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New To Veneering - How Do I Venner A Cylinder?

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Forum topic by rrww posted 02-27-2013 03:40 PM 969 views 0 times favorited 5 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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rrww

263 posts in 780 days


02-27-2013 03:40 PM

Topic tags/keywords: veneer

I have never worked with veneer before and I don’t have any veneer supplies. I have a round cylinder 30” tall and about 12” accross & it has to be covered with oak veneer. The cylinder is MDF. The top and bottom will be solid oak.

Whats the difference between the paperbacked & adhesive backed veneers? I’m a little confused about which one to get. I don’t have a vac system, am I going to need a bag & pump?

I’m not totally against getting a vac setup, but I would like to play around a little more before shelling out the cash for a decent setup.

Thanks for the help


5 replies so far

View Loren's profile

Loren

7625 posts in 2314 days


#1 posted 02-27-2013 03:59 PM

Contact cement. Be careful not to get bubbles under the
veneer. Use paper backed. Veneering cylinders with a
vacuum bag is problematic.

I’ve never used adhesive backed veneer but I assume it
is paperbacked with a peel and stick adhesive.

You can also apply PVA glue to both surfaces, let it
dry, then use an iron to reactivate the glue and
stick the veneer to the cylinder.

-- http://lawoodworking.com

View RussellAP's profile

RussellAP

2954 posts in 953 days


#2 posted 02-27-2013 04:14 PM

If you have a lathe, buy some oak. Much easier. I’d even invest in a lathe before I tried veneer.
I’d start one end with some CA, then when that dries you can wrap the cylinder easier and use the proper veneer glue, which if I’m not mistaken is a white glue of some type. You can trim the end off when it’s dry and tack that down with some clamps. Thing is, when it dries, it will want to shrink and there isn’t much you can do except leave the end long and trim it after the glue dries.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

View Earlextech's profile

Earlextech

986 posts in 1357 days


#3 posted 02-27-2013 04:16 PM

I’m with Loren on this.

As for the seam. Make yourself a seaming jig out of solid wood. It should be 32” long so it extends beyond the cylinder. 1” wide and 1/4” thick down to zero across the 1” direction. Laminate the 1/4” edge with mica.

Once you have glued most of the veneer to the cylinder lay your jig across it with the 1/4” edge up against the already stuck down edge of veneer. Roll the loose veneer over the jig and using a flush trim bit in a router against the 1/4” edge trim the veneer off. Sand that edge you just cut so there is no loose paper underneath. Now fold that edge up against the original edge of veneer and press in place. Comes out perfect everytime.

-- Sam Hamory - The project is never finished until its "finished"!

View Hammerthumb's profile

Hammerthumb

1330 posts in 642 days


#4 posted 02-27-2013 04:26 PM

I have seen this done using strips of old inner tube rubber from bicicyle tires that are wrapped
Around the cylinder with wax paper between the veneer and the rubber. No
Vacuum needed.

-- Paul, Las Vegas

View shipwright's profile

shipwright

5007 posts in 1464 days


#5 posted 02-27-2013 04:42 PM

Use real veneer. Paper backed is so thin you will never be able to sand it.
There are real advantages to using liquid hide glue here. I ‘d recommend Old Brown Glue but that’s a personal choice.
Apply the LHG to the cylinder. Then wrap a piece of veneer long enough to overlap at the seam and secure with a wide elastic strip (available at drug stores for exercise aids). After allowing the glue to cure and stabilize dimensionally (24hours), remove the strip and cut down the overlapped area with a razor blade making sure you are cutting both layers. Now a little warm water on a cloth will allow you to remove the outer scrap, lift the edge, and remove the inner scrap and reset the seam. The fit will be perfect.

-- Paul M ..............If God wanted us to have fiberglass boats he would have given us fiberglass trees. http://prmdesigns.com/

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