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SCARY SHARP

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Forum topic by Straightbowed posted 02-12-2013 12:39 AM 1198 views 1 time favorited 27 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Straightbowed

717 posts in 985 days


02-12-2013 12:39 AM

WHAT is the best way to get your plane scary sharp on a Roman Noodle budjet besides 2000 grit sandpaper and $100 stones

-- Stevo, work in tha city woodshop in the country


27 replies so far

View paratrooper34's profile

paratrooper34

760 posts in 1639 days


#1 posted 02-12-2013 12:44 AM

I would say you should figure out what your budget is and start from there. Once you determine how much you can spend, you can figure out what you can purchase to get you where you want to be.

I understand you want to do it on the cheap, so if you could provide a budget amount, we may be more able to point you in the right direction.

-- Mike

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Straightbowed

717 posts in 985 days


#2 posted 02-12-2013 12:44 AM

well hell I forgot I already commented on and know about scary sharp but really I was wondering about diamond paste and what type of steel you can use or does any steel flat work or does it need a lite tooling mark or marks to help the paste to inbed for sharpening thatnks for any replies

-- Stevo, work in tha city woodshop in the country

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Straightbowed

717 posts in 985 days


#3 posted 02-12-2013 12:47 AM

I just woke up I work nights so you have to look over me just throw some suggestions Im open to any

-- Stevo, work in tha city woodshop in the country

View HorizontalMike's profile

HorizontalMike

6948 posts in 1601 days


#4 posted 02-12-2013 12:50 AM

I have to say that I have had great success with 220, 320, 600grit and then a BLACK Arkansas stone. All on a HD Granite tile (about $4.50). I have now moved beyond that, but that is enough to do very well.

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

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bobasaurus

1303 posts in 1871 days


#5 posted 02-12-2013 12:50 AM

Waterstones are my favorite. You can get them pretty cheap. You’ll want at least 8k grit for proper plane sharpening. All you really need is one coarse and one super fine.

-- Allen, Colorado

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Benvolio

134 posts in 618 days


#6 posted 02-12-2013 01:06 AM

I just finished with using papers. I really didn’t find it that cheap – 2500 frit paper is expensive and it gets clogged with iron swarf so quickly it stops being effective super quickly.

I recently invested in waterstone set – surprisingly inexpensive for the course grits.

Maybe finish off by stopping after 1000 grit?

-- Ben, England.

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JNP

106 posts in 1264 days


#7 posted 02-12-2013 01:15 AM

I went through the same process wanting cheap, easy, quality…can’t be done. The paper seems the cheaper route but the cost of it really adds up. I’m going to do the DMT diamond stones and call it a day. Much more convenient and I’m sure will be cheaper in the longer run.

-- Jeff

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HorizontalMike

6948 posts in 1601 days


#8 posted 02-12-2013 01:49 AM

Benvolio,
No offense, but if you are going to 2500-grit with paper, then IMO you are drinking too much of the KoolAid. After 600-grit, I find the brown grocery sack paper (~3,000-grit) to be MORE than enough, AND IT IS CHEAP!

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

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Benvolio

134 posts in 618 days


#9 posted 02-12-2013 02:01 AM

HorizontalMike – no offence taken. I couldn’t actually find a lot of material online to guide me on how to sandpaper sharpen. I just figured the finer the grit, the better (and by jove was it sharp!!)

you’ll laugh as well when I tell you my regimen was:

120
180
220
240
320
400
600
800
1000
1600
2000
2500

I found out recently I could have skipped a couple of stages.

we live and learn.

-- Ben, England.

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Straightbowed

717 posts in 985 days


#10 posted 02-12-2013 03:32 AM

gee guys the hidden Question was WHAT ABOUT THA DIAMOND PASTE????? how do you like it? I just went outside and used some .05 micron on my tablesaw wing with my plane blade but the plane was sharp with 2000 grit paper, to start now it will cut with the blade set very fine on a stanley NO 3 at .0005 thats what I measured with my calipers on cherry wood but I really didn’t set it as fine as I could I just set it to take a lighter shave but I was lookin for something special that someone mite know the little secret but mainly planeing with the grain is the most important thing as I was using some oak and with or against the grain oak really lets you know the way the grain is

-- Stevo, work in tha city woodshop in the country

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Don W

15230 posts in 1255 days


#11 posted 02-12-2013 03:45 AM

I do 90% of my sharpening with a $60 home depot grinder, a $55 aluminum oxide wheel for the grinder and an $18 flea market oil stone. I made a strop for stripping the burr but Mikes idea with the brown paper will work as well.

I’ve got more expensive equipment but keep coming back to the process above.

-- Master hand plane hoarder. - http://timetestedtools.com

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Straightbowed

717 posts in 985 days


#12 posted 02-12-2013 05:48 PM

Hey horizontal MIKEY
what the hell is brown sac paper on the cheapside???

-- Stevo, work in tha city woodshop in the country

View HorizontalMike's profile

HorizontalMike

6948 posts in 1601 days


#13 posted 02-14-2013 10:11 PM

Here you go Straightbowed, 35in X 140ft for $10.97 and I do call that cheap. And it is wide enough to cover my workbench.

Trimaco 35 in. x 140 ft. Brown Builder's Paper

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

View Milo's profile

Milo

859 posts in 2006 days


#14 posted 02-14-2013 10:15 PM

Straightbowed,

I odn’t even know what diamond paste is, but I think you would be happier in the long run to buy some Arkansas oil stones. They are not that expensive, and will last a lot longer. I plan on looking for some at the Tampa Woodworks show next month.

Milo

-- Beer, Beer, Thank God for Beer. It's my way of keeping my mind fresh and clear...

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ScottinTexas

108 posts in 635 days


#15 posted 02-15-2013 12:54 AM

Do you guys hold the blade angle by hand? I just can’t see how all this grit matters so much if you ARE going to be moving the blade angle no matter how much you try and the cutting edge will be thus rounded (albeit microscopically.)

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