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How to shorten a 2 x 4 joist made from old pine

2K views 28 replies 16 participants last post by  JoeinGa 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Hello,
I am replacing a 2×4 (actual dimensions) load bearing wall stud in my house because the original was cut to make way for an AC return. The wood in question is from the original framing, which would make it 120 years old, and very hard. The stud is 106 7/8" high, and the replacement stud I made by joining two other stud pieces together is longer by about 1/16 - 1/8". I don't want to bang the stud in place too forcefully because I don't want to damage the plaster and lath, so I need to shorten the joist. I don't want to bring the stud down 3 flights of stairs to my table saw again… is there an easy way to shorten the joist in place?

Thank you!

Thank you everyone for the range of opinions expressed. Can anyone recommend an online reference for framing that may contain information about when it is appropriate to replace versus sister a stud? I have a feeling this is not the only stud in my house that will require repair.
 
#4 · (Edited by Moderator)
Jorgensen Pony Japanese type pull saw.
I cut 16 4×4 posts with one of these.
Amazing how easy it is to cut, especially when trying to get a thin cut off the end.

Cheaper alternative, Stanley "Sharp Tooth" standard western type saw.
Sells for about $12. Goofy plastic tote and all.

Wait a minute. You said "stud" in one sentence and "joist" in another. Which is it?
I was referring to shortening a stud.
 
#5 ·
i'm a ittle confused as well. You would want to take an 1/8" off the stud. You can even make it just a hair short and shim it tight.

When you say you made a new "stud" by joining 2, how did you join them?
 
#6 ·
*note: I mean "stud" not "joist". Re: renners note, I could perhaps plane the ceiling joist a little where the stud meets it. It would be much easier to plane the joist instead of the end grain of the stud. I would prefer, however, to shorten the stud if I can do so w/out too much hassle. I suppose I could bring it back down to the table saw.

Re: Japanese style pull saw, I love these saws and used one extensively to cut through studs when I was doing demolition. I don't think though that I would be able to trim 1/16" evenly across the surface of this piece of wood.

Another thought I had was what about a really sharp block plane? I read that if the blade is sharpened properly, it should be able to cut shavings off of end grain.
 
#7 ·
Yes, I could shim it tight, if necessary. I joined a 6' and 3' stud of similar thicknesses by sandwiching them between two 25" pieces of scrap stud and then nailing those scrap pieces onto the main studs. That should provide enough lateral support. Any other way to join the studs? I do have a couple more in the house to fix, and I'm trying to use the same old wood to fix studs, where possible.
 
#10 ·
2×4 actual doesn't have such a huge amount more strength than modern "2×4" that is 1.5×3.5, but I'd be very concerned about the strength of your joined stud. I'd be very surprised if it met code as the amount of lateral stress a stud is designed to handle would pop the nails. You'd be better off putting two modern studs in place of the old one you took out, each of them the full length. If you really want to match your old studs find similar full length material.
 
#11 ·
richard2345 - agreement with renners (wtf included) and Don W. Cut the stud to fit. Tim - I will assume that the studs on either side of his repair are intact. If thats the case then his method of sistering 2 - 25" pieces should be fine.
 
#13 ·
Up north we can get 2×4 studs for as cheap as a buck each. Just my 2 cents, but Id never sister up a wall stud when a new one is a buck. Id throw 2 new ones in and make boxes out of the 120 year old wood. :) Id burn the old wood before I would sister up a stud.
 
#14 ·
The Box Whisperer - agreed - but richard2345 was using the materials he had on hand. As long as the studs on either side of his repair are intact, his sistering method would be fine, maybe not prefered, but fine
 
#17 ·
The " stud I made by joining two other stud pieces" sounds like the turn down the wrong road to begin with.
I'm on the same page as joein10asee…..sorry, but cut it and get on with the rest of the project.
 
#18 ·
GaryL - agreed about turning down the wrong road to begin with. But it appears that he didn't have any full length studs to cut down…so he made his own from sistering two shorter ones, then made it too long. Posted a question about shaving down the joint to make it fit rather than cutting the stud. Most people (as I) would question his techniques, but what he did would work as long as the studs to either side of his repair job haven't been compromised….to each his own
 
#19 · (Edited by Moderator)
If I understand you right you want to header of a section of your studs to allow for a air return? In the northwest 2 story homes of a 100 years+ have what is called balloon framing. Unlike modern house framing where the first floor is built and then a second story is built on top of that,but the home builders of days gone by used studs that came from the first floor all the way up to the top plate on the second floor(balloon framing).The reason I brought all this up is if your cutting studs on a balloon framed house you can affect the up stairs walls and perhaps the upstairs floors strength. and if nothing else crack plaster or drywall. After taking all that into consideration and your sure your safe cutting studs,I would cut the studs by starting with a saw zaw(if your experienced with one) and finish with a multi- tool .If you feel you not well practiced with a saw zaw then I would take my time and use a multi-tool to cut the whole stud. When installing the new header use strong deck screws to put it back together this will help save the vibration of hammering nails.
 
#20 · (Edited by Moderator)
a1Jim - your solution would be correct but I think he is replacing a stud 106-7/8 (8'10-7/8"). He didn't have a full length stud to replace so he sistered two shorter ones together. But he sistered them an 1/8" longer and posted a question here asking if he could shave the joist to make it fit or cut the stud to fit. It seems his saw was three flights downstairs and didn't want to travel to it. He already sistered the pieces and although he technique isn't the best I think it would be ok if the studs to either side of his repair wasn't compromised given this is a load bearing wall.
 
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