Chisel help please??

Coming from a woodcarver of about 6 years, I would suggest starting out with just a couple of chisels. I made the mistake of buying a set of knives when I first started. I thought cool now that I have knives I can carve. Out of the set of 10, I might use 5. I would suggest buying a couple of chisels and start with that. After carving for a while, you will see which other tools you will need. As for the brand, I believe it is personnal choice.

-- Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didin't do then by the ones you did. - Mark Twain

You are going to get a lot of different answers than mine, and I’ll probably get pummeled… lol… but here it goes…

I bought a 5-set package of chisels from sears about 10 years ago for $20. Nothing fancy. I’ve used them in construction and pounded the heck out of them. When I want to do something fine in the shop, I sharpen them and they work terrific. I may be seriously missing out on some other “Super carbon double rolled laser guided triple titanium max epoxy bonded japanese master chisel”...(for a thousand bucks)..lol.. but mine still work great- for twenty bucks.

I’m a firm believer in the fact that you don’t have to have something really expensive to have it work correctly. It’s your own confidence and practice that makes the tool work.

Just my .02cents…
—Steve

-- As iron sharpens iron, so one man sharpens another. (Proverbs 27:17)

the Blue Marples are pretty good and are not too expensive – make sure you get those that are “made in england” though!

another brand that got good reviews are the Czech Republic’s Narex – they sell them at LeeValley and Amazon

Also Rockler is having this special for Japanese Chisel Set but I wouldn’t use those on a normal day-to-day basis

-- My Drinking Club has a Woodworking Problem...

The Marples would be fine, think about sharpening…I have a double sided DMT 3×10 600/1200 which is a great stone ( not really a stone ) for the bench…it’s also wide enough for a sharpening guide if you wanted at some point …...for plane blades and such..
Steve also made an excellent point….if you watch the close out pages online…you can find excellent individual european style chisels at bargain prices…HT 2C and such.. After working with the marples set for some time you will have a better idea as to which chisel you reach for most often…then you can upgrade to a high quality steel chisel..just for those sizes…for example 1” and 3/8” are mine..

-- If knowledge is not shared, it is forgotten.

Thanks for all the replies guys. I am starting to lean toward getting a set of the blue marples. This will like you said get me started.After a while I will probably have a better idea of my needs then I can upgrade. I could still keep the Marples for backup and maybe rougher jobs that I wouldn’t want to use high dollar chisels on.

I love my 4 chiesel set of Marples. They hold and edge and aren’t that hard to get sharp.

-- Adrian ..... The 11th Commandment...."Thou Shalt Not Buy A Wobble Dado"

The again, just when I think I have made a decision I read another tool review somewhere and I change my mind. Good grief! And to think, my last relpy sounded so level headed. LOL!

I have considered getting 2 cherries chisels. Seems like from what I read these were really good quality. Maybe start with a 1/4 and a 1/2 inch pair. I don’t know. I am just trying to be careful. I have bought tools before that ended up being junk and a waste of money and am determined not to do this. I have also bought cheap tools before only to end up upgrading very soon afterwards which was also a waste of money. Obviously with money getting tighter and tighter and everything costing more and more I want to be careful about what I spend my hard earned money on. I definately don’t want to end up with cheap, low quality tools. That being said, I don’t want to buy anything just cause its expensive.

Ok guys, I’m done rambling.

2 cherries are exelent! they are hard and hold an edge very well. the last marples I bought were junk. would not stay sharp at all. I’ve had older marples that were good. seems they have dropped in quality recently. also highland hardware carries a brand that I dont remember the name of. :-[. I’ve never tried them but the reviews look good. rc hardness of 61 or better should be good steel. if you are going to pound on them I would recomend phenolic handles instead of wood.

skeez

-- hey honey! watch this!

I suggest learning to sharpen the chisels before buying something expensive.
For a long time, I was frustrated with chisels because they never seem to be sharp enough. But I learned this was because I was sharpening them incorrectly. Buy some good sharpening stones and a sharpening jig. There are several sharpening tutorials out there online.
Two Cherries are a good brand, I have their scrapers and chisels. I also have several Ohio Tool Co chisels, which are excellent. I got these at an estate sell for $1 – $2 a piece. For most of my hand tools, I go to estate sales and look for the old stuff. They are usually very cheap and high quality. Just make sure they have enough life left in them.

I have Pfeil Swiss Made chisels and I love them. Check out Woodcraft.com you can order them ala cart or as sets. They hold an edge and have a great feel to them. FFW just did a chisel review in the SEPT/OCT 2008 issue and the Pfeil came in runner up (best overall was Lie-Nielsen). A set of 4 cost $110

-- Brian, Folsom, CA http://www.brianfullerdesigns.com

Thanks guys. I think I am gonna go with the 2 Cherries. The Pfeil chisels do look nice as well. If you were gonna buy say 2 to get started with, what size would you recommend? I was thinking 1/4 ” and mayybe 1/2” or 3/4”. Any suggestions. I guess I am asking if you could only have 2 chisels, what 2 sizes would you get?

Appreciate all the info.

1/2” is a for sure, then you need to decide if you are going to work in to very small places (ie dovetails/narrow mortises) if yes then 1/4” will be great other wise look at somethinging wider….

While learning to sharpen the 1/4” is a big challenge as it is very easy to rock side to side and put a camber on the blade….

-- //FC - Round Rock, TX - "Experience is what you get just after you need it"

You have had some good advice on the posts. I will just reinforce what several have said. Even the most expensive chisels need some work. First, always flatten the back. I mean down to where it shines like a mirror. then the bevels. (plural). Whether its scarey sharp, waterstones, whatever. I have a Veritas MkII jig, and I love it. I don’t believe those who say they can get a consistent bevel by eye alone. As to size, I would get a 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, and 1”

I agree withyou that there is alot of good advise here. This is why I love this site. Everyone is very helpful and kind. Alot of sites would just give you alot of flaming and very little info. I will definately need to look into a good system for sharpening. Also with the steel being so hard, the 2 cherries will probably be more work to sharpen but should also hold an edge very good.

Thanks alot guys

Trice, since budget is a concern for an entry level set, I’m going to chime in with SteveKorz, but toss my hat in for the $25 basic set of Stanley Fat Max chisels. ( Individual pieces run from $8 to $18 up to 2”) I have the full set from 1/4” to 2”.

The Fat Max with the full through tangs are made in both China and in England, ,but typically the sets are of Chinese origin, and the individual pieces are from Sheffield England. Look closely at the package if the source matters for you.

My initial surprize was that the Chinese set had a very useable edge fresh from the package. seemingly better than the English versions.

They’re readily available at the blue ‘borg store’.

They’re inexpensive enough that you won’t be afraid to use them.

They have an edge guard that snaps in place to protect the individual chisel.

I like the handle size with combo plastic and rubber grip for a better fit in my medium / large and sometimes sweaty hands.

Take the money you’ve saved and follow cmadea’s advice on a good sharpening jig and stones. I honed a couple of sizes that had the misfortune of falling on the concrete floor, they take a good edge and seem to hold it well.

Good luck with your journey.

Q

-- I don't make sawdust...I produce vast quantities of "Micro Mulch."

If I had to decide on just two sizes I would go with 1/4” & 1/2” then I would follow up with the 3/4” & 1”. After that add a 3/8” & 5/8” and you are good to go. I actually use a 3/8” a lot when cleaning out mortises by hand. Since 3/4” stock is widely used and tenons are generally 1/2 the thickness of the stock I find it a very handy size but you can use a 1/4”to do the same thing. I do think you are better off buying quality over quantity from the start and build the set as money allows. In the long run you end up spending less and hand tools if treated right will last a life time.

-- Brian, Folsom, CA http://www.brianfullerdesigns.com

Trice, the Marples set is a good starting place. Sharpen them good and they’ll give you good service, then you can up grade, after you see which ones you use the most. If you want to buy higher quality, one at a time, I think for furniture making, the 1/4” and 3/8” are the most used. A 1/2” mortise in 3/4” lumber will give you a less than superior joint. A 3/8” mortise and tenon are the optimal for strength in 3/4”-7/8” lumber.
I started with a Marples set and also have a set of Old Japanese mortise chisels that I picked up one at a time at Japanese flea markets. The difference is noticeable between the two brands as far as ability to get a keep a fine edge.

-- Tim -- http://tmuli.com

I have a nice set of chisels, but I always found my self using them in ways the weren’t intended like removing harden glue. So when at Highland’s Woodworkings in Atlanta I bought a set of the Narex. These were really inexpensive and I planned to use them in those situation, where I didn’t want to use my “nice” chisels. Well, I was pleasantly surprised by these chisels. They are really good chisels especially when you consider the price. They sharpened easily and hold their edge. But now I don’t want to use them to pop or scrape glue. So if you are looking for a good set of to get started with, I recommend the Narex chisels. pkennedy

-- P Kennedy Crossville, TN

Marples are great, but I would definitely urge you toward something a little more resilient if you are going to be giving them some hard use. As Brian mentioned the Pfeill’s are pretty nice, and the Ashley Iles had a great review ($125 for a set of 6, although they reviewed the Butt chisel and called it the American Pattern- that was a typo). Also, the Hirsch set of 6 that Lee Valley sells for $120 is the same as the Two Cherries. Just some things to think about. My most important criteria is edge rentention; I don’t want to be re-shapening after every dovetail… I think you would ultimately be dissapointed with the Marples if you plan to use them heavily.

Regards, JM

-- Jarrod, Eagle Nest, NM http://anthologyfinefurniture.wordpress.com

I notice a lot of people here suggest getting the Hirch, and Two Cherries… for a starter chisel?

Mind you … if you’re budget is $125 – that means that it should be invested ~$45 for chisels and ~$80 sharpening/honing setup

let me state that again – if you’re budget is $125, and you buy $125 worth of chisels – you’ll have $125 worth of metal with wooden handles. to turn these into a sharp workable chisels – you’ll need to invest once more in sharpening/honing equipment (jig+sandpapers/stones) and a good time of reading/watching videos and practicing how to properly hone your blades.

-- My Drinking Club has a Woodworking Problem...

PurpLev said it… hit the nail on the head. You can have a 1000 dollar chisel, but if you can’t sharpen it or know how to use it, what’s the use? You’ll be waiting with a dull chisel in frustration, wondering why the chisel is performing like something you bought rusted and chipped at a yard sale.

-- As iron sharpens iron, so one man sharpens another. (Proverbs 27:17)

I too agree with Steve and PurpLev; Learning to sharpen them is the biggest part of the effort. I was given a set of four Marples and am no sorry to have them. They are not the best but far from the worst…....

Invest your money in the sharpening medium of your choice and a decent guide; maybe take a class in sharpening or at least read a fair bit then have at it. I personally gravitated toward water stones. The least expensive route for sharpening is the “Scary Sharp” method which uses Silicon Carbide sandpaper.

What ever you learn from sharpening your chisels will translate to other edge tools as well…. It’s time well spent in my opinion.

-- Chris

I am gonna look into the Narex chisels since they have very good reviews and are quite inexpensive. You guys are right about the sharpening. If they aint sharp it really doesn’t matter if they cost a fortune. All I have right now is an Arkansas stone. I am pretty good at sharpening but have never sharpened chisels so I don’t know how much my previous experiences will carry over.

to sharpen and hone a chisel – you’ll need more then just an arkansas stone – you’ll need to step through grits and eventually polish the blade to a mirror-like shine if you really want to be able to enjoy working with those chisels. Narex is a VERY good choice, as was what I was about to order before someone gave me a different set.

I myself use the scary sharp method to sharpen my chisels as this is a very cheap/inexpensive way to get your chisels sharpen. so far I’m getting such great unbelievable results that I dont think I’ll ever use any other method. wet/dry sandpapers at all the different grits was total at $20 maybe (cause I bought packs of papers) and the sharpening jig (Veritas MK-II) was really the only “expensive” purchase – but it has already paid itself off.

check out my review of the MK-II – I also blogged the scary-sharp method there. and you can find more info on those online here and elsewhere.

-- My Drinking Club has a Woodworking Problem...

PurpLev- Wow! That is quite a write-up on “scary sharp”... I don’t know how I missed it… Thanks for linking that.

—Steve

-- As iron sharpens iron, so one man sharpens another. (Proverbs 27:17)

I would mention that the Buck Bros “Made in USA” “Lifetime Guarantee” chisels are good steel and inexpensive ($8 to $15 each depending on size) and sold at Home Depot. Don’t buy the set of the cheaper Buck Bros ones unless you want something to open a paint can. The Two Cherries and Narex are also good ones. Stay away from the Crown chisels, as they will chip out with little force if you use them on any hard wood like white oak or sugar maple. I haven’t tried the Stanley Fat Max, so cannot comment on them.

The downside is they will take a bit of honing and a lot of effort to flatten the milling marks out of the back. Once sharp, they are good.

As for sizes, I will go against the flow here and recommend a 1/4, 3/8 mortise (straight sides) and 5/8, and 1” bench (bevel edged). The 1/4 and 3/8 are common sizes for chopping mortises or cleaning out tight dovetails. The 5/8 will let you clean up dadoes, etc when using todays undersized “3/4” lumber. The wider one (1” or more) will be handy in paring down tenons, smoothing long mortise sides, or flattening the bottom of a hinge recess in doors, etc.

Sharpening is key, and I second the Mark II Veritas guide recommendation. You may want to change the bevels for paring, or stiffen them up for chopping mortises, so start with some that are not too expensive. I would take some of that initial money and spend it on sharpening supplies, as without the ability to get them flat on the back, and the correct bevels for your use, the most expensive chisel you can buy will soon be of little use. Scary sharp is relatively inexpensive, and safe as you won’t burn the temper out. You do need a flat surface (the glass shelf out of a medicine cabinet will work) and a honing guide, and you can get up to 2000 grit paper at an automotive store.

If you are planning on expanding your hand tools to hand planes, carving tools, saws, etc , Leonard Lee’s “The Complete Guide to Sharpening” is an excellent reference for learning how and to what angle you want to sharpen a tool for whatever purpose you are using it for.

Go

-- Go http://ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=730

Fine wood working just did a review of 23 chisels and listed narex as the best value of the western chisels. you can find this on line if you hunt. regular sizes run 6$ to $7 each. at that price you can afford 1/2 a dozen and still have the money to get a really good sharpening system. rt

-- RTB. "dumb animals are not stupid they simply can't talk "

Marples- keep them sharp. You’ll figure out what you want after that. For scraping glue and that crap off the sole of your shoe, Buck Bros. 1/2”. bbqKing

-- bbqKing, Lawrenceville

I think at times there can be a bargain to be had and I got these last time I was in the US from Craftsmanstudio in San Diego. The sharpened up great and stay sharp for such a good price! I have another set by Ashley Iles and don’t think they are any worse. Have used LN, Blue Spruce, and other well known brands. Have not opened any cans of paint with them but made some items posted on the projects page, inc a whole lot of dovetails on a sideboard and used the 2” for mitre cuts on veneer for a table top.

Buck Bros.Bench Chisels – Set of 9 Sale Price: $89.95

http://www.craftsmanstudio.com/html_p/C!00730.htm

If you work in imperial measurements, get actual INCH measured tools. This goes double for mortise chisels.

An actual 3/8 chisel is much easier to use when cleaning things cut by a 3/8” power tool, than, say a 9mm. I have metric measured hand chisels and didn’t realize just how much easier things could get until I used real imperial-sized tools.

If the metric tool is slightly smaller than the similar imperial size, you need to make multiple passes. If the metric tool is larger, it won’t fit.

Learn from my mistake…

-- - Real men read directions