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My first resaw - is it acceptable?

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Forum topic by unisaw posted 03-05-2013 01:50 AM 1082 views 0 times favorited 21 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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unisaw

86 posts in 2786 days


03-05-2013 01:50 AM

Topic tags/keywords: resaw bandsaw rikon

This is the first resaw on my new Rikon 14”. This is a test cut and there are blade marks which I expect (some at least). Just curious if the results pass the smell test. Tomorrow I resaw a piece of 6/4 quarter sawn red oak for a project (Scott Meeks wood plane).

Wood: 2×4 (all sides jointed and planed first)
Blade Speed: Slow
Blade: Highland Wood Slicer (1/2”)
Feed: Couple of pauses (Where did I put that damn push stick!)

The only variable I’m not sure of was the 1/2” of slack in the pulley belt after I changed the speed. 1/2 seems like alot and I might have it too tight. Couldn’t help myself.


21 replies so far

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Grandpa

3130 posts in 1329 days


#1 posted 03-05-2013 01:54 AM

Looks great to me!! but then again what do I know about resawing? LOL It does look great. It would pass my test for sure.

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toolie

1762 posts in 1282 days


#2 posted 03-05-2013 02:08 AM

looks good. should plane out just fine.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

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Loren

7550 posts in 2301 days


#3 posted 03-05-2013 02:39 AM

The Woodslicer does a great job when it is new
and very sharp. As it dulls though you’ll have to
keep an eye on it. The blade cannot be sharpened
on a machine but it can be resharpened by hand.

-- http://lawoodworking.com

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Monte Pittman

14164 posts in 991 days


#4 posted 03-05-2013 02:48 AM

Looks real nice to me

-- Mother Nature created it, I just assemble it.

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unisaw

86 posts in 2786 days


#5 posted 03-05-2013 02:56 AM

Thanks everyone. There is some negative sentiment around this saw based on blade chatter. I’m in love with it.

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Moron

4666 posts in 2547 days


#6 posted 03-05-2013 03:31 AM

Looks good to me

-- "Good artists borrow, great artists steal”…..Picasso

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gfadvm

10861 posts in 1343 days


#7 posted 03-05-2013 03:33 AM

That looks perfectly acceptable to me. You used the” slow blade speed” which is not normally used for sawing wood (at least on the BSs I’m familiar with). Have you compared cuts with the faster speed?

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

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unisaw

86 posts in 2786 days


#8 posted 03-05-2013 07:34 PM

@gfadvm I searched online and the consensus was to use the slower speed to resaw. I haven’t compared because it is such a PITA to change blades.

Edit – I take that back – after more google searches, a higher speed might do the trick.

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Cosmicsniper

2199 posts in 1812 days


#9 posted 03-05-2013 07:37 PM

Looks great!

-- jay, www.allaboutastro.com

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stefang

13024 posts in 1987 days


#10 posted 03-05-2013 09:40 PM

Here are the general rules:

RE: Bandsaw blade speed
This is taken from the General International manual for a 14” bandsaw that runs at 2710 or 1580 fpm:

Thick Material = Slower Speed
Harder or Denser Material = Slower Speed
Blades with Fine Tooth Pitch = Slower Speed
Thin Material = Faster Speed
Soft Material = Faster Speed
Blades with Few Teeth PI = Faster Speed

-- Mike, an American living in Norway.

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Surfside

3147 posts in 827 days


#11 posted 03-05-2013 09:55 PM

That looks great and clean! A very well done resaw job!

-- "someone has to be wounded for others to be saved, someone has to sacrifice for others to feel happiness, someone has to die so others could live"

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DrDirt

2445 posts in 2395 days


#12 posted 03-05-2013 09:59 PM

My test of how it is doing would be to measure the thickness at all 4 corners and along the center, to see if you are getting a flat cut.

The blade marks are inevitable.
But you don’t want to have the blade make a bareled cut – where one side is concave (top to bottom) and the other side convex.

If the cut isn’t flat, you need:

a) bit more tension
b) to tweak the blade tracking or fence angle, as you aren’t cutting “clean” so extra heat as the blade drags on one side.
c) slower feed to allow the blade to clear the chips out better as you feed

or

Little touch of everything. – Ya gotta play a bit, there is no one magic setup.

To check the tracking – feed the 2X4 in until the blade is buried – but you can look at it from behind… you want to see the back of the blade centered in the cut.

-- "If we did all the things we are capable of doing, we would literally astonish ourselves." Edison

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Kazooman

58 posts in 605 days


#13 posted 03-05-2013 10:06 PM

Stefang:

Your information on speed raises a question. Thicker = slower. Fewer TPI = faster. Resawing presents the thickest challenge we have on the band saw and it calls for a blade with the fewest TPI. So….. which aspect trumps the other?

I have solved this problem the good old fashioned way. My BS has but one speed.

For the OP: In my limited experience I have found that a very sharp blade, with high tension, and a slow feed rate are all factors that contribute to a good resawing job. I think it was in another thread where it was pointed out that once a blade starts to follow grain and wander it will continue to do so. Good tension helps fight this. There is no greater disappointment than opening up your dream bookmatch to find that the kerf was wandering all over the place and you have a lot of planing to do. You will find that hardwoods are more of a challenge than a 2 X 4 in this regard.

I recently resawed some figured cherry that was just a hair over 7/8 X 6. I needed to get as close to 3/8 as I could for the final dimension. A brand new 3/4” X 3tpi blade with higher than normal tension did the job. A great bookmatched raised panel for a blanket chest is the result.

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CessnaPilotBarry

890 posts in 763 days


#14 posted 03-05-2013 10:07 PM

If the thickness is pretty constant, and the faces are pretty flat, it looks fine to me.

Sometimes, construction lumber is harder to resaw, as it tends to have a higher moisture content, so it clogs the gullets. My 1 1/2 HP Delta X5 only has one speed, so I choose as few teeth as possible when resawing, to best clear the sawdust.

My criteria for a good resaw are, in order:
- Face flatter than not (no bellying)
- Boards thickness constant on the edges, at both ends
- Blade marks smaller than larger

The less time you need to bring your resawn board faces to flat, parallel, and to desired thickness, the better you did. Some stock is better if you resaw it oversize, then wait a few days before truing the fresh faces. You’re exposing a lot of wood to air for the first time, and there is bound to be a bit of movement after it’s cut.

-- It's all good, if it's wood...

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gfadvm

10861 posts in 1343 days


#15 posted 03-05-2013 10:09 PM

Stefang, Thanks for posting the blade speed recommendations but now I’m confused: most resawing would be considered thick materiel but most resaw blades are 1-3 TPI (few TPI). So what speed? I have never used the slower speed on my Grizz and now wonder if I should. I think my manual says “high speed fpr wood”. Somebody needs to smarten me up!

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

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