LumberJocks

Leveling legs for the Ridgid TS 4512

  • Advertise with us

« back to Woodworking Skill Share forum

Forum topic by muddyboggy posted 02-23-2013 06:56 PM 1381 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View muddyboggy's profile

muddyboggy

20 posts in 1405 days


02-23-2013 06:56 PM

Does anyone have a solution to leveling a Ridgid 4512? My garage floor is so uneven that my new outfeed table and saw can’t be leveled without everything running downhill to one corner. The opposing corner of the of the outfeed table is 1 1/2’’ above the floor when it is in line with the saw table! It would be nice for it to be earth level but there isn’t any way to level the saw itself. Any tips on adding levelers to the saw legs?


9 replies so far

View needshave's profile

needshave

151 posts in 1425 days


#1 posted 02-23-2013 07:09 PM

Mud,

Not sure what you table saw legs look like.

However, If you have a concrete floor in your shop, consider floating in a leveling concrete. The concrete is for the most part self leveling and is formulated to be workable down to a very thin crossection. I think HD carries it.

Beyond that, Grizzly carrires some really nice leveling pads for machinery. If I remember correctly they have 3” of adjust ability so you could certainly adapt to your table saw and outfeed table. the Leveling feet or pads can be found in their catalog, but difficult to find.

View Tennessee's profile

Tennessee

2410 posts in 1980 days


#2 posted 02-23-2013 07:09 PM

I have that table saw, and I am unaware of any. I think there are holes in the bottom you could buy leverers? I don’t remember. My solution was a shim under one leg, to be honest. I also have a flooring problem.

-- Paul, Tennessee, http://www.tsunamiguitars.com

View muddyboggy's profile

muddyboggy

20 posts in 1405 days


#3 posted 02-23-2013 07:23 PM

The legs are open without an actual bottom. I have a bunch of leveling pads but no place to install the without welding or bending metal to fit the open ‘C’ shape of the legs. I shimmed under my saw and have 1” on one corner, 3/4” on the next and 1/4” on the third with the 4th leg on the concrete. needshave, my garage used to be a carport and the slab was poured to provide drainage. It slopes almost 2” from back to front and 1” from side to side. It would take a lot of leveling concrete to provide a fix.

View needshave's profile

needshave

151 posts in 1425 days


#4 posted 02-23-2013 07:41 PM

Mud,

I forgot about this. I was just back in the back of the shop and my fathers old radial arm saw is back there. He had a similar problem. Here is what he did. He cut a square of 3/4” plywood, set the saw base in the middle of it then cut 1×2” cleats that went around the entire saw base to keep the saw captured to the plywood base. He then used levelers. mounted thru the plywood base to level the saw. It would work. You could replace the levelers, by shimming up the plywood base until you had it exactly where and how you wanted, then cuts board to fit under the base to the exact taper you may need then glue and crew to base. It would be right. But if you moved it, it would be wrong. levelers would allow the adjust ability.

View muddyboggy's profile

muddyboggy

20 posts in 1405 days


#5 posted 02-24-2013 01:15 AM

needshave, that is an excellent suggestion. I have levelers that will fit on a flat base and can be readjusted when the saw is moved since it is in the middle of the garage next to the overhead door. It would be nice to build a shop, but my place is on the side of a hill with the only semi flat spot at the house. One end of my front porch is knee high while the other is almost six feet above the ground.

View needshave's profile

needshave

151 posts in 1425 days


#6 posted 02-24-2013 06:42 PM

Great, Hope it works well for you. I lived on a hill when I was growing up as well.

View USMCSergeant's profile

USMCSergeant

28 posts in 1421 days


#7 posted 03-06-2013 05:12 AM

I had this problem with the 4512. My solution was to loosen the bolts on the legs – every one of them. Then use the step to raise the saw, and then dropped the saw back down. After 3 times the legs leveled and I cranked down the screws.

View 1yeldud1's profile

1yeldud1

301 posts in 2508 days


#8 posted 03-06-2013 11:02 AM

I have 4 hockey puck shaped discs that I place under my table saw legs then just “drop the saw” onto when it is where I want it. If your floor is uneven just experiment as to what thickness spacer should go under what leg and then position your saw and take a majic marker and mark your floor where the spacers should go. Each time you move your saw place it back over these marks, place the correct puck with each leg let the saw down and it should me level.

View muddyboggy's profile

muddyboggy

20 posts in 1405 days


#9 posted 03-08-2013 04:27 AM

USMCSergeant thank you for your tip. 1yeldud1, that is a great idea, thank you for your tip as well! I have built a platform as suggested by needshave and it is working great.

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com