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To all you LJs with shop-built drum sanders - a couple of questions

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Forum topic by PurpLev posted 534 days ago 1398 views 0 times favorited 13 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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PurpLev

8476 posts in 2245 days


534 days ago

Hi gals/guys,

I’ve been toying with the idea of building a shop made drums sander and one of the things that would change the design considerably is adding an automatic feed conveyor belt system. I see some people added something like that, while the majority didn’t and simply push the parts by hand.

My first question for you: if you are feeding by hand – do you now wish that you’ve had a feed belt? or is feeding by hand working perfect as is? for those with a belt – do you find it more troublesome? would have you omitted it from your sander?

Question #2: what is the drum shaft diameter that you’ve used? do you find it adequate? would you change it (to what)?

Thanks in advance!

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.


13 replies so far

View Don W's profile (online now)

Don W

14599 posts in 1164 days


#1 posted 534 days ago

I just finished mine a few weeks ago, so I’m probably not the best to comment, but here’s what I see so far.

I’ve run some pieces through and its important to keep a consistent feed rate. I’m sure I’ll get better at it with a little time, but its something I have to pay attention to. A feed system would help eliminate that.

So would it have been worth the extra complexity? I’m still leaning towards no.

I also need to make a nice thin push stick for it. That will help as well.

I made a 5” drum. It seems to be perfect for me.

Edit. I misread the post. I used a 5/8” shaft. Seems good so far.

-- Master hand plane hoarder. - http://timetestedtools.com

View Kirk's profile

Kirk

110 posts in 2650 days


#2 posted 534 days ago

I have a feed table that is motor driven or rather driven by the drum. 3 different belts. The table belt is 80 grit sand paper belt.
Building the feed belt table was a challenge. Height adjustment sucks. Otherwise it works.
My drum shaft is 1”. I want something that would flex. Also it’s a little like a flywheel.
My worst problem, finding pulleys with ID’s that fit the different shafts.
Over all, I would use any shafts less the 1/2”. Bigger the better.
By the way, you can find it on Youtube. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NBxO8-jS7tc

-- W. Kirk Crawford - Tularosa, New Mexico

View shipwright's profile

shipwright

4833 posts in 1394 days


#3 posted 534 days ago

I hand feed my shop made sander (Az shop) and have a commercial dual drum sander in my home shop (BC). Hand feeding works just as well as the power feed but requires care in that you have to keep the feed speed uniform in order to prevent little gouges (grooves). If the things you are planning to sand are easily handled and controlled, then while it’s nice to have, I don’t think that power feed is necessary.

There’s a video of my hand fed sander in use in this blog.
(my apologies, the second of the three video sequences is repeated, but do watch the third)

My sander has no drum shaft as it is lathe mounted and doesn’t require one.

-- Paul M ..............If God wanted us to have fiberglass boats he would have given us fiberglass trees. http://prmdesigns.com/

View CharlieM1958's profile

CharlieM1958

15648 posts in 2814 days


#4 posted 534 days ago

I don’t have on, Sharon, but this is just a common-sense thought:

Any variation in feed rate is going to affect the flatness of the piece to some degree. It might not be noticeable to the naked eye unless you practically stop the feed and get a groove as Paul describes, but it will still be there.

A good, steady hand feed would most likely ensure that it wouldn’t be an issue. But it’s still something to consider if you are a stickler for getting a dead flat surface.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

View Douglas Bordner's profile

Douglas Bordner

3960 posts in 2660 days


#5 posted 533 days ago

I would avoid a DC motor. My Jet 10-20 had it’s motor and controller fry out. At upwards of $400 to repair, I will be rigging something to hand feed. I’m thinking about putting drawer slides and a tray under the drum.

-- "Bordnerizing" perfectly good lumber for over a decade.

View PurpLev's profile

PurpLev

8476 posts in 2245 days


#6 posted 533 days ago

Thanks for the responses thus far.

While I have no problem rigging this with a DC motor, I just happen to have an AC motor laying around that I would like to repurpose for this. I’m thinking of using a single motor to drive both drum and feed with a pulley system if that would be the path to take… still letting the idea simmer…

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View sIKE's profile

sIKE

1271 posts in 2350 days


#7 posted 533 days ago

Has anyone ever used a Rotisserie Motor for the feed table? That has been one of the thought banging around in my head. Havent dont a lot a research into one at this point but if I were to use one of these for a drum sander I would perfer that it have a built in on/off switch.

-- //FC - Round Rock, TX - "Experience is what you get just after you need it"

View b2rtch's profile

b2rtch

4286 posts in 1644 days


#8 posted 533 days ago

I would think that it would be too weak and too slow.
I would look at using my old belt sander with variable speed or to get a variable speed conveyor belt from work.

-- Bert

View CessnaPilotBarry's profile

CessnaPilotBarry

877 posts in 706 days


#9 posted 533 days ago

I always wondered if an internally geared bicycle hub and chain drive could be used on a shop -made sander to vary the speed.

A human can generate a decent amount of torque, so the hub should be up to the task, and the drive itself would be dead-simple to build.

-- It's all good, if it's wood...

View PurpLev's profile

PurpLev

8476 posts in 2245 days


#10 posted 533 days ago

Barry – that’s a cool idea, but in my mind since we’re talking sander and fine dust, I’m not sure the gears would like that – considering that the chain on bicycle should be well lubed which will only attract the dust and make it into a slurry.

I think simplicity is king. just have to figure out if it’s worth it as opposed to hand pushing parts.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View b2rtch's profile

b2rtch

4286 posts in 1644 days


#11 posted 533 days ago

I believe that the best bet is to get a used conveyor belt.
They come in all size and all power.

-- Bert

View CessnaPilotBarry's profile

CessnaPilotBarry

877 posts in 706 days


#12 posted 533 days ago

Internally geared hubs are sealed. Modern versions are installed on commuter bikes that even see action in the rain.

The chain is a good point. One answer would be a dry lube, very popular in mountain biking as trails are really dirty. Another is a toothed belt, which is already available. Nowadays, there are belt driven bicycles.

http://www.carbondrivesystems.com/

Just tossing it out there for those designing from scratch.

-- It's all good, if it's wood...

View b2rtch's profile

b2rtch

4286 posts in 1644 days


#13 posted 533 days ago

A good 1/2” drive cordless drill would probably have enough torque.

-- Bert

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