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Where do you install your blade on your band saw?

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Forum topic by b2rtch posted 01-31-2013 10:53 PM 1573 views 4 times favorited 26 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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b2rtch

4351 posts in 1792 days


01-31-2013 10:53 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question

I always install my blade in the center of the tire on my band saw but last night I was watching a video and the presentator insisted that the blade should be installed at the very front of the tire.
What do you prefer?
Why?
Bertrand

-- Bert


26 replies so far

View joeyinsouthaustin's profile

joeyinsouthaustin

1286 posts in 816 days


#1 posted 01-31-2013 10:56 PM

The middle, because that is what the owners manual recommended.

-- Who is John Galt?

View RussellAP's profile

RussellAP

2966 posts in 1030 days


#2 posted 01-31-2013 10:56 PM

I’ve been using a 1/4 inch these days, but even the thicker blades will push back when stressed so starting at the front of the wheel allows room to move on the wheel I would think. I know my blade will move a bit.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

3579 posts in 2704 days


#3 posted 01-31-2013 11:07 PM

Gullets at the center of the wheel.
Leaves the teeth somewhat free of the crown on the tires.
Just what I do.
Bill

-- bill@magraphics.us

View GlennsGrandson's profile

GlennsGrandson

433 posts in 1053 days


#4 posted 01-31-2013 11:19 PM

+1 for Bill.

Bottom of the gullets at the center of the wheel. That way the teeth can’t tilt/flex side to side as easy. (if that makes any sense)

-- Grant - S/N Dakota

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thedude50

3529 posts in 1221 days


#5 posted 01-31-2013 11:42 PM

In the middle it is the way I was taught I have found that if it drifts the the front the teeth hit the wheel

-- when I am not on Lumberjocks I am on @ http://thisoldworkshop.com where we allow free speech

View Blackie_'s profile

Blackie_

3637 posts in 1256 days


#6 posted 02-01-2013 12:19 AM

Bert you want the gullet of the blade to be centered on the tire not the blade, the teeth are what needs to be supported. I believe in this guy, see video great info in here.

Bandsaw Blade

-- Randy - If I'm not on LJ's then I'm making Saw Dust. Please feel free to visit my store location at http://www.facebook.com/randy.blackstock.custom.wood.designs

View teejk's profile

teejk

1215 posts in 1428 days


#7 posted 02-01-2013 12:29 AM

anywhere where I can be sure the teeth will never contact metal. so it probably makes sense to load it towards the front if you are sure it tracks properly.

as far as tracking goes, if you want to get a purple fingernail without polish, spin the upper wheel on a Delta and catch that bolt behind it.

as far as metal on metal, does anybody have an idea of what to do with blades where that happens? don’t say to keep cutting wood because it won’t.

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exelectrician

1741 posts in 1171 days


#8 posted 02-01-2013 01:02 AM

Blackie – Thank you for the thread http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU
That cleared up so much for me. I am so grateful for this valuable information.

-- Love thy neighbour as thyself

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TCCcabinetmaker

925 posts in 1098 days


#9 posted 02-01-2013 01:14 AM

depends on the type of blade I suppose, if the teeth are staggered to each side then the the teeth need not hit the wheels, however, if it’s like the majority of bandsaw blades then it’s fine if the teeth roll across the whiles, it won’t hurt them as it’s flat against the wheels. As for old dull blades, they make good card scrapers when cut up, flattened and burnished.

-- The mark of a good carpenter is not how few mistakes he makes, but rather how well he fixes them.

View thedude50's profile

thedude50

3529 posts in 1221 days


#10 posted 02-01-2013 01:32 AM

it would be good if the video would play

-- when I am not on Lumberjocks I am on @ http://thisoldworkshop.com where we allow free speech

View ScottinTexas's profile

ScottinTexas

108 posts in 692 days


#11 posted 02-01-2013 01:44 AM

I don’t even have a bandsaw, yet, but that video by Snodgrass blows me away

View REO's profile

REO

662 posts in 817 days


#12 posted 02-01-2013 02:16 AM

Blackie that is the best vid I have ever seen for set up of a band saw! Thanks!

My dad taught woodworking at the Vo tech in the early seventies. This brought back memories of his presentation. He didn’t do the snakes or the reindeer though. lol
back of the gullet centered and the guides all but touching. Then you don’t have to adjust the guides for different widths because the back of the gullet is supposed to be at the center line.

View muleskinner's profile

muleskinner

740 posts in 1180 days


#13 posted 02-01-2013 02:47 AM

I’ve been setting my blades centered on the wheel. I’m going to try centered on the back of the gullet next time. Good video.

Granted, I have minimal experience with a band saw and haven’t really developed a smooth technique yet but watching Snodgrass whipping that wood through those saws made me a little nervous. Is that standard for you band saw pros or was I right is thinking he was a little cavalier?

-- Visualize whirled peas

View derosa's profile

derosa

1557 posts in 1579 days


#14 posted 02-01-2013 02:53 AM

REO- My saw has too much flex in it, the guides need to be readjusted every time the blade changes width. My owner’s manual stipulated the center of the blade at the crown of the tire which comes close to the back of the gullet at the crown.

-- --Rev. Russ in NY-- A posse ad esse

View John Ormsby's profile

John Ormsby

1281 posts in 2480 days


#15 posted 02-01-2013 02:59 AM

Carbide tooth blades are usually put on bandsaws with flat tires. They are adjusted so the teeth are free of the band towards the front. That way they the teeth will not damage the tires.
The deepest part of the gullet should be in the center of the tire.

Carter has a great youtube video on how to adjust bandsaws and bandsaw tires. They really know their stuff when it comes to bandsaws.

Here is the youtube link:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU

-- Oldworld, Fair Oaks, Ca

showing 1 through 15 of 26 replies

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