Planes You Have Made

I just bought a wooden bodied jointer plane at a flea market for $4.00 I probably over paid by about $3.75 it has a cast iron piece that sits on top of the body almost shaped like a rolling pin with a square hole that the frog sets in. Those are the only salvageable parts. I want to make a new body using oak with a black walnut sole fused together in a butt joint style. The sides would also be black walnut, so the front and back would look something like this.

I’ll post a picture of the $4.00 jointer that I bought when USB connection to my phone decides that it’s no longer on strike.

-- I'm a twisted 2x4 in a pile of straight lumber.

Emma, instead of using the USB function, just email the photo to yourself… download it and then do what you want with it.

-- Improvise.... Adapt...... Overcome!

Good idea Dallas!

So, this is kinda what the side would look like except that the proportions all are obviously way off. The body that’s on it now is about the same height and width as a 2×4 and is about 22” long.

-- I'm a twisted 2x4 in a pile of straight lumber.

There’s no need for using finger joints for the plane body, and would be difficult to pull off to boot. All you really need to do is dimension the lumber properly and glue it up. If you search this site for “Krenov plane” you’ll find a ton of projects similar to your plan.

Oak is actually harder than black walnut, so you’re basically better off either making the main body walnut with an oak sole or making the entire thing oak.

-- ian | "You can't stop what's coming. It ain't all waiting on you. That's vanity."

I was shooting for a bit of style Sham. i knew that finger jointing wouldn’t be easy so I figured I practice on some scrap 2×4’s. As long as I can get the fingers and the spaces between the fingers the same on both pieces the side can be flushed on a table saw.

Matthias Wandle and a buddy of his were making his wood gear box joint jigs and selling them but they decided that they could never get the money out of them that their time and effort was worth so they stopped.

-- I'm a twisted 2x4 in a pile of straight lumber.

As long as I can get the fingers and the spaces between the fingers the same on both pieces the side can be flushed on a table saw.

There’s the rub. That’s a loooong finger joint. You’d best look into making or buying a finger-joint jig, and for sure you’ll have to buy a flat-topped dado blade (I’ve got a Freud box-joint blade set that cuts perfectly flat and clean), or do it on a router table. You can’t use a regular table saw blade, because it doesn’t make flat cuts.

The router table method is fraught, because you’ll probably have to make multiple passes to get the depth, but you’ll need to avoid any tearout.

I’m not trying to discourage you, because I think I’ve been where you’re at now. But I enjoyed woodworking a lot more when I simplified my plans and techniques to match my skill level, whereas before I was constantly running up against things that didn’t work out as I expected.

-- ian | "You can't stop what's coming. It ain't all waiting on you. That's vanity."

Thanks shampeon,

I do have a router table. I’m guessing there’s similar jigs for router tables.

Here’s a picture of the jointer plane I plan on using the parts from.

-- I'm a twisted 2x4 in a pile of straight lumber.

I built Stumpy Nubs’s version of a wooden geared box joint machine.
It was fairly easy to build and works great.
Just an idea if you wanted to make a machine to do it.

-- http://wddsrfinewoodworks.blogspot.com/

-- There is nothing like the sound of a well tuned hand plane. - http://timetestedtools.wordpress.com (timetestedtools at hotmail dot c0m)

Thanks William,
Stumpy kind of has a Red Green style to his videos just without the duct tape.

Thank Don W,
Have ever made any wooden joint planes? Can you identify the one I posted?

-- I'm a twisted 2x4 in a pile of straight lumber.

Emma, I’d say you’ve got a #33 or #34 transitional.

-- There is nothing like the sound of a well tuned hand plane. - http://timetestedtools.wordpress.com (timetestedtools at hotmail dot c0m)

Should look like this??

Stanley #33 28” long.

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

Yes! Thanks Don and Bandit! That looks like the one.

What is the name of the iron part that the tote and knob are setting on? That part and the frog aren’t in very bad shape. Some de-rusting jelly, EMMA-ry paper and black semi gloss engine enamel will take care of those. As far as the hardware I need a iron, chip breaker and lever cap… then it all wood from there.

-- I'm a twisted 2x4 in a pile of straight lumber.

That iron is a WIDE one, same width as a #8 iron. It is 2-5/8” wide. Chip breaker might switch from the #8 over to the #33, but the lever cap won’t.

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

Here are a some that I have made.

http://i.imgur.com/DgMHQl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/4JFQCl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/AuQIHl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/Qgq9Ol.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/3750rl.jpg