advice on resawing

  • Advertise with us

« back to Wood & Lumber forum

Forum topic by Curtis Z posted 03-06-2013 08:46 AM 1379 views 1 time favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View Curtis Z's profile

Curtis Z

30 posts in 1905 days

03-06-2013 08:46 AM

Well.. just joined to get some pointers.. so first post here we go..

Besides some token end grain boards for the wife and in laws.. I’m looking at doing my first “Big project”... I made the mistake (or good decision.. time will tell) of taking the missus to choose the wood for a cheval.. will open up for jewelry.. etc. Now she fell in love with a piece of blood wood with a really nice grain pattern on it.. and is hoping I can leave it intact for the back. Problem is…. It’s 8/4 and, 16” wide, and about 6ft tall. lol.

So before I dash her hopes.. any suggestions on trying to cut a 1/4” thick piece off to preserve the look before I do any other cutting ? Feel free to call me insane for considering a handsaw. Haha.

Any thoughts would be appreciated!


9 replies so far

View Monte Pittman's profile

Monte Pittman

29224 posts in 2335 days

#1 posted 03-06-2013 09:17 AM

You’re insane for considering a hacksaw. It would be tough, but not impossible, to get a straight and relatively smooth cut. There are LJ’s here who do that successfully. Your arms will look like Popeye. I don’t know your setup, but I am assuming you don’t have a large bandsaw to cut it. To hand saw it you could build a jig to keep the cut fairly even. If the cut is too rough, getting it flat and smooth after the fact is really tough, unless you have a planer. Good luck on your adventure.

Welcome to LumberJocks

-- Nature created it, I just assemble it.

View Doug 's profile


28 posts in 2090 days

#2 posted 03-06-2013 11:52 AM

If your not too concerned about losing some of your thickness to saw kerf you can use your tablesaw with the board on edge. Use featherboards and an outfeed table and take light passes, flip the board end for end and cut the other side. Once you get very close to the cuts meeting there will be very little material left and you can just pop them apart with a chisel. The material left is very easy to remove with a block plane. Ive done this many times and its quick and works well for me. Of course this assumes you have a tablesaw. Welcome to the forum!

View Curtis Z's profile

Curtis Z

30 posts in 1905 days

#3 posted 03-06-2013 01:15 PM

Well.. my “Shop” is still somewhat simple. My bandsaw can’t take that size, and my tablesaw will clear maybe a max of 2 1/2 inch on each side, still leaving that middle 11inch.

Like I said, I know the handsaw plan is somewhat insane, but im not sure what else to attempt if, as suggested, there isn’t a wood shop around capable of doing it also. The other problem is my planer is only 13 inch…

Nothing like trying to start out making it easy on myself.. ;)

View Sandblastguy's profile


42 posts in 2108 days

#4 posted 03-06-2013 01:29 PM

Look for someone in your area with a portable sawmill. Lots of times these sawmills are large bandsaws and they would rip that for you. I see you are in Alberta so this may not be easy. You could always rip the board down to just under double the height of your table saw blade and resaw the boards. Number the boards as you saw them so you glue them together in the correct order

Good luck

-- Sandblastguy Orangeville On. Creating Art From Nature

View Cosmicsniper's profile


2202 posts in 3155 days

#5 posted 03-06-2013 01:58 PM

I would have this milled by somebody else. But if I were to do this myself, I would kerf it as high as I could with the tablesaw on both sides and then use a quality rip saw. I do this routinely with 12” or less boards since I do not have a bandsaw handy. I also use a reciprocating saw for boards in the 8” to 10” range.

I use two heavy sawhorses clamped together with parallel clamps to hold the boards upright as I do this (I since have purchased a big rip saw, but the crosscut saw in this picture still works)...

Regardless, the tablesaw kerfs help to keep the blade straight. Cut it slightly oversized by an 1/8” or so to give room to clean up the saw marks.

Alternatively, you can rip the board down the middle, resaw, then rejoin later. Such a thing is often imperceptible after glue up.

-- jay,

View Curtis Z's profile

Curtis Z

30 posts in 1905 days

#6 posted 03-06-2013 10:36 PM

Thanks for the advice all.. my luck finding someone to mill it anywhere near here is so far failing. Not a lot of lumber mills in an area with almost no trees.. Lol.

I may have to resort to the kerfs and rip saw… (did prefer to avoid it!) worst case.. It’s a good excuse to buy a better saw… ;)

I’ll let you know how it goes.. :)

View dustyrusty's profile


9 posts in 1979 days

#7 posted 03-06-2013 11:00 PM

Howdy Curtis
First mistake was taking the little lady with you to buy wood. Ask me ,I know( one small piece of quilted maple and 60 bucks out of my wallet). Actually I like taking “SHE WHO MUST BE OBEYED” with me.
In your case why not rip a deep groove on both sides with the table saw and finish cutting with the hand saw. Slow and not easy but it’ll work.

-- making sawdust is my hobby

View Curtis Z's profile

Curtis Z

30 posts in 1905 days

#8 posted 03-06-2013 11:06 PM

Well. I haven’t decided if it was a good idea or a mistake yet. She also wandered back once and randomly brought home some Brazilian Tulipwood and ziricote… cause they looked pretty…. Lol

Ya.. I may end up resorting to the cut and finish with a handsaw… the things I get myself into!

View Curtis Z's profile

Curtis Z

30 posts in 1905 days

#9 posted 03-07-2013 12:17 AM

Ha.. I like it….. coincidently

I was actually looking at this… simply because I can buy it here in town…

Plan B

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics