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Overhead pin router

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Forum topic by liketosail posted 550 days ago 2139 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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liketosail

31 posts in 574 days


550 days ago

Does anyone have one of these and can tell me more about them?

This is what it should look like wheni I have it all back together. I had to take it apart to load it in my truck.


8 replies so far

View Loren's profile

Loren

7431 posts in 2281 days


#1 posted 550 days ago

They are useful for a pro. I have one. It’s very useful
for duplicating irregular parts from tempates and for
making forms for bent laminations.

The machine pretty much stays set up for duplication
using a pattern stuck to the bottom of the work
piece that rides against the pin in the table. The
spindle if directly aligned with the pin and so
the pattern does not interfere with the cuts
or get damaged. Pattern cuts can be made in
depth stages and a 3hp pin router will
feel about 3 times more as powerful than
a 3hp hand held router.

You can use it with a fence to plow grooves.

The machines are regarded by many as dangerous.
They are perhaps a little difficult to guard well
in a way that doesn’t interfere with vision
or feeding of the work piece.

They are used a lot by electric guitar builders
for routing body shapes and cavities.

Inverted pin routers are simpler to use safely
and command higher prices on the used market.

-- http://lawoodworking.com

View Charles Wilson's profile

Charles Wilson

17 posts in 2404 days


#2 posted 550 days ago

I have two and find it a versatile piece of equipment.
As Loren said ,template or pattern work is a main use for most owners. I use mine for a variety of other uses as well,including grooving dado and rabit work as well as fluting. With a few simple jigs and setups a lot of work can be done with this type of machine. I consider them to be much more useful than a router table. As far as safety. is concerned ,care should be used as with any machine. Both my routers have a ring type guard around the spindle/bit which improves safety.

CW

View liketosail's profile

liketosail

31 posts in 574 days


#3 posted 550 days ago

Thanks for the information, I drove 300 miles one way to buy this and plan to use it a lot in the future .
It is 3 phase and I got to see it run before I took it.
It was only $300.00 dollars so I believe it was a great buy.
I do need a manual and a few other things.

View DKV's profile

DKV

3076 posts in 1137 days


#4 posted 550 days ago

Loren and Charles, the concept sounds interesting. It seems people can make their own. Tell us more what you use them for.
Thanks

-- 2014 will be a different year...at least for me it will.

View Loren's profile

Loren

7431 posts in 2281 days


#5 posted 550 days ago

I’d like to know more about Charles’s jigs.

I have never seen any manual or instructional
video for pin router methods.

I have a smaller one too, a light model used in the
printing industry. I used to use it with small cutters
for slotting guitar bridges and making freehand
router jigs with slots for template bushings.

The one I use now is a 2hp Invicta model similar
to the JET shown.

Pin routers excel at making quick slotting cuts
that otherwise involve more fussy topside
router setups.

They can also bore holes really fast with the
pneumatic plunge. Chair legs can be shaped
and mortised quickly for joinery and back
rungs using templates.

The pin router at a given depth routes
every part to the same depth, no matter
what its thickness or irregularity on top.
A regular router or router table or inverted
pin router indexes depth by the depth of
the cutter.

-- http://lawoodworking.com

View kizerpea's profile

kizerpea

746 posts in 1000 days


#6 posted 550 days ago

I have the shopsmith over arm pin router…dont use it much…but it comes in handy when i need it

-- IF YOUR NOT MAKING DUST...YOU ARE COLLECTING IT! SOUTH CAROLINA.

View helluvawreck's profile

helluvawreck

15623 posts in 1500 days


#7 posted 550 days ago

We had several over the years. You can get them for a reasonable price at industrial auctions. Although you may not use one everyday they are quite handy to have and an industrial model can do some heavy routing.

helluvawreck aka Charles
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com

-- If a man does not keep pace with his companions, perhaps it is because he hears a different drummer. Let him step to the music which he hears, however measured or far away. Henry David Thoreau

View Charles Wilson's profile

Charles Wilson

17 posts in 2404 days


#8 posted 549 days ago

Here is a quick shot of one of my routers. Old iron for sure, but still has a lot of life left in it.

Loren,

I don’t have any pictures of the jigs I use,most of the time I just run one up as needed.
An important thing to remember is the relationship of the “pin to the bit. A pin with the exact diameter as the cutter is the easiest place to start.
1. trimming an overhanging veneer to a substrate. (use a starting block clamped to the table)
2. a fast and easy way to cut evenly spaced dadoes for shelves or dividers.(tack strips or blocks the the underside of an oversize piece of MDF using your parts as spacers for an exact fit the using stops or clamps to secure workpiece to the other side.)
3.using the same concept tack scrap to the underside of a workpiece to define cutouts or recesses for inlays or hardware.

Now if you change the bit to pin relationship by using a smaller pit than bit ,instant rabbit or stepped cut. Take that a little further and mortices and inlays can be cut with the same template.

A fence clamped to the table allows many joint type cuts dado grooves etc. Adding spacers to the fence setup allows evenly spaced or uneven spaced cuts to be made quickly, I use this for making fluted pilasters for furniture or door casing.

If you have any specific tasks in mind, let me know and I will try and take some pics or video to better explain.

CW

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