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Grr-Ripper vs Rockler Thin Rip jig

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Forum topic by Elizabeth posted 03-05-2013 07:15 PM 2228 views 0 times favorited 16 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Elizabeth

811 posts in 1898 days


03-05-2013 07:15 PM

Topic tags/keywords: jig question

I have decided to use some holiday money to get a Grr-Ripper after reading about it in a recent thread. My question is about whether the Grr-ripper duplicates the abilities of the Rockler Thin Rip jig . I have the Rockler jig on backorder right now from an order I placed last month. It was $20 at the time. If I get the Grr-ripper will I have any use for the Rockler jig?


16 replies so far

View GregD's profile

GregD

637 posts in 1891 days


#1 posted 03-05-2013 07:25 PM

If you are ripping strips narrower than 1/8” you won’t want to use your Grr-Ripper. And if the work is longer such that more than one Grr-Ripper is needed to control it, I much prefer limiting the strips to maybe 3/16” or wider.

I guess that isn’t an issue for me; I don’t have anything like the thin rip jig and I have no urge to get one. Your situation may be different.

Are you planning to get 1 Grr-Ripper? I would recommend getting 2 so you can “walk” longer work pieces through the cut. I use mine all the time on the table saw and on the router table.

They are very pricey, IMHO, but they provide a lot of control and keep fingers far away from cutters!

-- Greg D.

View Bobmedic's profile

Bobmedic

302 posts in 1556 days


#2 posted 03-05-2013 07:30 PM

Yes, the Rockler thin rip jig allows you to cut thinner strips than you could with the gripper and on the opposite side of the blade. Both items will be a great addition to your shop. I think the smallest rip you can do with the gripper is ⅛”. Even if you could go smaller it is much safer to cut thin strips on the opposite side of the blade from the fence. The gripper will allow you to make a large variety of cuts that would be otherwise unsafe to do. I suggest though that you get 2 grippers, if you are working with longer stock you can hand over hand leap frog them as you are feeding the work through the tool. I use mine on my table saw, router table, jointer.

-- Save lives, ease suffering, reduce morbidity and mortality, stomp out pestilence and disease, postpone the inevitable, and fake compassion. The Paramedics Creed

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Bobmedic

302 posts in 1556 days


#3 posted 03-05-2013 07:34 PM

Here is a link to a fellow LJ that made his own grippers.

-- Save lives, ease suffering, reduce morbidity and mortality, stomp out pestilence and disease, postpone the inevitable, and fake compassion. The Paramedics Creed

View Elizabeth's profile

Elizabeth

811 posts in 1898 days


#4 posted 03-05-2013 07:42 PM

Thanks guys. I found a set of two Grr-Rippers and some accessories at the Tool Nut that I’m going to pick up via Amazon, and I’ll probably keep my Rockler order as-is.

BobMedic, thanks for the link! I’ve got limited shop time at the moment so I’d rather spend it making projects than jigs/grippers, but I’ll hang on to that for future reference.

View wncguy's profile

wncguy

229 posts in 1067 days


#5 posted 03-05-2013 08:32 PM

Elizabeth – I’m considering these also, which of the Grr-Ripper models did you decide on… the 100 or 200?
Thanks.

-- Any man can be a father, but it takes someone special to be a Dad

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Elizabeth

811 posts in 1898 days


#6 posted 03-05-2013 09:12 PM

200, on the grounds that whenever I go for the cheaper model of a tool to save a couple bucks, I regret it.

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bondogaposis

2767 posts in 1106 days


#7 posted 03-05-2013 11:22 PM

The thin rip tool will be very nice for making multiple strips of identical thickness. The grr ripper is more of a push block and has more generalized uses. Both will compliment each other.

-- Bondo Gaposis

View Elizabeth's profile

Elizabeth

811 posts in 1898 days


#8 posted 03-05-2013 11:31 PM

Do you think I can keep the blade guard on with the thin rip jig or will it get in the way? It’s a sawstop with the overhead dust collection thing too.

View Bobmedic's profile

Bobmedic

302 posts in 1556 days


#9 posted 03-06-2013 03:05 AM

You should be able to keep the guard on with the Rockler thin rip jig because you set them up behind the blade. The gripper straddles the blade so you would have to take it off, Hope this helps

-- Save lives, ease suffering, reduce morbidity and mortality, stomp out pestilence and disease, postpone the inevitable, and fake compassion. The Paramedics Creed

View CharlieM1958's profile

CharlieM1958

15822 posts in 2973 days


#10 posted 03-06-2013 03:12 AM

I’ve got two Grr-Rippers and a thin rip jig. Their uses don’t really overlap, so by all means get both!

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

View RetiredCoastie's profile

RetiredCoastie

999 posts in 1937 days


#11 posted 03-06-2013 03:15 AM

2 different animals. One is intended to rip thin strips of wood (thin rip jig) where the other is more of a push block (grripper).

-- www.thepatriotwoodworker.com Proud Supporter of Homes For Our Troops

View 5x10's profile

5x10

4 posts in 682 days


#12 posted 03-21-2013 05:40 PM

I had the exact same question and found this thread in Google. I just purchased and setup my first table saw (Dewalt 744XRS) and have only made a few practice cuts so far (I have never used one before, I’m new to woodworking, and my anxiety level after watching what can go wrong on YouTube has led me to consider the Grr-Rippers.)

I tried cutting a super thin strip of redwood 2×4 to see what would happen, and was shocked that I could cut a strip that was almost translucent! I’m now thinking about making an LED lamp or something made out of super thin stock. Researching further, now I realize why zero-clearance plates are recommended, and also saw the Rockler thin-rip jig, but wasn’t thrilled about the idea of having to move the fence on each rip, as this article pints out:
https://www.wwgoa.com/articles/one-great-tip/three-ways-to-ripem-thin/

In that article it seems to favor the idea of using a DIY jig to solve that problem, using a 10” wide jig with a push tab, putting the thin strip between the blade and the jig/fence side. This second article has a longer breakdown on how it works, and looks easy to make: http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/resource/TablesawTechniques/ThinStrips/index.html

I would love any additional insights about you guys might have on techniques you favor; I’d like like to keep all my fingers.

-- Safety Third!

View Ripthorn's profile

Ripthorn

800 posts in 1740 days


#13 posted 03-21-2013 05:49 PM

As others have said, they don’t really overlap, but keep in mind that with the thin rip jig, you make it so that the material just touches it, otherwise the bearing won’t turn freely and it can cause issues with binding in the cut.

-- Brian T. - Exact science is not an exact science

View higtron's profile

higtron

200 posts in 1432 days


#14 posted 03-21-2013 06:33 PM

I have the thin rip jig and, I love it I just use a homemade push stick still got all my fingers.

-- If I cut it too short I can scab a piece on, but if it's too long what do I do?

View NGK's profile

NGK

93 posts in 666 days


#15 posted 03-21-2013 06:43 PM

For years I’ve had a jig like the one demonstrated by 5 X 10 above. EXCEPT mine is 6 feet long and made out of 2-inch stock. His width of 10 inches is not critical, but it’s handy if it’s a perfectly even number of inches, including odd numbers. In other words, 7 inches works as well a 6 or 8 or 10. 7 inches or more give you a safety factor.

Since I use tungsten tipped saw blades I used both glue and pin nails to adhere the tab.

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