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Split drawbore pin. Help!!

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Forum topic by jshattoc posted 564 days ago 405 views 0 times favorited 4 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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jshattoc

12 posts in 924 days


564 days ago

So today my FIL and I put my benchtop onto the base, and I pounded in the drawbore pins. And wouldn’t ya know it, #32 out of 32 split apart. Looking at it, I realize its my own fault: the grain was as curly as it comes. I’d like to get it out of there and repin that bit, but I’m at a bit of a loss on how to do it.

The top and base are doug fir, the pin is Borg red oak dowel stock. I think it made it to the bottom of the taper, and the split when it needed to go back to the “straight” part in the top. The depth is a bit of a guess, though, based on what the other pin in that tenon did. Straight stock made it through the 5/64 offset no problem. Whats the easiest way to get it out of there?


4 replies so far

View nwbusa's profile

nwbusa

1016 posts in 911 days


#1 posted 564 days ago

I’m assuming from your post that these are blind and not through pins. Is it glued in?

-- John, BC, Canada

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jshattoc

12 posts in 924 days


#2 posted 564 days ago

yes, its a blind pin. Total depth would be 5”; this one went 2.5 at best. No glue at all, I’ll be moving at some point, and I want to be able to drill the pins out to help the movers. Is that my best bet here?

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nwbusa

1016 posts in 911 days


#3 posted 564 days ago

That would be my advice.

-- John, BC, Canada

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paratrooper34

760 posts in 1577 days


#4 posted 564 days ago

If you were planning on drilling it out later anyway, drill it out now. Of course that makes the draw boring advantage a moot point after that.

Not sure how you got your pins. If you have the ability to make your own, I suggest doing that. You get a much better product with straight grain all the way through. If you do not have a dowel plate, you can make one easily enough with some thick steel. You won’t have issues with pins splitting when you make your own.

-- Mike

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