Need help making this trim profile

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Forum topic by opalko posted 01-30-2013 03:50 PM 843 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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148 posts in 3035 days

01-30-2013 03:50 PM

Topic tags/keywords: molding trim router shaper

A good friend of mine is adding onto their late 19th century home and wants to be able to use trim that looks as close as possible. He’s asked me for help, and I’m asking you for yours! He has done woodworking in the past for some previous renovations and had a shaper cutter make a piece quite similar to the original. Unfortunately he no longer has the bit and unable to find a good replacement.

Below is a photo of the profiles of the original trim piece (which he calls “shoe molding”), and the replacement he made years ago. Any ideas on how to fabricate something like this some other way? All the ogee bits I’ve found are too tight radiused to make the lower slope.


6 replies so far

View 489tad's profile


3366 posts in 3011 days

#1 posted 01-30-2013 03:54 PM

Maybe if you ran the trim at a angle to the bit you might get more of a slope. I did that to match cabinet door trim using a long round bottomed bit. Good luck.

-- Dan, Naperville IL, I.G.N.

View waho6o9's profile


8191 posts in 2576 days

#2 posted 01-30-2013 04:02 PM

View bondogaposis's profile


4727 posts in 2350 days

#3 posted 01-30-2013 07:17 PM

You could use a combination of a round over bit and cove bit on a router table.

-- Bondo Gaposis

View BentheViking's profile


1782 posts in 2563 days

#4 posted 01-30-2013 08:05 PM

+1 on bondos suggestion

-- It's made of wood. Real sturdy.--Chubbs Peterson

View opalko's profile


148 posts in 3035 days

#5 posted 01-30-2013 08:06 PM

I’m going to get a cove bit and test this. Thanks for the idea.

View stnich's profile


118 posts in 2924 days

#6 posted 01-31-2013 12:19 AM

I’ve done something similar to this using part of a larger round over bit first to get the ovolo shape, then used a core box bit lowering the bit a little at a time so as not to stress the bit. Then a little sanding to make the transition between the two.
I had to do it free hand with an edge guide because of the nature of the profile. I had to use three or four different bits to accomplish the profile that I needed.

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