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Freud LU72 vs Freyd LU84 for general-purpose table saw blade

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Forum topic by nysharps posted 533 days ago 1106 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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nysharps

2 posts in 533 days


533 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: question tablesaw

Hi all,
I’m fairly new to the world of table saws, having recently acquired a Steel City 35990C, which is their 10”, cast-iron table, “contractor” saw, though really I don’t feel that it’s portable enough to be a true contractor saw, and is more like a contractor / cabinet hybrid. Not a super-nice saw, but a good starting point, I think. Anyway, I would like to upgrade the blade on it with a nice general-purpose one.

After doing a lot of reading, it seems that the Freud LU84 combo blade is well recommended and fits in my price range. Then, on the Freud website, I came across the LU72, which is a 40T ATB blade. From what I understand, this would mean that it would be a little better at ripping and a little rougher when cross-cutting compared to the LU84, which is important for me since I expect to be ripping up to 1.5” hardwoods and the 40T ATB should still give “glue ready” cross cuts. However, I haven’t encountered very many first-hand experiences with the LU72 on here or on other forums.

So my question is: has anybody had experience with the LU72, and which saw blade do you think should serve me better? I know that the best thing is to get 2 blades, one for ripping and one for cross-cutting, but I want something where I don’t have to swap blades every few minutes if I’m doing a small project.


6 replies so far

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knotscott

5417 posts in 2002 days


#1 posted 533 days ago

FWIW, “jobsite” saws are the small portables that contractors actually use in the field. It’s kind of a misnomer, but stems back from the days before portable jobsite saws were available, so contractor saws were about the only option other than a full cabinet saw. Modern versions have the motor housed inside the enclosure, and are often referred to as hybrids or hybrid style contractor saws. Making Sense of Table Saw Classifications

Your saw will have an easier time spinning a 3/32”thin kerf version of both of those blades….the LU83 or the LU86. The 1/8” full kerf kerf is 33% wider, and requires proportionately more power to spin. Your saw will work with full kerf if that’s the route you want to choose, but there will be less strain with the TK’s, and likely extend the overall life of the motor. The LU83/LU84 50T ATB/R combo style blades are very easy blades to get good results with. The LU72 is one of the few blades that I haven’t tried personally, and I have no idea why the LU72 is so much less popular…possibly because it competes with Freud’s elite 40T Premier Fusion blades, the P410 & P410T, which should leave a cleaner edge on rips and less tearout on crosscuts and plywood.

Tips for picking saw blades

Other premium considerations – Infinity Super General, Infinity Combomax, Ridge Carbide TS2000, Tenryu Gold Medal, Forrest WWII (30T, 40T, or 48T), CMT 216.050.10, or possibly the Irwin Marples 50T.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View toolie's profile

toolie

1737 posts in 1254 days


#2 posted 533 days ago

and in the “bargain category, i understand this blade is quite well reviewed:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000O7UESC/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

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nysharps

2 posts in 533 days


#3 posted 532 days ago

Thanks for the tips. In my searching, I did come across many recommendations for the Forrest WWII, but $120 is way out of my budget. The Freud saws were priced just right at $40-60. Plus, since I’m only a beginner, I doubt I would really be able to appreciate the difference between a nice saw and a really nice saw. I’ll have to look into some of the other ones.

I’ve read about people having issues with thin-kerf saws, especially on thicker materials, and having to use stiffeners. I didn’t really want to buy a stiffener when I could just get a full-kerf saw. Would I get that much better performance out of a thin-kerf?

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

3404 posts in 2586 days


#4 posted 532 days ago

I have both Freud 50t and Onsrud 50t full kerf blades for my G0444Z contractor saw (as well as a bunch of specific use blades). Both work well on stock up to 1 1/2”. For thick stock ripping I use a TK ripper from Infinity.
At work we rip a lot of really thick stuff and we use a Freud 18t ripper.
Bill

-- bill@magraphics.us

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knotscott

5417 posts in 2002 days


#5 posted 532 days ago

Much of what you’ve read about problems with TK blades may have pertained to older lower quality blades, or to circumstances not conducive to their use. The vast majority of hobbyists running high quality TK blades on a good saw that’s set up well, will not have issues, and won’t need a stabilizer. It’s often next to impossible to tell the quality of the cuts apart between a comparable full kerf and thin kerf, but it’s very easy to feel the reduced feed pressure that’s required, especially in thicker materials. I’ve tested many side by side and have always had good results from a high quality TK blade. Now that I have a 3hp saw, there’s less incentive to use TK’s, but they were a God-send with my smaller saws.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

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mbs

1435 posts in 1566 days


#6 posted 532 days ago

The ridge ts2000 is on sale at woodpeckers for 79 bucks now.

-- Sorry the reply is so long. I didn't have time to write a short reply.

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