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Restoring an older Rockwell 34-345

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Forum topic by Topsailor posted 505 days ago 1674 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Topsailor

22 posts in 510 days


505 days ago

I recently picked up a Rockwell 34-345 from craigslist for $25 and I’m going to attempt to restore it. Altogether the saw wasn’t in bad shape except some rust. Except that the arbor nut was stuck. I tried with every tool I could think of to free it but had no choice but to hack it off. I didn’t have the foresight to take a before picture but I have some in process pictures. I’m still trying to get a line on the arbor bearing which isn’t carried by any supplier I can find, nor can I find it on ebay. If someone has a place to get one let me know. In the meantime I will attempt to find some bearings and a shaft and make a more modern day replacement if I can size them right. Everything I have gotten clean has got a generous coat of T9 Boeshield.


The arbor bearing…what’s left of it.


Table top




6 replies so far

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IrreverentJack

724 posts in 1439 days


#1 posted 504 days ago

Topsailor, I apologize in advance. That motorized saw was my first table saw and I suffered with it for many (too many) years. I’m glad it was only $25 because you overpaid. The arbor has not been available for many years. I don’t think you’ll find a drive belt either. It is LOUD, shaky and inaccurate. Dangerous IMO. Any belt driven contractor saw is a vast improvement. I used the base for my drill press and I’m saving the table (aluminum) to use as an out-feed table for my Delta contractor saw as it’s thin enough to fit over the motor and the miter slots line up. If you have the fence rails you could use them on a band saw. I advise you not to waste any time or money on that motorized saw. -Jack

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Topsailor

22 posts in 510 days


#2 posted 504 days ago

I understand that it is not the best saw and nor did I expect it to be. I was thinking it would be nicer than the one I have. I currently have a Craftsman Model #21807. This saw has been the bane of my existence. The fence is never square no matter how many adjustments I make and the insert is a pain. I want to make a zero clearance insert for it but it is only held in place by a couple of latches. The extensions are wobbly and when extended they sag.

I do have a bandsaw that could use a fence and I could use the tabletop for my drill press table. I would keep the motor for possibly making a 1” belt sander but not sure. I understand the concern and at worst case I will part it out. I would like to see what everyone thinks knowing what I currently have. Unfortunately I do not have the money to get a nice Unisaw and have not found a contractor’s saw yet.

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Russ

356 posts in 1673 days


#3 posted 504 days ago

I have the same saw while I understand it to not be the best I’ve been doing well with it. However if you decide to scrap it I would like to discuss buying the plastic gear for the tilt mechanism and if you have it I would like to get the latch that allows you to hook up the blade guard. Let me know.

-- Russ

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IrreverentJack

724 posts in 1439 days


#4 posted 503 days ago

Russ, I don’t have any the internal parts of mine anymore. Good luck with it. -Jack

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Topsailor

22 posts in 510 days


#5 posted 503 days ago

What would you say about a craftsman 298151? It’s belt driven and the guy wants $50.

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IrreverentJack

724 posts in 1439 days


#6 posted 502 days ago

There are quite a few LJs with Emerson/Craftsman 113.298 or 299xxx contractor saws. I have one that I bought for $50 myself. When in tune they can be nice saws. The main weakness with most of them is the fence. Check that the table is flat and that it runs. Hard to say more without a picture. Upgrading the fence with a T2 (less than $200) is popular. I put on new switch, belt, pulleys, PALS and a mobile base. If you shop around you can find a newer used saw with a good fence for less than you will put into the Craftsman. But, if the saw is usable now for $50, I’d buy it and learn on it. -Jack

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