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Forum topic by Vodo posted 408 days ago 680 views 1 time favorited 18 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Vodo

16 posts in 503 days


408 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: question chisel sharpening

I am about to the point where I will need to get a long-term sharpening system in place for chisels, planes, and if I can – knives and jointer knives.

I have been poking around, and I really like this honing guide:

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?cat=1,43072,43078&p=51868

And I’m thinking of getting this system rather than spend $500-700 on shapton stones and a DMT Lapping plate:

http://www.amazon.com/Work-Sharp-WS3000-Wood-Sharpener/dp/B000PVHIMW/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=17YCPUCYFWARQ&coliid=I2Q012SZJFXGYZ

Does have any one have either one of these (or both) and what do you think of the combo?

Thanks woodies!

-- AKA vodo. I belong in a blue state.


18 replies so far

View nwbusa's profile

nwbusa

1015 posts in 788 days


#1 posted 408 days ago

Absolutely yes on the Veritas honing guide, it is a great product.

I use mine with DMT plates, from 220 all the way up to 8000. It works very well for my needs. Haven’t used the Worksharp system so will leave others to comment there.

-- John, BC, Canada

View frosty50's profile

frosty50

25 posts in 849 days


#2 posted 408 days ago

Have both and use them. Use the WS3000 to get them sharpened, then use the honing guide for back bevel. I’ve started to buy regular size sanding paper and use 3M adhesive to adhere to the glass discs as I am a cheap skate. Them I just trim them up with a razor knife. My chisels and plane blades are honed to fine edge, and this is quick and easy to do using both of them. I’ve haven’t tried it for my planer or jointer yet as the are cutting well. Recommend both.

-- frosty

View toolie's profile

toolie

1684 posts in 1130 days


#3 posted 408 days ago

woodsmith did a feature on a sandpaper based sharpening system that adhered 6 different grits of sandpaper (2 dry papers that were 80 and 120 grit with 4 progressively finer grits of wet/dry paper) to a piece of plate glass backed by plywood. a honing guide ($10 on sale now at woodcraft) completed the package. inexpensive and effective.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View paratrooper34's profile

paratrooper34

760 posts in 1453 days


#4 posted 408 days ago

I have both as well. The Veritas honing guide is awesome, will always use that for honing. I use the WS 3000 for lapping the backs of blades but mostly I keep the leather strop plate on it and strop blades when I am working to keep them sharp. It works great for that.

-- Mike

View camps764's profile

camps764

666 posts in 861 days


#5 posted 408 days ago

I have one of the cheap-o honing guides and it works really well for my plane blades.

It doesn’t work very well for my chisels. The bevels on it tend to hold the chisel at a weird angle, making it difficult to get consistent results.

The cheap guide has done me right so far, but when I get some money I will be upgrading to the Veritas guide -

an LJ named BigRedKnothead just did a write up about sharpening that you will find interesting.

-- Steve

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DIYaholic

11242 posts in 1177 days


#6 posted 408 days ago

I have the WS 3000 and love it!!!

Check out the Stumpy Nubs Store for plans for a WS 3000 work Station.

I have the plans, but haven’t had the time to build it yet. But I will be building it!!!

-- Randy-- I may not be good...but I am slow! If good things come to those who wait.... Why is procratination a bad thing?

View Vodo's profile

Vodo

16 posts in 503 days


#7 posted 407 days ago

Thanks for the comments so far. I have seen that Stumpy Nubs vid on the WS3000 workstation. That is kinda why I was thinking of that WS3000 so far.

I am thinking right now that this might be a good start for me, and then maybe later pick up some waterstones later when I am working more and more with hand tools and planes. My thought is that for $200 for the WS (less if I can find a sale) and $70 for the Veritas MK II, that would be a good value for my money for now. I’m still just beginning.

-- AKA vodo. I belong in a blue state.

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

1475 posts in 995 days


#8 posted 407 days ago

I have the WS 3000, and I also have a Tormek, and a Jet knockoff of the Tormek. The WS is so good I’m considering selling one of my wet wheels. In all honesty the wet wheels, with the right jig, will sharpen everything but sandpaper. The WS will do a lot of stuff but it might be a little tough to do, for example, some lathe chisels. But it’s still the best buy in power sharpeners and may well be the only one you’ll ever need. They have added a tool rest that allows the use of Tormek jugs, so maybe it can do the lathe chisels now as well. I highly recommend it.

-- I long for the days when Coke was a cola, and a joint was a bad place to be (Merle Haggard)

View BigMig's profile

BigMig

234 posts in 1115 days


#9 posted 407 days ago

I also use the Veritas honing guide ans it’s great both for plane irons and chisels of all widths. And like NWBUSA, I use DMT plates adn get very good results – and no soaking, no flattening, etc. It’s working well for me.

-- Mike from Lansdowne, PA

View Richard's profile

Richard

400 posts in 1193 days


#10 posted 407 days ago

There are fans of both systems here. I tried the WS2000 and was very unhappy with the results. I highly recommend the MKII.

Granted, I have as much invested in water stones as a new WS3000 would cost, but the level of control and consistency of results is far beyond anything I could get with the WS. And I never have to worry about ruining the temper on my irons.

-- "It ain't what you don't know that gets you into trouble. It's what you know for sure that just ain't so." - Mark Twain

View Mosquito's profile

Mosquito

4094 posts in 794 days


#11 posted 407 days ago

not to mention you have to buy abrasive paper on top of the worksharp anyway

-- Mos - Twin Cities, MN -- Stanley #45 Evangelist - www.youtube.com/MosquitoMods

View MaroonGoon's profile

MaroonGoon

280 posts in 460 days


#12 posted 407 days ago

heres the blog entry camps was referring to. it has been of great help to me I recommend it also.

http://lumberjocks.com/BigRedKnothead/blog/34842

-- "Only put off until tomorrow what you are willing to die having left undone." -- Pablo Picasso

View chrisstef's profile

chrisstef

9369 posts in 1508 days


#13 posted 407 days ago

I use the WS3000 for the initial honing of my plane irons and chisels with paper from Klingspor. Their sandpaper lasts much much longer that that supplied with the WS. The only problem is that Klingspor only stocks up to 600 grit, maybe 400, i cant remember. From there ill stick on my own 1000 and1500 then move to an 8k DMT stone, then strop. Its my little system and it works pretty well for me. You’ll no doubt spend time and money in fiinding a system that works for you but the WS is a good start and will yeild good results.

-- "there aren’t many hand tools as awe-inspiring as the #8 jointer. I mean, it just reeks of cast iron heft and hubris" - Smitty

View shampeon's profile

shampeon

1071 posts in 685 days


#14 posted 407 days ago

I use the WS3000 with an extra glass wheel and the leather stropping wheel. I hand hone on the leather to touch up. No complaints at all, and it’s great for rehabbing old chisels and plane irons.

Get some 3M spray adhesive and sheets of good wet/dry sandpaper, and you’ll save a lot of money. Oh, and I put some magnets on the side of the Worksharp to help control the iron particles.

-- ian | "You can't stop what's coming. It ain't all waiting on you. That's vanity."

View J. Crate Larkin's profile

J. Crate Larkin

19 posts in 434 days


#15 posted 407 days ago

Norton makes some perfectly hard, usable and affordable water stones if you are worried about cost. And in thirty years I have never owned diamond lapping plate; one can get by with some wet/dry sandpaper on a sheet of glass for flattening. You should be able to get by with the Veritas honing guide, 220, 1000, 4000 and 8000 grit stones and a slow-speed grinder or sandpaper for establishing primary bevels.

Someone gave me a Mark II honing guide last year, before that I had always sharpened by hand but I have lately taken to using it for lapping in order to get consistent results when I don’t feel like putting a lot of thought into lapping a blade’s secondary bevel, so the sharpening jig is a good thing to have, especially if you are just starting out, as I assume you are. I think that the Veritas jig is the best system that I have ever seen, and if I were a novice, I would definitely buy one.

-- J. Crate, Maryland

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