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Forum topic by AustinK posted 02-11-2013 08:45 AM 1134 views 1 time favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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AustinK

9 posts in 684 days


02-11-2013 08:45 AM

Hi, I am about to undertake building a custom entertainment center (mock-up below) for my DLP TV.

This is my first time tackling anything of this scale project-wise, and was looking for some advice.

This won’t be a built-in, so I have to make sure that it is easy enough to disassemble in case I have to move it. I am having troubles figuring out how to attach the bridge between the two shelving units. The ID between the units is 67”.

Any advice is much appreciated.

Austin


6 replies so far

View REO's profile

REO

667 posts in 825 days


#1 posted 02-11-2013 12:58 PM

if the top piece you are showing is short hand for a crown molding put a couple cleats on the bridge section to hold it in place and a couple screws in from the ends inside the towers no one will ever notice them.

View Clint Searl's profile

Clint Searl

1479 posts in 1112 days


#2 posted 02-11-2013 01:34 PM

Screws

-- Clint Searl....Ya can no more do what ya don't know how than ya can git back from where ya ain't been

View LukieB's profile

LukieB

942 posts in 1081 days


#3 posted 02-11-2013 02:48 PM

Check this out
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/59154

6 separate pieces, assemble/disassembled with t-nuts and 1/4” machine screws /bolts

-- Lucas, "Someday woodworks will be my real job, until then, there's this http://www.melbrownfarmsupply.com"

View huff's profile

huff

2810 posts in 2036 days


#4 posted 02-11-2013 02:58 PM

Austin,

Depending on the type detail you will be doing on the top of the bridge and towers could give you a couple options.

If you plan on leaving it as the drawing shows (with no molding, etc.), then you could mount a short cleat to each end of the bridge at the height you want it to sit on the towers. 3/4×3/4 x approx. 3” long, mounted centered from front to rear. It would probably be recessed from the front enough that you would not see it.

Mounted permanently to the bridge, it would give you a ledge for the bridge to sit on top of the towers so you wouldn’t have to try to hold it in place while installing screws or removing screws when it’s time to take apart.

Two screws through the side of each tower tucked up behind the top rail, screwed into the bridge would pull it tight and hold it solid.

If you are going to do some sort of molding around the top of the bridge, then that can serve as your lip/ledge for the bridge to sit on the towers and again screw from the tower into the bridge on each side.

The only problem I see with using molding is, if you plan to do the same molding for the towers, then you have an awkward transition between the towers and bridge if the fronts of all the units are flush. Easy to do the return on the outside of each tower, but nothing to tie into when it ends at the bridge. (unless the bride is proud of the tower enough for the molding to die into.)

-- John @ http://www.thehuffordfurnituregroup.com

View LukieB's profile

LukieB

942 posts in 1081 days


#5 posted 02-11-2013 02:58 PM

Like so,

-- Lucas, "Someday woodworks will be my real job, until then, there's this http://www.melbrownfarmsupply.com"

View AustinK's profile

AustinK

9 posts in 684 days


#6 posted 02-11-2013 03:18 PM

Thanks for all the good advice fellas.

There will be crown molding around the tops of the bridge and towers, so I have decided to use cleats to hold it in place, and machine screws with Tee Nuts to secure it.

Austin

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