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Used Craftsman Professional 221240 vs. New Ridgid 4512

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Forum topic by CronenBuildingCoPDX posted 02-11-2013 08:48 AM 2231 views 0 times favorited 32 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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CronenBuildingCoPDX

21 posts in 600 days


02-11-2013 08:48 AM

Topic tags/keywords: craftsman 221240 table saw ridgid 4512 table saw table saw ridgid craftsman 4512 221240 tablesaw

I’ve been watching craigslist for a good used table saw for about a month. I’m not seeing much in my price range (no more than $500). I pretty much gave up looking for a used saw and decided to get a new Ridgid 4512 … lots of good reviews and with a 20% off competitor’s coupon I can get it for about $420.

Until today when a used Craftsman Professional 221240 popped up on craigslist. He’s asking $500 .. got him down to $450 so far. It’s supposedly had light use and is in pretty good shape. I like that it has a full cast iron top and the Biesemeyer fence. Two things the Ridgid would be lacking. The Ridgid, however, would be brand new and come with the warranty. The Craftsman saw is located a little more than an hour away from me so I want to be sure about the saw before I waste a three hour round trip.

I’m a remodeling contractor and I’m setting up a woodshop in my garage. The saw would be used for making shelving, furniture projects, cutting boards, and ripping sheet material.

Has anybody had experience with either one of these saws? I would appreciate any feedback.

-- CronenBuildingCo. Portland OR http://www.cronenbuildingco.com


32 replies so far

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5473 posts in 2034 days


#1 posted 02-11-2013 10:23 AM

Mechanically, the 22124 has the bulk advantages….cabinet mounted trunnions, Commercial Biesemeyer fence, (2) 12” solid cast iron wings (44” wide surface), full enclosure, plus 425# of mass. It lacks a riving knife, but the BORK will fit that saw. As you’ve mentioned, there’s no warranty but parts should be available via Steel City or Sears if needed. The 22124 will also need a mobile base unless one is included. $450 is a pretty good price for a 22124 in good shape.


-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View crank49's profile

crank49

3434 posts in 1629 days


#2 posted 02-11-2013 01:44 PM

I have a Craftsman 21833 which is identical to the Ridgid 4512.
You are comparing a MAC truck to a Pckup truck.
The only thing you lose in the trade off is perhaps a riving knife, depending on when the 22124 was made.
I would not think twice about that deal.
The Ridgid, and I know a lot of folks on here like them, is the cheapest, lowest quality, entry level saw on the market from my perspective. And as I said before, I own an identical saw.

-- Michael :-{| “If you tell a big enough lie and tell it frequently enough, it will be believed.” ― A H

View CronenBuildingCoPDX's profile

CronenBuildingCoPDX

21 posts in 600 days


#3 posted 02-11-2013 09:41 PM

A big thanks to Scott and crank49 for your help. I’m going to pick the saw up today … for $400. I’ll post pictures once I get it home.

Thanks again for the help guys.

-- CronenBuildingCo. Portland OR http://www.cronenbuildingco.com

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5473 posts in 2034 days


#4 posted 02-11-2013 10:03 PM

I really enjoyed my 22124. It’s easier to align, and it runs really nicely with good quality 3/32” thin kerf blades. $400 is a great price…..leaves money for blades, and maybe even a BORK!

Enjoy!

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View Tedstor's profile

Tedstor

1369 posts in 1291 days


#5 posted 02-11-2013 10:45 PM

400 bucks??!!
Nicely played. A besimeyer fence system alone is worth $400.

View aaroncgi's profile

aaroncgi

33 posts in 635 days


#6 posted 02-11-2013 10:59 PM

Congratulations on the new saw, great find! I think I would have jumped on that deal too, despite it being a little extra money to get the 22124 up to the features of the R4512, such as the riving knife and mobile base. On the other hand, it’s even more expensive to outfit the Ridgid with a Biesemeyer fence. I read a review here stating the 22124 had a list price of $1100, so I call $400 a bargain – though I would have had to rent/borrow a truck and one or two extra people to move the beast. It looks like a far more substantial saw than the R4512, enjoy it!

-- Aaron

View CronenBuildingCoPDX's profile

CronenBuildingCoPDX

21 posts in 600 days


#7 posted 02-15-2013 04:12 PM

Alright … so after a 2 1/2 hour round trip from Portland up to Rainier OR and back, I finally got the saw home. This is one heavy machine and was quite a wrestling match getting it in and out of my ‘98 Ford Econoline van (shelves on both sides).

The seller threw in a Freud 13/16” stacked dado set, a Freud 40 tooth finishing blade and an extra miter. Overall the saw looked to be in pretty good shape except it was a little dirty and had a bit of surface rust on the table. No big deal … I like to put a little work into a new (to me) tool purchase anyway. The cranks rotate smoothly and the Biesemeyer fence seems to be floating on butter.

Before handing over the money, I decided I better turn the saw on to make sure she still had life after sitting for 3 years in what was once quite a nice home woodworking shop. It now looked to be the final resting place for plastic bins full of things nobody wanted any more.

I immediately noticed that the saw does have a cyclic vibration thing going on. The seller said it “always did it but was never an issue.” I’ve read about this problem with other 22124 owners so I wasn’t too concerned about it. I figured $400 was worth the gamble especially with the extras he was throwing in. The blade had no wiggle and was rotated perfectly square to the miter slots. I removed the belt and ran the saw and noticed the vibration decreased quite a bit … but was still noticeable. Other notes: 1) I don’t think it was sitting on the floor level with all 4 corners supported evenly. 2) the Leitz blade was true but it had a thick layer of an overspray of something on one end. It didn’t look to be paint but something thicker.

Does anyone have any other recommendations for things to tackle to start eliminating possible causes to the vibration problem? I plan on starting with a good solid level footing and working my way up. My goal is to get this thing running smoothly where it will at least pass the nickel test. I’ll post updates as I have them including pictures.

Thanks in advance for all of your help … I really appreciate it.

-- CronenBuildingCo. Portland OR http://www.cronenbuildingco.com

View JayT's profile

JayT

2280 posts in 869 days


#8 posted 02-15-2013 04:22 PM

Sounds like you got a good buy.

The first thing I would do (after making sure everything is level and stable) to limit the vibration is replace the belt.

-- "The American Republic will endure until the day Congress discovers that it can bribe the public with the public's money." Alexis de Tocqueville, 1835

View CronenBuildingCoPDX's profile

CronenBuildingCoPDX

21 posts in 600 days


#9 posted 02-15-2013 07:36 PM

Is the OR91721 belt the best option?

-- CronenBuildingCo. Portland OR http://www.cronenbuildingco.com

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5473 posts in 2034 days


#10 posted 02-15-2013 10:33 PM

Some motors are prone to a little shudder at shutdown due to an electrical interaction with the capacitors known as regeneration….it’s harmless, but can be remedied with some resistors.

If it’s vibratiing during operation, the belt change is a good starting point.

The motor has a spring that supposed to help cushion vibration and bouncing….its been known to come off a few of them in transit. It’s worth checking….



-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View jeff's profile

jeff

655 posts in 2123 days


#11 posted 02-15-2013 10:53 PM

sounds like you got a nice deal…lets see some pics…

-- Jeff,Tucson,Az.

View BorkBob's profile

BorkBob

65 posts in 1351 days


#12 posted 02-16-2013 05:13 PM

That is a great deal even with the drive. If the saw sat for 3 yrs with the weight of the motor on the belt it has to be distorted. Another thing to check on the saw after moving it is the “squareness” of the cabinet. I had the 22114 (used) and the holes for the top bolts would not allow enough movement to accurately align the top to the blade. The cabinet was out of square.

-- Please Pray for Our Troops / Semper Fi / Bob Ross / www.theborkstore.com

View CronenBuildingCoPDX's profile

CronenBuildingCoPDX

21 posts in 600 days


#13 posted 02-18-2013 05:57 PM

Thanks again to everyone offering advice and help with this saw. I’ll be giving it attention in the coming week and will keep the posts updated as I make changes. I did give the cast iron top a good cleaning the other night and it turned out great. (PB Blaster and scotch bright pads followed by 220-320 sand paper … cleaned with mineral spirits … a good coat of Minwax paste wax)

I also ordered the OR971721 belt which should be here Monday February 25th.

-- CronenBuildingCo. Portland OR http://www.cronenbuildingco.com

View waho6o9's profile

waho6o9

4945 posts in 1235 days


#14 posted 02-18-2013 06:05 PM

Sometimes these belts work other times not depending on your pulleys.

You have one on order and if the vibrations are still present, you might want
to give the V links a go, if they’re compatible.

View BuzzBate's profile

BuzzBate

101 posts in 690 days


#15 posted 02-18-2013 07:33 PM

I’m late to the game but good call on picking that saw. My Ridgid 4512 is one of my only tool purchases that I regret. Purchased it last year, and am heading to Springfield, MO in the next few weeks to get a new Grizzly Hybrid to replace it with. Your purchase is well worth it even if it does take a little work to get it perfect.

-- "Drill as many holes as you want. We have plenty of putty."

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