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Forum topic by Jackietreehorn posted 02-06-2013 04:52 AM 1327 views 0 times favorited 23 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Jackietreehorn

120 posts in 689 days


02-06-2013 04:52 AM

Topic tags/keywords: bamboo

I’ve never taken on something of this magnitude, let alone with this type of cost. It will be built out of bamboo ply, so I’m trying to nail it all down in the design arena before I make any cuts as each screw up could end up being spendy.
Onto some drawings.
First one straight on with doors in place

Doors removed

Angle view, the center section obviously deeper than the left and right sides to make it flush with the doors

Top removed, the dark section will probably be made of a birch ply and stained black, basically just a riser and to break the cabinet apart a bit

The back

Back panel removed, it will be a 1/2” ply because the cabinet/buffet will be separating the living and dining, with the living being a sunken room. He may end up hanging guitars or artwork on the back of it so 1/4 isn’t going to cut it.

another top view

Exploded views



Hopefully I’m not missing anythig too obvious, that’s what my proofread request is for…

-- www.nobleprojects.blogspot.com


23 replies so far

View RonInOhio's profile

RonInOhio

720 posts in 1615 days


#1 posted 02-06-2013 05:17 AM

Looks great ! Do you have a dimension layer ?

View Jackietreehorn's profile

Jackietreehorn

120 posts in 689 days


#2 posted 02-06-2013 05:39 AM

Yeah, but I left them out of pictures since it makes it rather messy. All my dimensions add up and I’ve checked several times. Basically I’m just making sure the design is correct/do-able.

-- www.nobleprojects.blogspot.com

View woodcox's profile

woodcox

707 posts in 763 days


#3 posted 02-06-2013 05:51 AM

I just watched Tommy Mac build a vanity out of this stuff in his last episode of Rough Cut. It gave good insight in working with the boo. He also went out to the manufacturer in San Francisco. Not quite your scale but worth your time. Good luck.

-- "My god has more wood than your god" ... G. Carlin.

View MNgary's profile

MNgary

236 posts in 1168 days


#4 posted 02-06-2013 06:23 AM

Great design with wonderful proportions. I especially love the recessed platform base and floating top.

Bamboo is a perfect choice for this design as well.

I do ponder what it would look like if the top appeared maybe 65% thicker, but still be floated. And a question I have is whether the base is tall enough to prevent someone’s shoes from nicking the doors.

Keep up the great design work, I’m anxious to hear your construction progress , too.

-- I dream of the world where a duck can cross the road and no one asks why.

View Jackietreehorn's profile

Jackietreehorn

120 posts in 689 days


#5 posted 02-06-2013 06:42 AM

Thanks for the input, I think the toe height is 1.75”, its for my father in law, and he wanted a small toe kick so it wouldn’t look to much like a kitchen cabinet sitting in middle of room.

-- www.nobleprojects.blogspot.com

View MrRon's profile

MrRon

2985 posts in 1994 days


#6 posted 02-06-2013 08:48 PM

I’m thinking you should make the first horizontal divider below the top in the center module a continuous piece from side-to-side and make the four vertical dividers separate pieces. The thinking is; it is easier to line up 2 pieces vertically than 5 pieces horizontally. All horizontal pieces will keep the case square. Just having one of those short horizontal pieces a little bit off and the case won’t be square.

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Jackietreehorn

120 posts in 689 days


#7 posted 02-06-2013 09:30 PM

You mean the dark grey piece or the skinny bamboo pieces? I for sure can’t make the bamboo one piece as the center cabinet is deeper. Also, this has to travel a few hundred miles and then down a few flights of stairs, so I’m hoping I can deliver it in three separate sections

-- www.nobleprojects.blogspot.com

View Craftsman70's profile

Craftsman70

243 posts in 876 days


#8 posted 02-07-2013 02:38 PM

I have a newbie question for you about the joinery (because I’m about to make my first carcase that has a similar size/ratio to yours). Why did you choose to do the joinery at the sides the way you did? I ask because that never would have occurred to me. I was going to just rabbet the side piece, but may do what you are doing if you think that is a better joinery method.
So here is what I’m talking about:

What are the pros and cons of those two methods?

View Thalweg's profile

Thalweg

71 posts in 2157 days


#9 posted 02-07-2013 03:40 PM

This is a cool looking project. I’ve been thinking about trying something with bamboo so I’d be interested in watching the project progress.

On your design though, I think I’d have the same concern MrRon had, if I understand him correctly. That section you show in post #7 would be challenging to build and potentially weak. You say you can’d make it out of a single piece of the bamboo ply because of varying depth. But could you make it out of three pieces? Each piece would run front to back. One piece for each section.

How do you intend to cover the cut edges of the ply? Especially where the cabinet top (the piece shown in post #7) sits in the rabbits on the cabinet side as shown in the fourth picture from the top.

View Tokolosi's profile

Tokolosi

673 posts in 1106 days


#10 posted 02-07-2013 04:16 PM

This is going to really nice.

I have a question; why did you double up the panels in the center?

You may be able to eliminate those.

-- “There is nothing like looking, if you want to find something. You certainly usually find something, if you look, but it is not always quite the something you were after.” ~ JRR Tolkien

View MrRon's profile

MrRon

2985 posts in 1994 days


#11 posted 02-07-2013 06:17 PM

What I’m saying is; make the horizontal divider a continuous piece and put the dado’s in that for the 8 vertical pieces. In the “back panel removed” view, why is the vertical piece extending out from the rabbet in the bottom piece? Why use Poplar plywood? Use solid Poplar stock, unless you already have it on hand.

View Jackietreehorn's profile

Jackietreehorn

120 posts in 689 days


#12 posted 02-07-2013 06:24 PM

Ok, I’ll go back a little bit to explain a couple little things. I’ve done around a bazillion changes to this thing (started drawing this in september) and from the start I was trying to eliminate having to use a third sheet of wood. So that’s how I came up with those skinny top pieces. The shelves were originally going to be the same material as the kick and spacer to save money, but my father in law said if he had to buy an extra sheet that he wouldn’t care about the cost. So instead of going back and re-figuring my cut list, I changed the shelves and had planned on revising my cut list later. After mrron pointed out the small pieces, I started my revision of the cut list and was trying to think of a way that i could do as he suggested. (To be honest I’ve sat there and stared at those small miters wondering how I’m going to cut them perfectly) I think I can squeeze out solid top pieces… I started drawing it last night but ran out of time so ill be checking today and post up what I find.

Side question, is there any way to quote someone’s post? Newbie to this forum style and most I’ve dealt with have a quote feature, hope I’m not missing it.

@craftsman70, I have no idea if there is any reason to it, and in fact I don’t know what the pros and cons are to the way I drew them other than my own thoughts on how I was thinking I would do it. Technically your way would be easier. If someone has some pointers/reasoning there I’d love to here it.

@thalweg, the beauty of using bamboo ply is that it’s cut edge is cool looking, so I shouldn’t need to use any kind of edging, key word being shouldn’t.

@tokolosi, the center is actually deeper, and if I were to eliminate those I’d have to recess the wine rack, plus I’m not sure how that would work with the full overlay setup on the hinges/doors. But the main reason is that I wanted to build each section separately so I could haul each to the location, and then finish the piece by attaching the top and toe kick. The location is down a few flights of tight stairs and the weight of this thing all together would make it a pain to haul down so I figured I’d make it in three sections, although as I’m writing this I’m not certain how I would put the back on without cutting it into three sections as well…

-- www.nobleprojects.blogspot.com

View Jackietreehorn's profile

Jackietreehorn

120 posts in 689 days


#13 posted 02-07-2013 06:31 PM

“What I’m saying is; make the horizontal divider a continuous piece and put the dado’s in that for the 8 vertical pieces. In the “back panel removed” view, why is the vertical piece extending out from the rabbet in the bottom piece? Why use Poplar plywood? Use solid Poplar stock, unless you already have it on hand.”

Hopefully i answered that bit about the horizontal pieces a minute ago. I have some birch ply here at my shop I set aside for the kick and spacer, but the poplar is a good suggestion and I don’t think adding that bit of cost will change much, so thanks for that suggestion as that’s a better route.
I made those center vertical pieces an 1/8” deeper so I could have a bit more “grab” in my solid rear panel if he decides to hang things on it, is that not really needed? I figured it was just a little extra in the strength department.

-- www.nobleprojects.blogspot.com

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Jackietreehorn

120 posts in 689 days


#14 posted 02-07-2013 09:46 PM

Ok, it looks like I can make the top sections solid by the skin of my teeth, this mean I can’t mess up a single cut :eek:

-- www.nobleprojects.blogspot.com

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Jackietreehorn

120 posts in 689 days


#15 posted 02-11-2013 09:39 PM

I’ve changed the back now a bit, seems like this would be an easier approach too

-- www.nobleprojects.blogspot.com

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