Shop Insulation

If it is just drywall against stud framing, blown-in cellulose or similar will be fine. In most climates a vapour barrier would be needed, but in San Diego for a garage I don’t think it will make much difference.

Thanks! I think thats the ticket

Vapor barriers are not necessary in California. I did a complete overhaul of my garage, er shop, a few years ago. Complete removal of all the drywall. electrical upgrade, insulation and lighting. It was well worth it. I used R19 in the walls and R30 in the ceiling. It made a HUGE difference. If you dont want to get into the drywall portion, blown in would be fine. I would also insulate the ceiling/attic space as well. If you decide to have an electrician come in, the cost will be a lot less if they dont have to remove drywall. It may be more cost effective to strip it to the studs and have the electrical work done, that will then give you the opportunity to insulate and inspect the inside of the walls for termites, ants, and other problems. Drywall is cheap. termite damage on the other hand can be quite expensive to fix

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If you are going to have an electrician install a sub-panel and outlets there will be some damage to the drywall. Also, drywall does not have much strength in holding for shelves, or even a nail to hang something from. It sounds like you are planning a first rate shop so you might consider removing the drywall, inserting regular fiberglass insulation and then covering the walls with plywood.

-- Jesse, Saint Louis, Missouri

I would go with surface mount wiring and blown in insulation. Surface wiring (as opposed to hidden wiring in the wall) will allow you to expand or make changes without getting into the sheet rock.

I did all that MrRon suggested. In order to limit the work required I just made the holes to blow the insulation in, near the ceiling and covered them all with one long 1×6 and painted it to match the wall.

-- In God We Trust