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Have a Woodtek 24 scroll saw - cutting thick wood

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Forum topic by oldsmoothy posted 02-14-2013 06:07 PM 1993 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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oldsmoothy

31 posts in 1347 days


02-14-2013 06:07 PM

I have the Woodtek 24 scroll saw and I am trying to cut 1 3/4” thick soft maple. The shape I’m cutting is a dog outline, then I cut the dog outline into 4 puzzle pieces. (approximately 8” x 9”) I started by using a 2×12 (pine) and cut 8 out of a 2×12 with very little difficulty but then the trouble started. I started cutting the maple and the first few were fine, then I sheared off a bolt that connects the blade arms to the motor, then sheared another. Then I stripped out the weighted fly-wheel that the bolt connects to.

My question, am I moving the piece too quickly? Or have I overloaded my saw? I talked directly to Woodtek and they feel that while the thickness is on the topside of it’s capablities it still should be fine.

I have cut 6 of these puzzles and need to cut 14 more, any thoughts?

-- OS, Burleson, TX


8 replies so far

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SASmith

1607 posts in 1677 days


#1 posted 02-14-2013 10:50 PM

Not sure what blades you are using, but I have had no problem cutting 1.5” thick hard wood with the “heavy duty” blades from here.

-- Scott Smith, Southern Illinois

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oldsmoothy

31 posts in 1347 days


#2 posted 02-19-2013 10:24 PM

SASmith,
thanks for the source. Which blade would you recommend? I’m cutting 1 3/4” soft maple.

-- OS, Burleson, TX

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Jim Finn

1700 posts in 1612 days


#3 posted 02-19-2013 10:37 PM

I have used the heavy duty blades from FD and find they are no better than their #7 for cutting wood that thick. I prefer the #7’ polar blades. In my experience production type cutting on thick wood like that is hard on the saw. I wore out a DeWalt in 20 months doing that. I now have a Hegner and it can handle work like this. I have had mine 3 years now and it is going strong.

-- In God We Trust

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William

9149 posts in 1533 days


#4 posted 02-25-2013 01:29 PM

There are blades made specifically for thicker woods. However, I try to limit anything over three quarters of an inch to rarely ever done on the scroll saw. It is hard on the blades, hard on the saw, and hard on the user. Is it possible to do these pieces on a bandsaw?

-- http://wddsrfinewoodworks.blogspot.com/

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oldsmoothy

31 posts in 1347 days


#5 posted 02-25-2013 08:32 PM

William,
I haven’t thought about using my bandsaw. I would need to get a blade, some of the turns are somewhat tight. I have 9 of the puzzles cut need 11 more.

-- OS, Burleson, TX

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oldsmoothy

31 posts in 1347 days


#6 posted 02-25-2013 08:32 PM

Jim,
thanks for the input, I have 11 more to go, hopefully my saw will last.

-- OS, Burleson, TX

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runswithscissors

1024 posts in 715 days


#7 posted 02-25-2013 09:32 PM

Many bandsaws will take a 1/8” blade, but of course the kerf will be a bit wider than on a scroll saw.

-- I admit to being an adrenaline junky; fortunately, I'm very easily frightened

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William

9149 posts in 1533 days


#8 posted 02-26-2013 12:55 AM

If a band saw kerf is too thick, or won’t do tight enough turns, there is one saw that I trust to do thick wood with. I have an old Craftsman 16” direct drive saw. Actually I have three. I have paid five dollars at the most for them at yard sales. I’ve cut wood close to two and a half inches thick with that thing at it hasn’t ever given me a moment’s trouble. They only take pinned blades, but they are almost indestructible. They only have one speed. If you’re going to be cutting wood that thick often though, and you ever see one at a yard sale, offer five or ten bucks for it.

-- http://wddsrfinewoodworks.blogspot.com/

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