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Runs in Top Coat

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Forum topic by Chris Speights posted 508 days ago 525 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Chris Speights

120 posts in 953 days


508 days ago

I am doing a blanket chest and I had used GF Water Based stain. It went on great and I got the color depth I wanted, etc. I decided to spray on GF High Performance top coat to finish it off. Unfortunately, I did it right before the sun went down and it started getting pretty hard to see. Today, when i pulled it back out into the drive way (I work in garage, so spray in drive way), I noticed a few runs. I attempted to sand them out very lightly. In the end, I ended up taking the stain off in a few areas.

So, I have two questions…

First, how do I fix it?

Second, if I get runs in the future, how do I go about fixing the runs without taking off the stain?

Thanks in advance,

Chris


6 replies so far

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Cosmicsniper

2199 posts in 1755 days


#1 posted 508 days ago

Redo is the best.

However, you might try sanding back the area where you took off color just enough to “feather” the area a bit. You don’t want hard lines. Then, apply some stain to the wood, followed by some GF HP.

If you still see the error, mix a little of the GF HP with a little bit of the GF stain you used. Spray it on like an airbrush (very little volume with the sprayer) and spray just that area concentrating on the contrasting color spots. Once built up level with the rest of the work, spray the entire piece with the mixture if needed. It will darken the piece slightly, and somewhat conceal the grain a little, but it will also help cover over the error if you do it right.

The good part is that if you screw it up, you were going to strip it anyway. :)

Seriously, this is the type of thing that teaches. Sanding back and redoing isn’t always a bad thing because you get a chance to learn a lot by experimenting.

-- jay, www.allaboutastro.com

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Cosmicsniper

2199 posts in 1755 days


#2 posted 508 days ago

BTW, next time, use a seal coat of dewaxed shellac between the two products. This will help protect the stain should you get the occasional run. Likewise, don’t spray in the dark…and if you do, do a light, fast coat only.

One more thing, with water-borne, you have a little burn-in time if you don’t wait too long, meaning that the new stuff will partially melt into the old stuff, helping with the feathering.

-- jay, www.allaboutastro.com

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404 - Not Found

2544 posts in 1565 days


#3 posted 508 days ago

Can’t comment on the stain issue but I can offer advce on the runs. Take a freshly sharpened broad chisel to cut off any drips in the finish, lay it flat and it won’t dig in. Then start sanding. This will avoid sanding through spots either side of the drip which has happened to me before.

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Cosmicsniper

2199 posts in 1755 days


#4 posted 508 days ago

Great point, Renners. This is typically the way I handle runs as well. Light scraping with a card scraper works too.

-- jay, www.allaboutastro.com

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Dark_Lightning

1667 posts in 1705 days


#5 posted 508 days ago

The auto body and paint industry has tools for taking runs out of clear coat without cutting into the (perhaps impossible to reproduce) lower layer, such as custom flames. You should be able to use these-

http://www.tcpglobal.com/autobodydepot/runnib.aspx

I also paint my vehicles with lacquer, so the tools can do double duty…lacquer is easy to make runs in.

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Chris Speights

120 posts in 953 days


#6 posted 500 days ago

Thank you all so much for your help. I am sorry for the delay in responding. We’re getting ready to move and just listed the house this past week…hectic!

Anyway, I employed a little bit of all the information you guys suggested. I shaved off the “extra drips” with a razor blade, sanded it back really smooth. Mixed up some of the stain with the top coat. I did a few thin coats. Sanding EXTRA lightly between coats. Then, went back to the pure top coat for two more rounds. It worked out beautifully. I will get the project posted soon.

Thank you all, again!

Chris

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