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Plunge router issue

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Forum topic by Betsy posted 01-28-2013 06:32 PM 570 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Betsy

2914 posts in 2620 days


01-28-2013 06:32 PM

Topic tags/keywords: trammel

Okay – this is a little bit of a rant caused by frustration. I’ve been out of the shop a long time and am working on small projects to get myself back in the swing of things. I want to make some of these trivets http://lumberjocks.com/projects/78314 which Nelson has done such a nice job on. I’ve made the jig which was quite easy however, I am having issues getting a trammel made for the plunge router.

Now I know I’ve done this before but it seems that I can’t get the screw holes to line up after I’ve drilled them. I’ve used the router plate to mark and drill the holes but whenever I go to put in the screws it seems as though my holes have moved!

Does anyone have a bit of wisdom about what I am missing in this process? It seems so simple but obviously I’m not doing something right.

Here is the rant part—- why don’t they make routers with holes through the top to attach to a trammel – seems like such a simplier solution than trying to attach something from the bottom.

Thanks in advance.

-- Like a bad penny, I keep coming back!


6 replies so far

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

1985 posts in 1218 days


#1 posted 01-28-2013 06:42 PM

If you’re using twist drills to drill the holes, they may be wondering from your mark…a drill press would help with this. But you can do it free hand with brad point bits as well. Just a guess…..

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View Betsy's profile

Betsy

2914 posts in 2620 days


#2 posted 01-28-2013 06:55 PM

Hum that’s a simple thing. I was using a twist bit. It’s all these little things you forget when you are out of the shop. Thanks Fred.

-- Like a bad penny, I keep coming back!

View pintodeluxe's profile

pintodeluxe

3515 posts in 1538 days


#3 posted 01-28-2013 07:00 PM

1+ use brad point bits or forstner bits. Much better results.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View Loren's profile

Loren

7809 posts in 2372 days


#4 posted 01-28-2013 07:01 PM

Sometimes when I want very precise relationships between
holes (usually not in wood) I’ll centerpunch my markings,
double check the punch distances with a dial caliper,
then drill the first hole with a 1/16” bit. Then I check
the distance of the hole to the other centerpunch,
then drill the next hole, adding a bit of “english if needed
to compensate for the first hole not being perfectly
located.

Once the two holes are drilled, I enlarge them with
a larger twist drill.

-- http://lawoodworking.com

View lew's profile

lew

10131 posts in 2480 days


#5 posted 01-28-2013 08:51 PM

To keep the holes from moving, after I drill them, I usually tape them in place with duct tape, Betsy.

Just kidding!

Anyway, there are a couple of other things you can try- along with the brad point bits. I have clamped the router plastic base onto my workpiece and used the holes as drill guides to mark the centers. Another thing, if you have them, are the self centering bits used to drill holes for hinges. Not certain if the diameter of the “centerer” would be the correct size to fit your router base.

-- Lew- Time traveler. Purveyor of the Universe's finest custom rolling pins.

View Mark Shymanski's profile

Mark Shymanski

5115 posts in 2437 days


#6 posted 01-28-2013 11:46 PM

Did you flip the router plate over? While this doesn’t change the topological relationship between holes it can mess with which hole we think matches the hole in the router…hole 1 to hole 1a hole 2 now orients in such a way that it doesn’t line up with 2a or even 3a.

-- "Checking for square? What madness is this! The cabinet is square because I will it to be so!" Jeremy Greiner LJ Topic#20953 2011 Feb 2

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