Shop Insulation

  • Advertise with us

« back to Focus on the Workspace forum

Forum topic by CharlieW posted 01-27-2013 09:19 AM 1122 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View CharlieW's profile


28 posts in 1980 days

01-27-2013 09:19 AM

Hi all. I’m in the process of converting my attached 3 car garage to a wood shop. Prep is underway. I’m bringing in the electrician Monday to quote on a new sub-panel and new circuits, the epoxy floor goes down at the end of February and in the meantime I’ll be painting. I’m also going to bring in an HVAC guy to give me some options on conditioning the air. I’m in San Diego so we don’t get to much in extremes so I don’t need anything too major. The one problem I have is that the builder didn’t insulate the walls before being finished and I sure would like them to be insulated. Is there anyway to retrofit insulation without tearing the walls down (is blown in insulation in the walls an option?) Thanks all, I appreciate your thoughts.

6 replies so far

View Arminius's profile


304 posts in 3832 days

#1 posted 01-27-2013 11:11 AM

If it is just drywall against stud framing, blown-in cellulose or similar will be fine. In most climates a vapour barrier would be needed, but in San Diego for a garage I don’t think it will make much difference.

View CharlieW's profile


28 posts in 1980 days

#2 posted 01-27-2013 02:02 PM

Thanks! I think thats the ticket

View MedicKen's profile


1615 posts in 3491 days

#3 posted 01-27-2013 02:13 PM

Vapor barriers are not necessary in California. I did a complete overhaul of my garage, er shop, a few years ago. Complete removal of all the drywall. electrical upgrade, insulation and lighting. It was well worth it. I used R19 in the walls and R30 in the ceiling. It made a HUGE difference. If you dont want to get into the drywall portion, blown in would be fine. I would also insulate the ceiling/attic space as well. If you decide to have an electrician come in, the cost will be a lot less if they dont have to remove drywall. It may be more cost effective to strip it to the studs and have the electrical work done, that will then give you the opportunity to insulate and inspect the inside of the walls for termites, ants, and other problems. Drywall is cheap. termite damage on the other hand can be quite expensive to fix

-- My job is to give my kids things to discuss with their

View JesseTutt's profile


854 posts in 2139 days

#4 posted 01-27-2013 02:13 PM

If you are going to have an electrician install a sub-panel and outlets there will be some damage to the drywall. Also, drywall does not have much strength in holding for shelves, or even a nail to hang something from. It sounds like you are planning a first rate shop so you might consider removing the drywall, inserting regular fiberglass insulation and then covering the walls with plywood.

-- Jesse, Saint Louis, Missouri

View MrRon's profile


4800 posts in 3272 days

#5 posted 01-27-2013 07:30 PM

I would go with surface mount wiring and blown in insulation. Surface wiring (as opposed to hidden wiring in the wall) will allow you to expand or make changes without getting into the sheet rock.

View Jim Finn's profile

Jim Finn

2658 posts in 2951 days

#6 posted 01-28-2013 02:11 AM

I did all that MrRon suggested. In order to limit the work required I just made the holes to blow the insulation in, near the ceiling and covered them all with one long 1×6 and painted it to match the wall.

-- Website is No PHD just a DD214 and a GED

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics