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Splitter for my JET table saw

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Forum topic by JoeWhite posted 530 days ago 2095 views 1 time favorited 23 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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JoeWhite

20 posts in 532 days


530 days ago

I have a JET 10” left tilt cabinet saw. The blade guard/splitter that comes with the saw is a major pain. I want to find an after market splitter/anti kickback guard for the saw, but have had difficulty finding one. Any suggestions? Does the Excalibur over arm guard provide any kind of kick back protection, or is that merely for dust collection and blade protection?


23 replies so far

View toolie's profile

toolie

1721 posts in 1227 days


#1 posted 529 days ago

try this:

http://www.theborkstore.com/

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

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JoeWhite

20 posts in 532 days


#2 posted 529 days ago

Thanks. Didn’t really see any kickback protection with that one though. I know having a splitter in and of itself is kickback protection, just didn’t know if there was something similar to the blade guard that comes with the jet that has the spring loaded claws that grab the wood if it starts to reverse direction.

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toolie

1721 posts in 1227 days


#3 posted 529 days ago

check with jet tools. the OEM part is probably overpriced, but it may, at least, be avaialble.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View Bill7255's profile

Bill7255

134 posts in 884 days


#4 posted 502 days ago

I have the Excalibur and it is strictly a guard and dust extraction. I use the MJ splitter, but this does not have any kickback pawls. I do have the board buddies and they work fine for the larger cuts, but also have some limitations.

-- Bill R

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JefferySun

18 posts in 524 days


#5 posted 501 days ago

View JoeWhite's profile

JoeWhite

20 posts in 532 days


#6 posted 501 days ago

Jeffery, no, that one won’t fit my saw, but I was hoping to find something similar that would. Looks like I may have to go with the mj splitter and a zero clearance insert. I’ve been hesitant because the mj just looks cheesy, and unreliable. I guess I’ll have to take my chances.

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toolie

1721 posts in 1227 days


#7 posted 500 days ago

joewhite…......thenbork will, IMHO, provide you with more protection than the mj. it is larger and will keep the work piece from contacting more of the spinning blade during all through cuts. and a ZCI goes without saying. anyone not using one is just asking for a problem.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View JoeWhite's profile

JoeWhite

20 posts in 532 days


#8 posted 500 days ago

Thanks Toolie. I’ll definitely give them another look. As for a ZCI, I have one, just haven’t installed it yet because I can’t figure out how to. I bought an after market one, but my blade doesn’t go low enough for me to seat it so I can bring the blade up through it. It also has some metal rod sticking out of the end of it for some reason. I’ve got to spend some more time with it to figure out what I’m doing wrong. And then figure out how I’m going to mount my blade guard with it on until I get a riving knife. I’m still very much a newbie in the wood shop.

View b2rtch's profile

b2rtch

4287 posts in 1647 days


#9 posted 500 days ago

I had the BORK it did not work for me.I strongly recommend the

http://www.microjig.com/products/mj-splitter-steel-pro/design-concept.shtml

They are very inexpensive and very effective.
I use them for over a year

-- Bert

View pintodeluxe's profile

pintodeluxe

3270 posts in 1412 days


#10 posted 500 days ago

I just cut a saw kerf in my mdf zci’s and glue in a hardwood strip. The strip projects above the table 7/16”.
Otherwise, I like magnetic featherboards better than anti-kickback pawls. They are so easy, you won’t mind using them.

That said, I think more kickbacks happen due to maladjusted fences and poor blades. A fence parallel to your blade ia key. Many newer blades, such as Freud, have anti-kickback features built in. The teeth are longer behind the carbide inserts, which helps. Also if you joint an edge before you rip stock to width, there is less chance of kickback.
Good luck finding a product that works for you.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

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runswithscissors

894 posts in 624 days


#11 posted 500 days ago

To start a cut in your virgin ZCI, use a smaller blade (7 1/4”, 8” or whatever). Best if it has same thickness as the blade you’ll be running with. After making the initial cut, reinstall your regular blade, and finish the cut.

View JoeWhite's profile

JoeWhite

20 posts in 532 days


#12 posted 500 days ago

The mj is certainly a cheaper option. I’ll give it a go before I splurge for the bork. Does anyone know what the metal pin sticking out of one end of the ZCI might be for? Can I just pull that out?

View toolie's profile

toolie

1721 posts in 1227 days


#13 posted 500 days ago

posting a pic would be the most helpful thing to do regarding that pin. could it be intended to keep the ZCI from tipping up during some part of the cutting operation? my emerson built TSs have inserts that have a metal tab on the end furthest away form the operator to keep them from tipping up and out of the throat. i add a small screw to the end of my ZCIs the accomplish the same result. perhaps that pin is for that purpose.

also, doesn’t your TS have the OEM splitter? that would probably be better than the mj, which is small and not really all that impressive, IMHO.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View runswithscissors's profile

runswithscissors

894 posts in 624 days


#14 posted 500 days ago

If it’s what I think it is, the pin in the end of the ZCI is to keep the uprising teeth at the far end of the blade from lifting the insert out. Were it to do so, it could throw it with considerable force, kind of like a kickback. Personally, I’d be inclined to leave it in. Keep in mind that the point of a ZCI is to have the insert as close to the blade as possible.

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JoeWhite

20 posts in 532 days


#15 posted 500 days ago

 photo ZCIforJTAS10XL_zpsb51c8ed1.jpg

Here is the photo of the ZCI. According to the packaging, the pin is a stabilizer pin. Unfortunately, it is directly in the middle of the rear of the insert and causes the front edge to kick up. Is it safe to remove this pin, or bend it out of the way. Not sure if bending it out of the way will even work.

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