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Thin kerf Riving knife?

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Forum topic by MT_Stringer posted 01-26-2013 04:02 AM 2999 views 0 times favorited 15 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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MT_Stringer

2100 posts in 1975 days


01-26-2013 04:02 AM

Topic tags/keywords: question tablesaw

Well, that sucks. I had a thin kerf rip blade on my saw and the riving knife is too thick. That sucks. Had to switch back to the blade that came with the saw to do my ripping.

Grizzly doesn’t list a thin kerf riving knife. Guess I will call tomorrow and chat with them.

So what do you guys do for a thin kerf riving knife?
Thanks
Mike

-- Handcrafted by Mike Henderson - Channelview, Texas


15 replies so far

View nwbusa's profile

nwbusa

1017 posts in 1030 days


#1 posted 01-26-2013 04:07 AM

“Well, that sucks. I had a thin kerf rip blade on my saw and the riving knife is too thin. That sucks. Had to switch back to the blade that came with the saw to do my ripping.”

I’m assuming you mean the riving knIfe is too thick? The riving knife on my saw is pretty close to my thin kerf blades, about 0.090” or so.

-- John, BC, Canada

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MT_Stringer

2100 posts in 1975 days


#2 posted 01-26-2013 04:16 AM

@nwbusa – yeah, I wrote it up wrong. Had to edit it. The blade is an Irwin Marathon 24 tooth blade but it is too thin and the wood pinches at the knife.

-- Handcrafted by Mike Henderson - Channelview, Texas

View KGRRSteve's profile

KGRRSteve

28 posts in 735 days


#3 posted 01-26-2013 04:59 AM

http://www.leestyron.com/zrkgrizzly.php

-- Life has no remote. Get up and change it yourself.

View Mark Kornell's profile

Mark Kornell

632 posts in 1275 days


#4 posted 01-26-2013 05:49 AM

Generally not too hard to make one yourself. I’ve made two…

Find some steel sheet 0.80” or 2mm thick. This will work with almost all thin kerf blades, but you might be able to get away with 3/32” or 0.90” – you need the thickness to be just less than the blade kerf. Trace the outline of your existing riving knife on it and cut it out. It will cut pretty easily with a jigsaw or hacksaw with bimetal blades. Sand to your line and round over all edges. Take care that you don’t bend the sheet, you need it to remain straight.

You’ll need to be very precise about the location of the mounting holes/slots/tabs where it attaches to the saw, as those are used for alignment. Depends on the saw, but if you’re too sloppy about them, you risk the knife being able to come in contact with the blade during operation. DAMHIKT.

-- Mark Kornell, Kornell Wood Design

View MonteCristo's profile

MonteCristo

2098 posts in 932 days


#5 posted 01-26-2013 05:54 AM

I’ve made riving knives out of a good piece of hardwood. Not as strong as steel but they work well and are a whole lot better than nothing.

-- Dwight - "Free legal advice available - contact Dewey, Cheetam & Howe""

View david_larch's profile

david_larch

97 posts in 1046 days


#6 posted 01-26-2013 06:00 AM

Let us know if grizzly says anything. I went through this last year and have been debating recently if I was going to switch to my regular blade in anticipation of my new zero clearance insert and other jigs.

-- www.alibiwoodworks.com

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5600 posts in 2119 days


#7 posted 01-26-2013 02:06 PM

Which model saw do you have?

FWIW, those Irwin Marathon blades aren’t much good for fine woodworking IMO….they’re more of a construction grade blade for rough carpentry. Try their Marples series, or CMT, Infinity, Freud Industrial or Diablo, DeWalt Precision Trim, Amana AGE, Oshlun, etc….you’ll get much better results.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View will delaney's profile

will delaney

321 posts in 1379 days


#8 posted 01-26-2013 02:15 PM

This might be an alternative!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WBMFQ1-8yDQ

View MT_Stringer's profile

MT_Stringer

2100 posts in 1975 days


#9 posted 01-26-2013 04:22 PM

“Which model saw do you have?

FWIW, those Irwin Marathon blades aren’t much good for fine woodworking IMO….they’re more of a construction grade blade for rough carpentry.”

I have the Grizzly 1023.

That is why I bought the Marathon blade. It says it is for ripping, construction. I am ripping 2×4’s and 2×10’s and it works OK on the outer part of the board but the knife binds when I try to rip through the inner part of the boards.
I also have a Marples blade but didn’t want to use it for this project. Dang it anyway. I always seem to make my job harder than it has to be.

I switched back to the factory blade, which is wider and went back to ripping.

-- Handcrafted by Mike Henderson - Channelview, Texas

View SamuraiSaw's profile

SamuraiSaw

489 posts in 708 days


#10 posted 01-26-2013 05:00 PM

Why are you concerned about a thin kerf blade on that saw? You don’t need one with a 3hp saw.

-- Artisan Woodworks of Texas.... www.awwtx.com

View mbs's profile

mbs

1493 posts in 1684 days


#11 posted 01-26-2013 05:05 PM

My sawstop has thin kerf knives. I doubt they make them. May want to call SS and ask them where they get thiers from.

-- Sorry the reply is so long. I didn't have time to write a short reply.

View MT_Stringer's profile

MT_Stringer

2100 posts in 1975 days


#12 posted 01-26-2013 06:01 PM

“Why are you concerned about a thin kerf blade on that saw? You don’t need one with a 3hp saw.”

This is all a learning experience for me. I haven’t had a saw with a riving knife before and surely not a 3hp motor.
Looks like I am getting more experience than I had intended.

Anyway, for the time being, it is put away. I will prolly forget I even bought it in a week or two. :-(

-- Handcrafted by Mike Henderson - Channelview, Texas

View runswithscissors's profile

runswithscissors

1228 posts in 769 days


#13 posted 01-31-2013 06:32 AM

Make your own riving knife out of an old saw blade. Cut it out with a thin steel-cutting disk in your angle grinder. You can make different thicknesses by selecting from various old blades. You should be able to buy non-carbide blades for almost nothing at a thrift store, if you don’t already have something in your old worn out blade collection.

-- I admit to being an adrenaline junky; fortunately, I'm very easily frightened

View MT_Stringer's profile

MT_Stringer

2100 posts in 1975 days


#14 posted 01-31-2013 05:48 PM

To solve the problem, I bought a freud regular kerf blade for ripping. So far it is working just fine.
I also ordered a thin kerf from Lee Styron for use with my existing blade.

-- Handcrafted by Mike Henderson - Channelview, Texas

View runswithscissors's profile

runswithscissors

1228 posts in 769 days


#15 posted 02-13-2013 08:05 AM

I earlier suggested cutting up an old saw blade for a riving knife. And I did this, but it was a bit too thin. Then I ran into a suggestion to use 14 gauge plate steel. I dropped by my local steel supplier, and picked up an offcut about a foot square (enough to make 4 ore 5 riving knives). With a little sanding and polishing, it works perfectly with my Freud Diablo TK blade. For a standard blade, you’d probably want 13 or 12 gauge. The way I checked it out at the steel yard was to bring a piece of oak from home in which I’d sawed a 6” kerf. Slipped nicely over the 14 gauge, with no wiggling, so I knew it was good.

-- I admit to being an adrenaline junky; fortunately, I'm very easily frightened

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