Older Craftsman 113.27521

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Forum topic by Roadrunner7 posted 02-08-2013 02:03 PM 5409 views 0 times favorited 13 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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6 posts in 2109 days

02-08-2013 02:03 PM

How much is a Craftsman 113.27521 worth? Is it a good intermediate saw while I save some more money for a cabinet saw? Any thoughts or advise is much appreciated!!!!

13 replies so far

View camps764's profile


867 posts in 2533 days

#1 posted 02-08-2013 02:06 PM

FWIW – I see this exact saw on CL here in Omaha quite frequently – usually in the $50-$75 range. They seem to hang around for a few weeks at those price points and then disappear.

Yours has a cool base and seems slightly cleaner than what I see here.

It would do the job probably -but you might get frustrated with the fence/accuracy of the saw in the mean time.

If it were me, and I didn’t have other options, I’d probably pick it up for around $50 – with plans to dump it for around the same price as more things came on the market and I saved some cash.

Edit: Those webbed cast iron wings will drive you nuts. My craftsman has one still attached (until I get my router table done) and the fence doesn’t clamp down on it very well and the webs get in the way.

If you do plan to buy it, I would do my due dilligence and check how square the blade is to the miter slot and do a quick google search on how to check arbor run out.

-- Steve

View gawthrrw's profile


207 posts in 2620 days

#2 posted 02-08-2013 03:08 PM

I had one like this for many years and I agree with the above about checking the miter slots and arbor Runout. I paid 75 bucks for mine.

With that being said though these saws are very common in shops across the US and are pretty good saws once tuned up. I had mine for over 5 years and the only reason I upgraded to a cabinet saw is because I was finally able to get my hands on 8/4 lumber. If most of the stuff you cut is in the 3/4 to 1” range this saw will work fine.

A few of the upgrades I put on mine was machined pulleyes, a delta T2 fence, and the link belt. Just those three things made this into a completely new saw. The key is to get the saw as cheap as you can so that with the upgrades your not paying more than a new saw would cost. Here were the costs of my upgrades but this was about three years ago:

Delta T2 Fence: $159.00 on Amazon

Link belt: $24.00 at harbor freight (they make good link belts IMHO)

Machined pulleys: $40.00 for both(cant remember where i got them but you can google it)

Hope this helps.

P.S. I never had any trouble with the webbed extension table myself. I actually like them more tha the solid ones because the dust will fall through them and it makes using that surface for clamping nice. Just my opinion.

-- Rob, Dallas TX

View gawthrrw's profile


207 posts in 2620 days

#3 posted 02-08-2013 03:19 PM

Oh yea, Also mineral oil and a green or red scotchbrite pad works wonders on rust. Whatever you do dont use sandpaper on that top.

-- Rob, Dallas TX

View camps764's profile


867 posts in 2533 days

#4 posted 02-08-2013 03:59 PM

great advice Gawthrrw :) With those upgrades I would absolutely call it a user.

-- Steve

View EEngineer's profile


1115 posts in 3786 days

#5 posted 02-08-2013 04:46 PM

The subject of 113 table saws has been coming up a lot here lately.

I love mine! And, barring complications with the motor or bearings, it may be the last table saw I own.

You actually might be happy with that fence. This looks like the older micro-adjustable fence and was actually built better than the newer units. Try it – if not happy, there are lots of after-market solutions.

Link belt – feh! A good quality V-belt will get you past the nickel test. The older versions of this saw (this one looks like late 50’s, early 60’s to me) actually had machined pulleys. Mine has the cast pulleys and and the original V-belt and passes the nickel test. I suspect most vibration problems people have with this saw don’t have anything to do with the belt or pulleys.

I actually like the webbed extensions, too. I have never had any issues using them and they look cool. They are far and away more stable than the later stamped extensions that Sears went to. If they really bother you, you can fill the open webbing with pieces of 1/4” ply glued to the extensions. Many people with these exetensions have done this. I never saw the need.

-- "Find out what you cannot do and then go do it!"

View gawthrrw's profile


207 posts in 2620 days

#6 posted 02-08-2013 05:44 PM

I agree partly with you Eengineer. A normal v belt will work for most, but if you are only a weekend warrior and don’t run your saw daily than it will get humps in it from just sitting. That’s why I went with the link belt.

For the OP, you will know if your belt is warped usually when you first start the saw. It will jump when you first turn it on but depending on the severity of it it might calm down right after. Just my experience.

-- Rob, Dallas TX

View Roadrunner7's profile


6 posts in 2109 days

#7 posted 02-08-2013 05:49 PM

Wow! Thanks for all your great help! I learn so much every time I ask a question! I am going to check it out this weekend.

View Grandpa's profile


3261 posts in 2848 days

#8 posted 02-08-2013 05:58 PM

I believe this is a mid 50’s saw. these are good saw from what I can read. I have one that was actually thrown in on a deal. He just said take that old saw, I don’t want it. It came with a dado set and 3 blades. All this was on an oak furniture mover with good larges castors on it. What is it worth. What ever you have to pay. That varies as you move from place to place. You can clean the table and check the bearings. IMO if you add a fence etc you need to plan on keeping the saw. You can spend $150 for a better fence and sell the saw for $150 in 5 years. If you can use this fence and put your $150 toward a different saw you wil get your $50 back from this saw and get the new one sooner.

View superstretch's profile


1531 posts in 2866 days

#9 posted 02-19-2013 04:01 AM

I have one.. see: (the # in the title is wrong). I’ve posted about it around here a few times and someone just asked about the same model a few weeks ago

-- Dan, Rochester, NY

View toolie's profile


2146 posts in 2801 days

#10 posted 02-19-2013 04:18 AM

$50-$75. the OEM fence is nothing to rave about. placed on a cabinet designed for a TS with a new t2 fence and that’s a good little saw. i have two similar saws of a more recent vintage that i really like. so much so that i kept them and sold the unisaw i refurbished. tune it up with a good fence and aftermarket miter gauge (like an incra v27) and, blasphemous though it may be, you may postpone that cabinet for for a long, long time.

-- there's a solution to every just have to be willing to find it.

View BobThompson's profile


20 posts in 2137 days

#11 posted 02-19-2013 04:53 AM

I picked one up for $50.00 back when my hair was still brown. The top was a lot rustier than the one you have pictured. I cleaned it up and built a stand with retractable wheels, added a router table wing and made funiture for our house over the past 30 years. In the last five years I’ve picked up a used PM66 and a new Shopfox 5hp cabinet saw, so this past Christmas I put a new Frued combination blade on the Craftsman and passed it on to my son-in-law, now he’s making furniture for his house. The Craftsman served me well.

-- Bob in Washington State

View Smitty_Cabinetshop's profile


15647 posts in 2791 days

#12 posted 02-19-2013 05:02 AM

Love mine, it’s the last saw I think I’ll ever need. The fence and micro-adjust is great. Wish I had the rails for the fence with each of the extension wings (I added those cast iron extensions via ebay).

-- Don't anthropomorphize your handplanes. They hate it when you do that. -- OldTools Archive --

View ksSlim's profile


1286 posts in 3063 days

#13 posted 02-19-2013 05:41 AM

Shoot it with T-9 and wipe the rust off then treat with Boshield.
10 years ago I bought the same saw along with a 6” joiner and a CM lathe for $175 US.

-- Sawdust and shavings are therapeutic

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