flat bottom cutting saw blades

If you get a WW2 ground for flat bottomed cuts, you’re going to lose most of the benefit of its being a WW2.

I use a high quality rip blade for flat bottomed cuts typically. Not sure if its orthodox, but if I need to have a flat bottomed crosscut, I’ll hit it first with my ATB crosscut blade just under depth, then make one more pass with the rip blade to clean out the bottom of the cut.

-D

-- Dylan Vanderhoof - New woodworker in training. =)

Can I ask why you would need such a cut? (Brain freeze today;-))
Neither of the examples you suggested would show after assembly.

I’m assuming 1/8” kerf?

Bob

-- A mind, like a home, is furnished by its owner

Ok,
I think I’m showing my lack of experience. sometimes I see on new yankee workshop norm will cut part of a tenon (shoulder part i guess?). rather than set up a tenoning jig to hold the stock upright, he will occasionally just move the piece a fraction of an inch to the side and cut again. Then repeat until the material is removed. I’ve done this with my curent blade, but it leaves lots of little ridges that need a lot of cleanup with a chisel.

As far as how to use these blades to make keyed mitre joints, maybe a picture will be worth 1000 words.
Here href="http://lumberjocks.com/projects/3094"> was a really nice example. I hope this helps.

Dylan,
From the sounds of your explanation is sounds like having the alternating teeth is part of the key to a good cut. I was hoping that it only marginally contibuted.

I was thinking you wanted to do these:

Sorry for the conlfusion.
I do my keys with the router.

-- A mind, like a home, is furnished by its owner