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Brazing band saw blades

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Forum topic by Loren posted 03-02-2013 05:22 AM 1103 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Loren

7533 posts in 2297 days


03-02-2013 05:22 AM

I’ve had a blade brazing kit for years but only used it
a few times because most of my band sawing ran to
straight cuts with wider blades that don’t easily break.

Looking at prices in the $22 ea. (plus shipping) range
for the 104” blades I need for my INCA band saw,
I decided to take a look at buying a coil and brazing
my own blades.

The good news is brazing is super easy. You do need
a fixture for holding the blade ends in relationship when
you apply heat. Other than that, scarfing blade stock
can be done with a file or with and angled block and
a grinding wheel mounted on a drill press. The scarfed
ends are fluxed and clamped with a 1/16” gap and
a piece of flat silver solder put in the gap. The flux
holds the solder in place. Then I wave a propane torch
over the ends of the blade and the solder makes
a nice joint.

The drawback is coils are generally only sold in 100’
or 250’ lengths so the cash outlay to get a coil is
more than the price of a couple of welded blades.

I bought an old stock coil on ebay. 1/4” x 6 TPI –
I’ll save a bundle as I work through the coil stock.

-- http://lawoodworking.com


8 replies so far

View TCCcabinetmaker's profile

TCCcabinetmaker

925 posts in 1004 days


#1 posted 03-02-2013 05:51 AM

There is actually a machine for welding band saw blades, Have to have one for the big bandsaw at the shop, it welds them, grinds them and all in one machine, kind of a tricky tool to master though. But I thought the 104s were more common than that, don’t know though, since I’m either using a small blade, or a massive 150 or something like that.

-- The mark of a good carpenter is not how few mistakes he makes, but rather how well he fixes them.

View murch's profile

murch

1150 posts in 1274 days


#2 posted 03-02-2013 09:51 AM

I worked in a metal-working shop one time where the band-saw had a built on spot welder.
it was only little but it worked a treat. This is about 20 yrs ago so I cannot remember the make.
Very handy tool though.

-- A family man has photos in his wallet where his money used to be.

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Surfside

3128 posts in 823 days


#3 posted 03-05-2013 10:12 PM

In horizontal band saws, brazed band saw blades are not recommended to use but missing tooth/teeth would be fine. There’s a huge tendency that the blade will break again.

-- "someone has to be wounded for others to be saved, someone has to sacrifice for others to feel happiness, someone has to die so others could live"

View 1yeldud1's profile

1yeldud1

290 posts in 1692 days


#4 posted 03-06-2013 02:55 AM

This is a topic I have been working on just this week. I am a tool maker / tool and die welder for almost 40 years. I have welded blades using Tig, a blade welder built into our band saw and silver soldered blades at work for our band saws. I personally have a Rockwell Delta band saw (with back gears) that I use for wood. I use 3/8 and 1/4 inch blades (wood and metal blades) for this saw. I have purchased many coils of band saw blades off of e-bay for this saw. I generally build small projects so this selection of blades works well for me. I have tried to tig these blades using 7 amps and tried using our blade welder with some success. But the best luck I have had with this selection of small blades is silver solder. I use Harris brand silver solder with about 45% silver in .032 diameter. I cut the blades to length and grind a scarf joint on my pedstal grinder. I built a jig to clamp these blades in. I use flux and heat my blades with a common propane torch. When the flux begins to “flow” i add a small amount of solder to the joint and then just lightly file the joint when the blade cools this whole process just takes about 3 minutes per blade – this is bar far the best combination I have found for these small blades. But please note I do NOT cut metal with these blades so I can not answer how this type of joint would hold up against a steel work piece.

View Loren's profile (online now)

Loren

7533 posts in 2297 days


#5 posted 03-06-2013 04:05 AM

Old machine guru Bob Vaughn shares how he solders
band saw blades (with pictures) at:

http://wiki.vintagemachinery.org/BandsawBladeSoldering.ashx

-- http://lawoodworking.com

View RetiredCoastie's profile

RetiredCoastie

999 posts in 1832 days


#6 posted 03-06-2013 05:33 AM

I’ve worked with several of the band saws that had the welding feature. One of the brands was a “DO-ALL”. They worked great.

-- www.thepatriotwoodworker.com Proud Supporter of Homes For Our Troops

View 1yeldud1's profile

1yeldud1

290 posts in 1692 days


#7 posted 03-06-2013 10:36 AM

I am using fairly small blades on my bandsaw at home. I tried to use the blade welder at work to weld these but by the time I welded and annealed the blades and then ground down the excess weld on the blades I was spending almost a 1/2 hour on these small blades. It is very important to anneal the weld zone on a band saw blade or the blade gets very brittle in the welded area. large blades 3/4 and up are a piece of cake on the blade welder. We have had Do All and Grob bandsaw /welders during my career

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1yeldud1

290 posts in 1692 days


#8 posted 03-06-2013 10:44 AM

The jig on the vintage machinery site is very similar to the one that I use. I use .030 diameter solder instead of “shim stock” style solder just because I can purchase it thru my employer. It works just great as the flux will wick the solder right into the center of the scarf joint on these small blades. I have had co workers take the small diameter silver solder and pound it flat with a hammer and then place this small piece in the scarf joint area to resemble the shim stock style solder

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