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Forum topic by Kevin_WestCO posted 446 days ago 1318 views 0 times favorited 24 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Kevin_WestCO

60 posts in 1048 days


446 days ago

I’ve been working on trying to increase the amount of hand tools in my collection and have not had a proper method of sharpening figured out. I purchased a Makita 9820-2 shapener to do my planer and joiner blades and have been using this to sharpen my blades which isn’t giving me a good enough edge for some of my projects. I have a 1000 grit stone installed on the grinder and it works pretty good for initial sharpening but I’m not getting a paper cutting edge from the grinder. I need a hand refining system to finish off my tools.

I’m concidering the scary sharp system mainly because I have a large amount of granite 3cm remnants from countertop projects left in my bone pile. I’ve read MANY conflicting opinions on this method but haven’t tried it myself. (Lacking honing jig). I’m also concidering purchasing some Norton stones and a Diamond stone. I want to set up a good method the first time and would like some Jocks opinions on which way I should go. I’m not opposed to spending a little money on a system but would prefer to only make one investment.

Thanks in advance!


24 replies so far

View crank49's profile

crank49

3245 posts in 1472 days


#1 posted 446 days ago

I like the scary sharp method.
My dad taught it to me 50 years ago.

If I had the money I’d like a Work-sharp 3000, just because it’s faster.

For rough shaping I use a disk sander or an 8” grinder.

-- Michael :-{| Diapers and politicians both need to be changed often; and for the same reason.

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Kevin_WestCO

60 posts in 1048 days


#2 posted 446 days ago

Crank-
Thanks for the reply.

Main complant I’ve heard is that it takes too long and uses alot of paper. Do you use a honing jig? How long does a chisel take to shapen?

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akmiller907

40 posts in 578 days


#3 posted 446 days ago

I bought the Worksharp 3000 and absolutely love it. Quick and easy and puts a very nice edge on plane irons and chisels. Also have a Veritas sharpening jig and water stones but they have not been used since I got the Worksharp. If I was going to spend more money I would look at a Tormek or the Robert Sorby Pro Edge system. But that being said the Worksharp is a much better bang for your buck. I paid $200 at Sears. In

-- Kenny

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DIYaholic

11240 posts in 1176 days


#4 posted 446 days ago

I suggest the WorkSharp 3000. Quick & easy!!! You can save some dough, by getting the Stumpy Nubs Sharpening Station plans & using his setup!!! He also did a Blue Collar Wood Working episode about it.

Yeah, the WS3000 is the way to go!!!

-- Randy-- I may not be good...but I am slow! If good things come to those who wait.... Why is procratination a bad thing?

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Kevin_WestCO

60 posts in 1048 days


#5 posted 446 days ago

Kenny & Randy, thanks for replies! I’ve look at the WS system, even watched Stumpy’s video. When you shapen your tools, do you use the WS start to finish? Does it put a clean accurate edge on your blades?

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DIYaholic

11240 posts in 1176 days


#6 posted 445 days ago

Simple answer, YES!

However, if you are reshaping an abused mishapened tool, it may make sense to use a grinding wheel initially, to take the bulk of the metal off, then go over to the WS3000. That will save you some money on abrasive paper discs.

There are many ways to skin the cat….
But they ALL require a sharp blade!!! How you get that sharp blade boils down to proper technique and personal preference.

Have fun deciding which way will be BEST for you!!!

-- Randy-- I may not be good...but I am slow! If good things come to those who wait.... Why is procratination a bad thing?

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bobasaurus

1126 posts in 1685 days


#7 posted 445 days ago

I’m going to recommend the opposite route: waterstones and sharpening by hand without a guide/jig. All you really need is one coarse stone (1k grit) and one very fine stone (at least 8k grit). Lay the tool bevel down on the coarse stone, raise it up a hair, and hone for about 10 seconds till you feel a burr on the back. Then move to the finest stone and repeat the process, but raise the tool a hair more than before and hone until you can’t feel the original burr anymore (another 10 seconds, usually). Then flip the tool over and briefly hone the back flat against the stone to remove any tiny burrs. You have to constantly flatten the waterstones to get the best edge when sharpening, but this is quickly done with a coarse diamond plate (300 grit or so).

If your primary bevel becomes too worn or rounded from hand sharpening like this, you can use the grinder to hollow it back again before honing. This gives a nice reference surface for starting the freehand honing process.

I can sharpen plane irons and chisels in less than a minute this way. It works great once you get accustomed to the motions, and saves greatly on the jig setup chores that turn people away from frequent sharpening. I like shapton stones since you don’t need to soak them, but they are pricey.

-- Allen, Colorado

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Kevin_WestCO

60 posts in 1048 days


#8 posted 445 days ago

Bob-
I’ve actually been leaning more towards something like what you descibed. I’ve done a lot of woodworking and carpentry through out my career. I understand why some people lean towards a very methodical precise method such as a lot of videos I’ve seen on here and youtube. But honestly the main goal is to have a sharp edge, hinse the micro bevel, quick and easy to resharpen. Doing this quick and easily by hand and fixing periododically with the jig to correct a couple degrees just makes more sense and will make it so I’m more inclined to run to the stone if I need a better edge. Sharper tools are my intent and I’m sure that if it takes a long process, duller tools will be the result.

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Purrmaster

773 posts in 594 days


#9 posted 445 days ago

I’ll chime in with a yes vote for the Work Sharp 3000. It’s fast and if you use the sharpening port it’s basically impossible to screw up (though I’ve managed to do so utilizing my special talents). But it won’t work for jointer and planer knives. Vertias/Lee valley has a honing jig for planer knives.

If you want to get just get started on Scary Sharp it’s easiest to get Rockler’s “Glass plate sharpening” kit. It has the jig and the flat glass plate included.

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MonteCristo

2088 posts in 690 days


#10 posted 445 days ago

I had Lee Valley’s first power sharpener, which made all the copy cats look like a poor impersonation there of. I sold it because the abrasives are too damn expensive and don’t last long. And you can’t get as good an edge as you need for hand tooling. That requires a grit well in excess of 1000x. I now use a grinder, belt sander and diamond or water stones approach.

-- Dwight - "Free legal advice available - contact Dewey, Cheetam & Howe""

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lumberjoe

2798 posts in 749 days


#11 posted 445 days ago

I use scary sharp for the heavy removal, taking out nicks, and primary bevel establishment (up to 220 grit). After that I move to waterstones. 4k then 8k. For touch-up I go right to waterstones. I currently use a honing guide, but practice a lot without one.

I agree with the methodology that the exact angle is not quite as important as your ability to repeat the angle that is on your tool That all comes with practice and muscle memory.

-- www.etsy.com/shop/KandJWoodCrafts

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Purrmaster

773 posts in 594 days


#12 posted 445 days ago

I get sharp, shiny edges using 3M wet or dry sandpaper up to 2,5000 grit with both scary sharp by hand and with the WS3000. You are correct that 1,000 grit is much to coarse for honing.

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Cosmicsniper

2199 posts in 1660 days


#13 posted 445 days ago

BTW, I’ve been using PSA sandpaper disks from HF on my WS3000. It doesn’t last forever, but they are cheap as heck for when you need to get the edge started. Beats buying 80 or 120 disks made by the company.

-- jay, www.allaboutastro.com

View crank49's profile

crank49

3245 posts in 1472 days


#14 posted 445 days ago

Kevin asked, ”Do you use a honing jig? How long does a chisel take to sharpen?”
I do use an Empire type jig for paring chisels and plane irons. I build a homemade version of the Wolverine system to sharpen my lathe tools.

The key to speed is to not start with too fine of a grit.
I talked to one guy who had spent 8 hours trying to flatten the back of a chisel on 800 grit paper.
He could have started on 80 grit and worked his way through the grits in about 5 minutes.

Note, the grits on stones and paper and diamond plates are all different.

I normally touch up my edge on a hard felt wheel with green rouge (chrome oxide) in a couple of seconds for chisels. Plane irons take longer to get out of the plane and remount than to hone.

But beware, sharpening and honing are two different things. sharpening is what I do to a tool when I’m starting from scratch. Honing is the final polishing of the edge and is done frequently during use to keep it working smoothly. Or, at least that’s my story and I’m sticking to it.

-- Michael :-{| Diapers and politicians both need to be changed often; and for the same reason.

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nwbusa

1015 posts in 787 days


#15 posted 445 days ago

I went straight diamond stones, 220, 600, 1200, 4000, and 8000. I just didn’t want mess/maintenance to deal with on other systems. Not saying that diamond stones (plates, actually) are better, but they fit my needs. I use DMTs but there are other brands out there as well.

Edit: I also use and highly recommend the Veritas Mk.II honing guide—pretty much guarantees consistent results.

-- John, BC, Canada

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