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Forum topic by shelly_b posted 519 days ago 555 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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shelly_b

841 posts in 720 days


519 days ago

I am making shelves for a family member. They will be made of red oak and will wrap around the room except the wall with the door. There will be 2 14ft sections and 2 11ft sections and all 10in wide. I have a design picked out, but I was wondering if I should put a verticle peice either in front or back on the bottom side of the shelf to help prevent any unwanted warping, bowing, twisting, etc. I am still undecided on how many sections to make. I was going to do 2 for each wall…but am now thinking maybe 3 for the 14fters and 2 for the 10s….the wood is sitting in the shop right now finishing drying so I have been doing alot of thinking lol. I am just really worried about it moving the wrong way. I have my design picked out and have already made a template for the right angle supports that will go under the shelf. Just incase I made this too confusing I looked up some pics to help explain my questions. Thanks for helping!
with:
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bdJYQ2V0hT0/T9eR94FCq9I/AAAAAAAANNo/cjjMgXA47rg/s1600/130041507959804706_a5WwNolA_f.jpg
without:
http://www.greenintheghetto.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/IMG_2515s-300x223.jpg


8 replies so far

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shelly_b

841 posts in 720 days


#1 posted 519 days ago

I guess I have one more question. I would like it to look like 1 continous board. I will be mitering them at the corner but just butting them against each other at the ends. I was thinking about maybe using dowels, but not glueing them so you can disassemble them if needed. But I have no idea how to hide the joints….and I thought a shelving project would be simple!

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nailbanger2

952 posts in 1746 days


#2 posted 519 days ago

I think what you are talking about is a Ledger Board, and yes, I believe it’s a good idea. As to the joints, I’ve used a Kreg jig and pocket hole screws for similar projects.

-- Wish I were Norm's Nephew

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Gene Howe

5414 posts in 2031 days


#3 posted 519 days ago

Acclimatized red oak is one of the most stable of woods. Once it’s dry, cut it to rough length and width, then take it into the room in which it will reside and let it set, stickered for a couple weeks. Whatever movement it wants to make will be it’s last. You could get by with two ea 7’ for the 14’ run. For the 10’, two is fine.

Using solid wood might not be the best design for shelving, however. Cabinet grade 3/4” oak faced ply would be a better option. Face the front edges with a 1 or 1-1/4 X 3/4 piece to strengthen the shelf and to hide the ply edge. Then, nestle the supports just behind the lip, making sure the front end of the support is hidden by the lip.

EDIT: Just saw your last post. You can plan your cuts to coincide with the supports to hide the joints.

-- Gene 'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton

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shelly_b

841 posts in 720 days


#4 posted 519 days ago

Thanks nailbanger. I have a kreg jig but never thought of that. That would work great and just not glue it. I will be joining end grain to end grain, but it doesn’t have to be a strong joint. And thanks for giving me the correct term. Since I am self taught, I am horrible with the terminology!
Gene-I wish I could use only 1 board, but b/c of defects and such I think I am going to have to join them to get the correct width. I thought about plywood and how simple that would make this, but she wants solid wood. I was planning on the supports coinciding with the joints so I guess the end is the only part of the joint you will be able to see which wont be too bad.
Thanks guys!

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Gene Howe

5414 posts in 2031 days


#5 posted 519 days ago

Well now, that’s another fettle of kish! A glued up panel is much more stable than a solid board, anyway. Don’t worry too much about warpage.
If the design permits, you could make your supports wrap up 3/4” to cover that part of the joint.

-- Gene 'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton

View Roger's profile

Roger

14161 posts in 1406 days


#6 posted 519 days ago

Looks like a heck of a shelf project. I’m not educated nuff to give you any advice, but, I will say, I know you can do a fine, fine job with whatever way you do it, and, it will look fantastic, I’m sure. :)

-- Roger from KY. Work/Play/Travel Safe. Kentuk55@bellsouth.net

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runswithscissors

897 posts in 627 days


#7 posted 519 days ago

I am not a fan of the pocket screws (Kreg jig), though I have used them. For joining your boards end to end, I’d prefer dowels (not a fan of them, either, but for this particular use . . .). I’d glue the dowels in one board, but not in the other. And the holes in the unglued board ought to be 1/64” oversize, maybe more. The idea is that if the dowels swell, you may never get your shelves disassembled, which you say you’d like to be able to do.

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shelly_b

841 posts in 720 days


#8 posted 518 days ago

You guys have helped alot! thankyou!! I really tend to over think things too much.
Thankyou Roger:) I hope!
Scotsman-I don’t have a biscuit joiner…but I want one lol
Runwithscissors-The dowel idea was my first idea. I’m glad you mentioned making the hole larger incase it swells b/c I didn’t think of that. My first thought was to make them as tight as possible so it would hold tight without glue lol.

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