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Forum topic by trippcasey posted 02-18-2013 08:15 AM 956 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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72 posts in 2093 days

02-18-2013 08:15 AM

Topic tags/keywords: router fence fence table saw extension question tip router

Hey guys and Gals,

First off, I just want to say thanks to many of you for the good information you guys post. This place is great. Ive recently found an interest in woodworking, and man has this placed helped me learn about all sorts of things; from tools, to jigs, to techniques, to even glues and sealers.

So, on to me plight. I have acquired some tools. Some decent and some… not so decent. One thing I really love is my table saw. I got a great deal on a shop fox w1677. I traded a boat motor that I bought for $100 two years ago and probably spent another $150 fixing. The saw was in decent shape. I got the table nice and clean and waxed back into great condition. It has a Biesemeyer type fence on it with some sort of plastic face on one side only. I am in the process of making a router table extension that will use the same fence as my table saw, and was just curious what kind of material I should use for the fence on the router side? My table is MDF. Would that work for the fence too? I want it a little taller than my fence now, but that could be a pain with some over fence jigs for my table saw. Im not sure. Ive only been at this for about 2 months and I find many many different things people have done, but none really like I am wanting to do. I like cheap, but I want durability and accuracy as well. Those are worth paying and extra dime for.

Thanks in Advance!

-- I almost post pics....until I see the daily top three...then I delete my post.

6 replies so far

View Monte Pittman's profile

Monte Pittman

29934 posts in 2507 days

#1 posted 02-18-2013 10:09 AM

Welcome to LJ’s

MDF would work fine for the fence. I would use at least 3/4” stock and 1” if available. You just want it solid with no flex.

-- Nature created it, I just assemble it.

View GrandpaLen's profile


1651 posts in 2441 days

#2 posted 02-18-2013 11:21 AM


Welcome to LumberJocks , a world of advise, opinions, and experiences, all shared without judgement.

MDF, properly supported/attached to your TS fence and squared perpendicular to your table should work just fine.

Work Safely and have Fun. – Grandpa Len.

-- Mother Nature should be proud of what you've done with her tree. - Len ...just north of a stone's throw from the oHIo, river that is, in So. Indiana.

View trippcasey's profile


72 posts in 2093 days

#3 posted 02-18-2013 01:21 PM

Thanks guys. Sorry for the amateurish post. I appreciate your replies. Also, would a thick acrylic plexiglass be sufficient for a 2hp router base? Ive seen guys on a few of these sites use something that looks like acrylic, but I wasnt sure if it was that or something similar.

-- I almost post pics....until I see the daily top three...then I delete my post.

View BacktotheWood's profile


125 posts in 3191 days

#4 posted 02-18-2013 01:44 PM

Welcome to LJ’s.
Here no question is amateurish. We all started someplace and got to wherever we are with help.

My table is MDF. Would that work for the fence too? I want it a little taller than my fence now, but that could be a pain with some over fence jigs for my table saw.

As the others have said, MDF is fine. The part about wanting a little taller than the fence than you have could be solved by making the router fence removable for when you want to use over the fence jigs. I know that there are clamps that can go into holes in a backer board for the attached fence. I found a photo on Amazon and they are from Rockler. Here is the link,


-- Bob, --Silence & smile are two powerful tools. Smile is the way to solve many problems & Silence is the way to avoid many problems.

View bondogaposis's profile


5039 posts in 2520 days

#5 posted 02-18-2013 01:45 PM

Welcome to LJ. MDF will work fine for a router fence. That is what I use on my router table. The plexiglass router plate may not be adequate as they tend to sag under the weight of the router. Then you have a slight dish in the router table surface. It will take some time to develop, you could plan on replacing it periodically. I think an aluminum one is a better permanent solution, they can be purchased from many sources.

-- Bondo Gaposis

View JesseTutt's profile


854 posts in 2280 days

#6 posted 02-18-2013 04:08 PM

If you are going to use MDF for the table top, be wary because it will eventually bow (from personal experience). I would suggest at least two layers of 3/4 inch MDF laminated together. On the top you want something slippery like laminate. You also want to put the same material on the bottom so it will not warp. Depending on how you attach the router and access it from beneath the table you could add a couple of 2×2s to add additional strength.

As for the fence, I assume you want to use the table saw’s fence on the router. You will want to build out the router fence so that you can bury part to most of the bit for edge cuts. If you want to do raised panel doors for cabinets, the bit can be 3 inches in diameter. I would suggest at least a 2 inch build out. Also, different bits have different profiles so you want to consider a removable insert that could be in the shape of the bi (like a zero clearance insert on a table saw).

Finally, you might want to locate the router on the top so that the table saw fence’s ruler would be easy to use. For instance, if you wanted to make a dado 2 1/4 inches from the edge and the router bit was set at the fences 20 inch mark then you simply add 2 1/4 to 20. If the router was at the 17 5/16s mark you would have to add 17 5/16 to 2 1/4 – harder math.

If you are going with a router base, consider clear plastic so you can see the router.

-- Jesse, Saint Louis, Missouri

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