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Is Waterlox wipe- or brush-on or wipe-on/wipe-off?

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Forum topic by Millo posted 03-02-2013 04:58 AM 5429 views 1 time favorited 25 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Millo

543 posts in 2514 days


03-02-2013 04:58 AM

How do you apply Waterlox, brushing, wiping and leaving it, wipe-on/wipe-off? Do you dilute it depending on application technique? Anyone like it better than Arm R Seal, Minwax Wipe-On Poly?

How forgiving is it on vertical, already-assembled pieces like table bases? How forgiving is it on horizontal surfaces? Is the low-voc version recommendable? Does it it still flash off after 30 days?

Thanks!


25 replies so far

View Mark Kornell's profile

Mark Kornell

1061 posts in 1995 days


#1 posted 03-02-2013 06:02 AM

Wipe on, wait for 5-10 minutes, wipe off. Want to wipe off before it becomes too sticky. No dilution.

Not sure what you mean by forgiving, but I find no difference in application or end result between horizontal and vertical parts.

-- Mark Kornell, Kornell Wood Design

View Dusty56's profile

Dusty56

11806 posts in 3152 days


#2 posted 03-02-2013 06:08 AM

I’ve had nothing less than excellent results with Waterlox Original product.
When in doubt , read the label and follow the manufacturers application schedule : )

-- I'm absolutely positive that I couldn't be more uncertain!

View Millo's profile

Millo

543 posts in 2514 days


#3 posted 03-02-2013 04:04 PM

Hmm, that’s the thing, I read the instructions (downloaded from their site online). I don’t think it says anything about wiping off, but when I’ve talked to people about it, that’s what they’ve told me. I’ll visit Woodcraft todayadn check.

HAS ANYONE USED THE LOW-VOC FORMULA? IS IT REALLY BETTER IN TERMS OF A SHORTER PERIOD OF FLASHING OFF FUMES?

By more ‘forgiving’ on vertical surfaces I meant not many runs/sags. However, if it’s wiped off I guess that does not matter, huh?

Thanks guys!

View Dusty56's profile

Dusty56

11806 posts in 3152 days


#4 posted 03-02-2013 10:02 PM

Hi , see page 10 at this link : )
Hope it helps with your question ….if I read it correctly , do not try to wipe the finish off. Apply it and allow it to soak in and self-level. There’s 13 pages to read , but I believe page 10 is most relevant to your question.

http://www.waterlox.com/assets/pdfs/woodworking-guide-FINAL.pdf

-- I'm absolutely positive that I couldn't be more uncertain!

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Millo

543 posts in 2514 days


#5 posted 03-02-2013 10:33 PM

Well there you go. I was very sleepy when reading that doc, LOL! Whoops, missed it. Apparently the guys at a certain wood-related store here in town totally ignore the directions and still get a wonderful finish. Same with other peeps; that’s why I was confused—I have read and heard so many people explaining VERY contradicting techniques for applying this finish yet everyone seems to love it. Every time I ask about a finish for tabletops this, Arm R Seal and very lastly Minwax WipeOn Poly get recommended. The one people I’ve talked to have recommended the most is this one.

Anyhow, I already bought it. I’ll experiment later this week. Thanks guys

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Dusty56

11806 posts in 3152 days


#6 posted 03-02-2013 10:41 PM

I used Waterlox on this Walnut coat rack and it came out just fine : )

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/26952

ps: , those aren’t shadows of the coathooks , they’re reflections.

-- I'm absolutely positive that I couldn't be more uncertain!

View gfadvm's profile

gfadvm

14940 posts in 2154 days


#7 posted 03-03-2013 02:52 AM

Dusty, That coat rack actually came out a lot better than “just fine” :)

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View Dusty56's profile

Dusty56

11806 posts in 3152 days


#8 posted 03-03-2013 03:08 AM

Thank you , Andy : ) I couldn’t capture the “depth” of the finish in the pictures , but it looked like the hooks were sitting in a puddle of water. The Walnut color and grain were really brought to life by the Waterlox.

-- I'm absolutely positive that I couldn't be more uncertain!

View TCCcabinetmaker's profile

TCCcabinetmaker

930 posts in 1819 days


#9 posted 03-03-2013 07:51 AM

There are alot of people who umm don’t really know what you’re talking about therefore they automatically assume to follow the directions for wipe on poly I guess. I have done both methods of application, but I have never wiped it off, works a little better with a rag, unless you have inside corners.

-- The mark of a good carpenter is not how few mistakes he makes, but rather how well he fixes them.

View Charlie's profile

Charlie

1100 posts in 1750 days


#10 posted 03-03-2013 03:29 PM

Large horizontal surface: Wipe it on THICK with a lamb’s wool pad like a floor applicator.
Applied this way, 3 coats is PLENTY.

Vertical surface. Wipe it on with a rag. Thinner coats and more of them. DO NOT wipe it off. Just rub it in. You’ll need 2 to 3 times as many coats this way, but it won’t drip or sag.

View Millo's profile

Millo

543 posts in 2514 days


#11 posted 03-03-2013 10:37 PM

Hey Charlie:

Thanks for your suggestions. Have you ever tried brushing it? WHICH BRINGS ME TO THE NEXT QUESTIONS: DOES ANYONE HAVE A FAVORITE BRUSH BRAND FOR WATERLOX? FAVORITE PAD APPLICATOR BRAND, IF THERE ARE ANY DIFFERENCES?

Dusty, that looks great.
I got the low-voc clear/sealer.
I also got the low-voc Satin.

We’ll see what happens…

View Mark Davisson's profile

Mark Davisson

597 posts in 2781 days


#12 posted 03-03-2013 10:46 PM

Millo, I was introduced to Waterlox by Allan Little. He has some excellent videos on applying the product here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c4tDZbhMWWw

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=szeq_9iaaSM

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HqiLQvJmvxQ

-- I'm selfless because it feels so good!

View Dusty56's profile

Dusty56

11806 posts in 3152 days


#13 posted 03-03-2013 10:51 PM

Millo , I haven’t tried the low-voc , so let us know how you make out with it. Thanks for the compliment : ) Charlie , that island top looks awesome !

-- I'm absolutely positive that I couldn't be more uncertain!

View Mark Kornell's profile

Mark Kornell

1061 posts in 1995 days


#14 posted 03-03-2013 10:58 PM

This was using the satin product, no sealer. Two coats, wiped on/off:

Different look. I wasn’t going for a film buildup, but a soft feel to the wood. It has a soft glow to it that doesn’t really come out in the pictures.

-- Mark Kornell, Kornell Wood Design

View Charlie's profile

Charlie

1100 posts in 1750 days


#15 posted 03-03-2013 11:52 PM

Millo, yes, I have brushed it AND I have wiped it on.
For the walnut island top I wanted a good film thickness. My cooktop is set into it and it gets a LOT of use. I have another cabinet I built with a smaller countertop section, still walnut, that I brushed on the first 3 coats and then wiped on 5 or 6 more. The gloss is noticeably less on that smaller top.

Note that ALL of these application methods are fine. I do NOT agree with the wiping OFF part being suggested by some. If you wipe it on as soon as it starts to dry it gets sticky and I think you’re asking for trouble. UNLESS there is a specific look you’re after AND unless you can experiment a bit to get the technique down, I wouldn’t try to put it on heavy and then try to wipe it off. Just wipe it on from the get-go and be done with it. But you NEED to wipe on MANY coats to get a film build sufficient for anything that’s going to see some use.

With that said, as you can see, Mark has his technique down. For the piece he’s showing and for the look he wanted, he got the wipe on/wipe off to work (and I love that table by the way, Mark. I see some Greene and Greene influence in there?)

Waterlox is a very versatile finish. I use the original. It slowly loses gloss over a period of 6 to 9 months.

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