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Why does my resawn 1/8" veneer cup when glued?

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Forum topic by DustyJohn posted 02-11-2013 03:12 PM 1006 views 0 times favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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DustyJohn

19 posts in 588 days


02-11-2013 03:12 PM

I resawed some solid oak to 1/8” to use as veneer. As I glued it to my project, it cupped as it dried. Has anyone run into this before? What am I doing wrong. I must admit, I do not spread the glue evenly, just put beads down and wiggle it when applied to spread it.


11 replies so far

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bondogaposis

2524 posts in 1003 days


#1 posted 02-11-2013 03:25 PM

What are you gluing it to?

-- Bondo Gaposis

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DustyJohn

19 posts in 588 days


#2 posted 02-11-2013 03:37 PM

I had 4.5” pine door jambs in a closet. I sanded them before I applied the oak veneer.

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SamuraiSaw

454 posts in 616 days


#3 posted 02-11-2013 03:38 PM

What kind of glue are you using?

Open grain woods like oak do not like moisture and will react to it. You also need to spead the glue completely and evenly, then apply pressure across the entire area until the glue dries.

-- Artisan Woodworks of Texas.... www.awwtx.com

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bondogaposis

2524 posts in 1003 days


#4 posted 02-11-2013 03:53 PM

That is kind of an odd project, I’m not sure if what you are trying to do is even possible. Is the door jamb in place? The veneer cups because of the moisture in the glue causes the wood to expand on the glue side. You need to be able clamp the entire surface tightly while the glue cures. Contact cement might work for this type of glue up, then you won’t need to clamp it. You’ll need to roll it.

-- Bondo Gaposis

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DustyJohn

19 posts in 588 days


#5 posted 02-11-2013 03:54 PM

I use elmers glue, I have to save up just to be poor….

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SamuraiSaw

454 posts in 616 days


#6 posted 02-11-2013 04:20 PM

Bondo is spot on. There’s nothing wrong with Elmer’s per se, but it isn’t the glue of choice for this application. The moisture in the glue is working against you. Contact cement is your best option.

-- Artisan Woodworks of Texas.... www.awwtx.com

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Loren

7543 posts in 2299 days


#7 posted 02-11-2013 04:46 PM

Some little nails will hold it down as the glue dries. You can
pull them out later.

-- http://lawoodworking.com

View 404 - Not Found's profile

404 - Not Found

2544 posts in 1621 days


#8 posted 02-12-2013 01:05 AM

Wet the front with a damp cloth to even out the moisture as well. It will buckle if no pressure is applied. As it’s in a door jamb, you could use some pieces cut slightly wider than the opening and wedge across the opening to keep it in place while it dries.

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DustyJohn

19 posts in 588 days


#9 posted 02-12-2013 04:53 PM

Thank you everyone for the wisdom. I’m going to try all your advice.

View crank49's profile

crank49

3421 posts in 1622 days


#10 posted 02-12-2013 06:10 PM

Well, don’t try all the advice at the same time.

Wetting the front also, for instance, will NOT be a good idea if you use contact cement

Also, if you use contact cement be sure to use it according to the directions.
ESPECIALLY the part about letting the glue surfaces almost dry before putting them together.
I’ve seen many jobs fail in the shop because someone got in a hurry and stuck wet contact glue surfaces together. This will not work.

-- Michael :-{| “If you tell a big enough lie and tell it frequently enough, it will be believed.” ― A H

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MrRon

2830 posts in 1895 days


#11 posted 02-12-2013 08:44 PM

I think your main problem is: The veneer is too thick. I wouldn’t use any veneer thicker than 1/32”. The thinner it is, the easier it is for the veneer to lay flat. Thick veneer has too much “spring” to it, unless you can provide good overall clamping pressure.

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