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Where do you install your blade on your band saw?

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7K views 35 replies 28 participants last post by  kelvancra 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
I always install my blade in the center of the tire on my band saw but last night I was watching a video and the presentator insisted that the blade should be installed at the very front of the tire.
What do you prefer?
Why?
Bertrand
 
#3 ·
I've been using a 1/4 inch these days, but even the thicker blades will push back when stressed so starting at the front of the wheel allows room to move on the wheel I would think. I know my blade will move a bit.
 
#8 ·
anywhere where I can be sure the teeth will never contact metal. so it probably makes sense to load it towards the front if you are sure it tracks properly.

as far as tracking goes, if you want to get a purple fingernail without polish, spin the upper wheel on a Delta and catch that bolt behind it.

as far as metal on metal, does anybody have an idea of what to do with blades where that happens? don't say to keep cutting wood because it won't.
 
#10 ·
depends on the type of blade I suppose, if the teeth are staggered to each side then the the teeth need not hit the wheels, however, if it's like the majority of bandsaw blades then it's fine if the teeth roll across the whiles, it won't hurt them as it's flat against the wheels. As for old dull blades, they make good card scrapers when cut up, flattened and burnished.
 
#13 · (Edited by Moderator)
Blackie that is the best vid I have ever seen for set up of a band saw! Thanks!

My dad taught woodworking at the Vo tech in the early seventies. This brought back memories of his presentation. He didn't do the snakes or the reindeer though. lol
back of the gullet centered and the guides all but touching. Then you don't have to adjust the guides for different widths because the back of the gullet is supposed to be at the center line.
 
#14 · (Edited by Moderator)
I've been setting my blades centered on the wheel. I'm going to try centered on the back of the gullet next time. Good video.

Granted, I have minimal experience with a band saw and haven't really developed a smooth technique yet but watching Snodgrass whipping that wood through those saws made me a little nervous. Is that standard for you band saw pros or was I right is thinking he was a little cavalier?
 
#15 ·
REO- My saw has too much flex in it, the guides need to be readjusted every time the blade changes width. My owner's manual stipulated the center of the blade at the crown of the tire which comes close to the back of the gullet at the crown.
 
#16 · (Edited by Moderator)
Carbide tooth blades are usually put on bandsaws with flat tires. They are adjusted so the teeth are free of the band towards the front. That way they the teeth will not damage the tires.
The deepest part of the gullet should be in the center of the tire.

Carter has a great youtube video on how to adjust bandsaws and bandsaw tires. They really know their stuff when it comes to bandsaws.

Here is the youtube link:

 
#17 ·
Derosa often the flex is caused by over tensoining the blade. The blade tension scales on the tool are not accurate. most of the time people feel the need to over tighten because they want to push the material through to fast. We had several big band saws one was a 48" old iron that we got for 200.00 dollars because the blade kept jumping off the wheel. The fellow worked at a Dplant where they resawed material for trim and he was just feeding the saw to fast which changed the tracking on the upper wheel to the point that the blade would come off. we happily took his problem off his hands and ran the saw for years. the usual blade was 3/4" but we did run all the way down to 1/4" for cutting small circles and some 1" for resawing.

We had to build it into a platform because the table was so high it originally set into the floor. it also had wooden wheels with iron spokes. People would back up when it was turned on cause it was scary if you weren't used to it. the blade would just whistle and the spokes disappeared.
 
#18 ·
Yea John see up above your post a bit in my post I just posted the very same video, great information in it.
 
#19 ·
John I think that is the same video blackie posted it would not play in full screen on my laptop- and I have the fattest pipe Comcast offers so it has to be on you tubes end but I watched even though it was not smooth I did learn some stuff but I also was affirmed about some stuff like coplanar is not a great thing on modern saws. I think the video rocked it should have tens of thousands of hits but it oddly does not.

How is the weather up in sac it was over 70 here yesterday I will be applying stripper today in hopes that it will be warm enough to work I hate the heat I hate the cold I need to move to Vegas or phoenix

I am curious how many of you guys removed your table to set up your band saw before watching this video. Mine has only been off the day I got the saw. I really will re tune my band saw and I think i will buy the Carter guide he used to make the band-saw box and the snake. I used to use my band saw all the time but now it gets used once or twice a week. I need to add a riser block so I can re-saw more thickness or get a band-saw like yours John.
 
#25 ·
Recently installed 1/4" haltbar blade on my band saw, I tightened down my blades on the wheel and I center the blade on the tires.
 
#26 ·
@Blackie-Thanks for posting that link. Great information and well presented.

@muleskinner-I was a bit nervous when he was cutting out the reindeer. I was sort of expecting the product to have some bright red discoloration in it.
 
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