 1702 days


#7 posted 03-08-2013 03:18 PM

Woodbum, you are a very gracious man,thank you.

Another thing to consider is : what to do with your blades.
If I ruin a Freud blade by cutting a nail, it cost me far less money than if I ruin a Forrest blade.
I use a lot of pallet and crate wood.
I use a metal detector, yet sometime I miss a nail or a screw and I ruin the blade.

-- Bert

View JSB's profile

JSB

683 posts in 732 days


#8 posted 03-08-2013 03:32 PM

I have the Lowes version of that saw, the Porter-Cable. The biggest difference is color. Everything else is close to the same.

My stock blade has a wobble in it. Don’t throw it away by any means. I use this blade for cutting dirty wood or wood that my have a staple or brad nail in it.

I used to use Freud Avani blades. They were a good quality blade until they started manufacturing them in China. Quality has gone waaaaaaaaaay down. It seems like any China blade I try makes me wish I had something else.

I picked up an Irwin Marples 50T combination blade for $39. Probably the best blade I have cut with. Also note that I refuse to spend over $100 on a table saw blade. Bad investment if you ask me. My Marples blade cuts great and leaves a really smooth surface. Save the money you would otherwise spend on a Forrest and buy a quality zero clearance insert plate. It is extremely difficult to make a strong zero clearance insert for these saws.

Whatever blade you choose I would recommend not getting a fine tooth blade. A decent combination blade that is clean will produce great crosscuts with a lot less strain on your motor. And you can make rip cuts with it as well so there is no need in switching blades for certain operations.

My vote: Irwin Marples 50T combination blade. Worth a lot more than the asking price.

-- Jay - http://www.jayscustomcreations.com or http://www.woodworkingwithsketchup.com

View Matt Przybylski's profile

Matt Przybylski

448 posts in 1031 days


#9 posted 03-08-2013 03:34 PM

I have the R4512 and based on input I purchased the Forrest woodworker II initially (full kerf, before TK was available). I was ripping hard maple and smoke was coming out :) I purchased a Freud 24T ripping blade (FK) and it was magical. I then got the Irwin Marples 80T (it’s TK) for cross cuts and more magic. I have since switched to a Freud TK ripper as well (though have not used it yet but the FK blades IMO aren’t too good on that saw because its a bit underpowered). I don’t use a stabilizer and I don’t use the WWII anymore. Just my two cents.

-- Matt, Illinois, http://www.reintroducing.com

View b2rtch's profile

b2rtch

4326 posts in 1702 days


#10 posted 03-08-2013 03:44 PM

+1 for Irwin Marples 50T .
I use to switch back and forth betwixt Freud ripping and fine teeth blades, not anymore I use the Irwin Marples 50T for everything.
I make my own zero clearance insert, they are not difficult to make as long as you have a smaller diameter blade to start the cut in them.
I use my 8” dado blade for that.

-- Bert

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5455 posts in 2029 days


#11 posted 03-08-2013 05:08 PM

Freud no longer makes the Avanti series….AFAIK someone else is making them in China. Country of origin aside, the Avanti/Avanti Pro blades are no longer decent blades that are suitable for woodworking IMO. If it actually says “Freud” on the blade, it’ll be made in Italy and is a good bet if you choose a blade type suitable for your situation.

I’d also consider blades from Infinity, Forrest, Ridge Carbide, Tenryu, Irwin Marples, CMT, Guhdo, Amana, and DeWalt Precision Trim.

I’d avoid Avanti/Avanti Pro, Skil, Vermont America, Workforce, Ryobi, HF, Irwin Marathon, Oldham Contractor, DeWalt Construction, and other off name or poor quality blades.

The Delta/DeWalt 7670 set is one of the best performers near the $100 mark…a taste of the premium sets for about half the price, and comes with a very nice case, and good shim stock. The Infinity Dadonator is the best overall performer I’ve used to date….~ $180 on sale.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View aaroncgi's profile

aaroncgi

33 posts in 630 days


#12 posted 03-08-2013 05:50 PM

I’m using a CMT P10050 combination blade and a Freud Diablo D1024X ripping blade in my R4512. This works great for me so far, at a total cost of about $60 for both.

-- Aaron

View TheBryan's profile

TheBryan

11 posts in 566 days


#13 posted 03-09-2013 03:20 AM

Thanks for te input everyone, just flipped the switch for the first time, I’ll run some wood tomorrow.
Has anyone convert the motor to run 220v? Instructions are in the manual. Curious as to any difference I would see

View DKV's profile (online now)

DKV

3136 posts in 1158 days


#14 posted 03-09-2013 03:25 AM

TheBry…doesn’t anyone on this site make their own decisions? Do you all have to clear it with the site before purchasing anything?

-- My bad, 2015 is the correct year...

View Tomj's profile

Tomj

204 posts in 1035 days


#15 posted 03-09-2013 04:37 AM

I have the r4512 myself and although I have a Frued thin kerf combination blade on there right now ( a good value), I have one of the Marples blades on my miter saw and I have to say I’m a fan and will be buying the Marples combination blade soon for my table saw.

showing 1 through 15 of 26 replies

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