Forum topic by richardwootton | posted 01-30-2013 08:04 PM | 6255 views | 8 times favorited | 193 replies | ![]() |
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01-30-2013 08:04 PM |
I may be jumping the gun a bit here, but I haven’t seen a thread for planes we have made. I thought this might be a good spot for folks to show off their hand tool handiwork! -- Richard, Hot Springs, Ar -- Galoot In Training |
193 replies so far
#1 posted 01-30-2013 09:35 PM |
I just bought a wooden bodied jointer plane at a flea market for $4.00 I probably over paid by about $3.75 it has a cast iron piece that sits on top of the body almost shaped like a rolling pin with a square hole that the frog sets in. Those are the only salvageable parts. I want to make a new body using oak with a black walnut sole fused together in a butt joint style. The sides would also be black walnut, so the front and back would look something like this. I’ll post a picture of the $4.00 jointer that I bought when USB connection to my phone decides that it’s no longer on strike. -- I'm a twisted 2x4 in a pile of straight lumber. |
#2 posted 01-30-2013 09:48 PM |
Emma, instead of using the USB function, just email the photo to yourself… download it and then do what you want with it. -- Improvise.... Adapt...... Overcome! |
#3 posted 01-30-2013 10:09 PM |
Good idea Dallas! So, this is kinda what the side would look like except that the proportions all are obviously way off. The body that’s on it now is about the same height and width as a 2×4 and is about 22” long. -- I'm a twisted 2x4 in a pile of straight lumber. |
#4 posted 01-30-2013 10:24 PM |
There’s no need for using finger joints for the plane body, and would be difficult to pull off to boot. All you really need to do is dimension the lumber properly and glue it up. If you search this site for “Krenov plane” you’ll find a ton of projects similar to your plan. Oak is actually harder than black walnut, so you’re basically better off either making the main body walnut with an oak sole or making the entire thing oak. -- ian | "You can't stop what's coming. It ain't all waiting on you. That's vanity." |
#5 posted 01-30-2013 10:39 PM |
I was shooting for a bit of style Sham. i knew that finger jointing wouldn’t be easy so I figured I practice on some scrap 2×4’s. As long as I can get the fingers and the spaces between the fingers the same on both pieces the side can be flushed on a table saw. Matthias Wandle and a buddy of his were making his wood gear box joint jigs and selling them but they decided that they could never get the money out of them that their time and effort was worth so they stopped. -- I'm a twisted 2x4 in a pile of straight lumber. |
#6 posted 01-30-2013 10:54 PM |
As long as I can get the fingers and the spaces between the fingers the same on both pieces the side can be flushed on a table saw. There’s the rub. That’s a loooong finger joint. You’d best look into making or buying a finger-joint jig, and for sure you’ll have to buy a flat-topped dado blade (I’ve got a Freud box-joint blade set that cuts perfectly flat and clean), or do it on a router table. You can’t use a regular table saw blade, because it doesn’t make flat cuts. The router table method is fraught, because you’ll probably have to make multiple passes to get the depth, but you’ll need to avoid any tearout. I’m not trying to discourage you, because I think I’ve been where you’re at now. But I enjoyed woodworking a lot more when I simplified my plans and techniques to match my skill level, whereas before I was constantly running up against things that didn’t work out as I expected. -- ian | "You can't stop what's coming. It ain't all waiting on you. That's vanity." |
#7 posted 01-30-2013 11:39 PM |
Thanks shampeon, I do have a router table. I’m guessing there’s similar jigs for router tables. Here’s a picture of the jointer plane I plan on using the parts from. -- I'm a twisted 2x4 in a pile of straight lumber. |
#8 posted 01-31-2013 12:33 AM |
I built Stumpy Nubs’s version of a wooden geared box joint machine. |
#9 posted 01-31-2013 12:38 AM |
-- http://timetestedtools.net - Collecting is an investment in the past, and the future. |
#10 posted 01-31-2013 02:32 AM |
Thanks William, Thank Don W, -- I'm a twisted 2x4 in a pile of straight lumber. |
#11 posted 01-31-2013 02:42 AM |
Emma, I’d say you’ve got a #33 or #34 transitional. -- http://timetestedtools.net - Collecting is an investment in the past, and the future. |
#12 posted 01-31-2013 02:46 AM |
Should look like this?? Stanley #33 28” long. -- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use |
#13 posted 01-31-2013 03:19 AM |
Yes! Thanks Don and Bandit! That looks like the one. What is the name of the iron part that the tote and knob are setting on? That part and the frog aren’t in very bad shape. Some de-rusting jelly, EMMA-ry paper and black semi gloss engine enamel will take care of those. As far as the hardware I need a iron, chip breaker and lever cap… then it all wood from there. -- I'm a twisted 2x4 in a pile of straight lumber. |
#14 posted 01-31-2013 03:25 AM |
That iron is a WIDE one, same width as a #8 iron. It is 2-5/8” wide. Chip breaker might switch from the #8 over to the #33, but the lever cap won’t. -- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use |
#15 posted 01-31-2013 03:47 AM |
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