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Ripping on a bandsaw

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Forum topic by lumberjoe posted 02-11-2013 08:24 PM 935 views 0 times favorited 29 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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lumberjoe

2833 posts in 901 days


02-11-2013 08:24 PM

I set up my bandsaw for some ripping operations on my lunch today. After some considerable tweaking, I can get perfectly straight rips. However the cut quality sucks. My only 2 blades are an Olson allpro 1/4” and an Olson allrpo 5/8” skip tooth resaw blade. I am obviously using the 5/8 blade, but as I mentioned, the cut quality is nasty. Is there a bandsaw blade that leaves a reasonably smooth finish after ripping?

-- www.etsy.com/shop/KandJWoodCrafts


29 replies so far

View PurpLev's profile

PurpLev

8476 posts in 2301 days


#1 posted 02-11-2013 08:28 PM

I am using the 1/2” woodslicer blade from highland woodworking and was getting surprisingly clean cuts on 12” resaws I’ve made.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

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SnowyRiver

51451 posts in 2133 days


#2 posted 02-11-2013 08:30 PM

The bandsaw blade has to be very sharp. I use a 1/2 inch blade, 4 TPI. Its is a Wood Slicer and I have had very good luck with it.

-- Wayne - Plymouth MN

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lumberjoe

2833 posts in 901 days


#3 posted 02-11-2013 08:32 PM

Seems like the 1/2 woodslicer is a good choice. I’ll have to look into that. With my 5/8” resaw blade, I get a pretty good cut quality on resewing, but terrible for ripping.

Is the woodslicer one of those low tension blades?

-- www.etsy.com/shop/KandJWoodCrafts

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b2rtch

4323 posts in 1701 days


#4 posted 02-11-2013 08:36 PM

I have a 1/2”x3TPI similar to wood slicer it works great.
Since I have installed my blade with the “bottom” of the gullet right in the center of the tire , I have no more drift.

-- Bert

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PurpLev

8476 posts in 2301 days


#5 posted 02-11-2013 08:36 PM

no. the WS it’s not a low tension blade.

consider that (obviously) the faster you rip, the poorer your cut quality will be. Also with bandsaw blades the blade sharpeness plays a much higher factor in the cut quality when compared with a TS.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

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lumberjoe

2833 posts in 901 days


#6 posted 02-11-2013 08:39 PM

The blade I am using now has been used 6 times. 4 of those were practice rip cuts to set up the fence.

-- www.etsy.com/shop/KandJWoodCrafts

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PurpLev

8476 posts in 2301 days


#7 posted 02-11-2013 08:41 PM

got pic (of rip cut quality)?

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View ChuckC's profile

ChuckC

691 posts in 1588 days


#8 posted 02-11-2013 08:48 PM

Is the cut rough or wavy? If you are getting a wavy cut and you centered the blade on the wheel try pushing the blade back on the wheel so the gullet of the blade is centered on the wheel. It will give more support to the teeth and will stop the blade from rocking, which cause a wavy cut.

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SPalm

4808 posts in 2535 days


#9 posted 02-11-2013 08:50 PM

Hey Joe, I have been using the Wood Slicer blades too. I just love it.

Now you are asking what is the smoothest cut? This blade does not give me the smoothest cut. That is not what I am looking for. I want a repeatable and accurate cut that I can trust. I can slice off 1/8” thick by 8” tall maple with ease time after time. Without getting hot. They are a little rough, but that is what a low tooth count blade will give you.

What I want it for is resaw, and not rip. I guess the only difference is the thickness of the cut. ??

Steve

-- -- I'm no rocket surgeon

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lumberjoe

2833 posts in 901 days


#10 posted 02-11-2013 08:54 PM

4/4 red oak

2×4

-- www.etsy.com/shop/KandJWoodCrafts

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Surfside

3147 posts in 826 days


#11 posted 02-11-2013 08:54 PM

Do you think it’s a tension problem or maybe incorrect installing of the blade or blade quality?. I have 1/2” 4TPI Haltbar blade. It works the best.

-- "someone has to be wounded for others to be saved, someone has to sacrifice for others to feel happiness, someone has to die so others could live"

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lumberjoe

2833 posts in 901 days


#12 posted 02-11-2013 08:57 PM

Chuck, I am getting a wavy cut. It’s slightly back of center, but I can move it back a little more if need be. I may try that.

Also on the guide bearings – how close should they be? there are many schools of thought. I am not getting any drift, however I may just be lucky because my fence is not perfectly square to the blade anymore. I shimmed the front rail to bring it down a bit.

-- www.etsy.com/shop/KandJWoodCrafts

View PurpLev's profile

PurpLev

8476 posts in 2301 days


#13 posted 02-11-2013 09:04 PM

it does look wavy.

try adjusting the blade so that the gullets are centered on the wheel.

As for the guides – I set them a paper thickness away from the blade (place a piece of paper between blade and move guide until it makes contact with paper).

that said, you could probably improve the cut quality, but you still won’t get a jointed surface quality so you’d still have to put it through a 2nd-stage to clean that up.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

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lumberjoe

2833 posts in 901 days


#14 posted 02-11-2013 09:06 PM

I’m ok with making a pass on the edge sander, but this is like 3 or 4 passes. Is getting the same quality rip that a good quality 24 tooth table saw blade produces possible with a bandsaw?

-- www.etsy.com/shop/KandJWoodCrafts

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PurpLev

8476 posts in 2301 days


#15 posted 02-11-2013 09:13 PM

technically I don’t think that’s possible because of the teeth geometry differences between the TS (carbide precision ground) vs. the band (teeth with SET in both direction, blade is flexible even with high tension), you would always have a lesser cut quality on the BS compared to a RIP blade on a TS. TS are originally a ripping machine – thats what they are designed to do. Bandsaws are a multiverse machine that can also rip to a certain degree (depth limitation and cut quality limits)

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

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