Sawstop PCS - New setup

setup or not setup by factory you should always do your own calibration. in some cases it means less work for you, in some cases more. don’t be surprised if it isn’t spot on as the machine (any machine) moves in the back of a truck and is subject to serious vibrations chances are it will un-calibrate itself.

As for the table flatness – is the main table on it’s own flat? is the valley only created because the extension tables are higher than main table?

for the later- you’ll have to play around and lower the extensions until they lie flat with the main table. if it’s the former, than I would contact your supplier/SS customer service.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

Ditto what PurpLev said!

The saw is made in Taiwan, what do you expect ? Yeah, that was helpful!!!

-- Randy-- I may not be good...but I am slow!

Mine will be delivered on Monday, I hope for better performance. Maybe Sawstop’s quality control took a nosedive or your shipper pushed it off the truck somewhere along the line.

1/16” would have me on the phone to Sawstop getting a solution…

”The saw is made in Taiwan, what do you expect ?”

Courtesy and maturity….are we asking too much?

The factory setup and what arrives to your doorstep are often not the same….transit is a terrible thing. Wings are easy to shim, and it’s a fairly common setup adjustment. Put a good blade on it, and you should be set.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

Courtesy and maturity….are we asking too much? Who’s making the personal attack here besides you Scott ? Like it or not, my advise is, take the saw back and by a new American made Delta Unisaw.

+2 for Purplev’s comments. Calibrate and adjust first according to the instructions. If you have any issues left, call SawStop. I’ve heard from many here that their customer service is very good.

-- "I'm not afraid of heights. I'm afraid of widths." - Steven Wright

I second that some adjustment is always needed and that you should regularly recheck that alignment.

Is it me or is the Sawstop hate\love just getting to be too much. I am almost ready to stop coming to LJ for a while because of the loud minority who are disrepectful and rude to every poster that asks or talks about the technology. I thought it had died out, guess I was wrong. People need to grow up or find a new hobby.

-- It is better to keep your mouth shut and appear stupid than to open it and remove all doubt.

ichbinpete,

No, it is not you. Maybe I should start a thread titled something like “This Has Nothing To Do With SawStop” and ask about something completely non-controversial, like using metal drawer glides (hehe!) and see what happens.

-- "Too much hurry ruins the body. I'll sit easy … fan the spark" - I. Anderson

”The saw is made in Taiwan, what do you expect ?”

Atta boy Chuckie….......................

another brillant contribution

-- Friends don't let friends use right tilt contractor saws......

1/16 is too much, whatever the cause. I would expect no more than a “light band” under a straightedge. That’s probably 1/64 – 1/32 hopefully more on the 1/64 side. That 1/16 will show up in your work; maybe not the whole thing but you have those kinds of skews on all the tools then you will definitely see stuff that doesn’t match up or even suck up well.

I have yet to encounter a perfect tool out of the box. But if you can’t get that into line with wrenches and shims it should go back. You’re not expected to break out a metal working milling machine to tune your tools.

-- Dave, New England - “We are made to persist. that's how we find out who we are.” ― Tobias Wolff

If you’ve got a 1/16” valley in the center of the main table, without the wings, I’d call them before continuing. If it’s a wing holding the straight edge up, try to adjust, swap wings, etc… If you still can’t get it right, call them.

As for settings, stops, etc… Machines are heavy. The more they weigh, the harder they fall. If they get bumped, moved in and out of different temperatures, rattled in trucks, or put down hard by the many forklifts that handled them, it’s perfectly normal for them to require calibration. I’ve purchased many machines, and it’s rare that they show up calibrated. This is true regardless of country of origin, and I have machinery from the US, Canada, Brazil, the Far East, and Europe..

I got spoiled by my General 650’s wings being assembled at the factory. I remember my SawStop ICS wings took some attention, and plenty of muscle, before I got them installed exactly right.

-- It's all good, if it's wood...

Sorry for the delay…. Thank you all for your comments.

The main table is flat, so that’s good.

I just remeasured the “valley” using a 48” straight edge and some shims. The first time I observed the gap it was late at night and my eyes aren’t as young as they used to be… On my second observation I see that the gap is less than 1/32”, closer to 1/64”.

So, based on this new measurement and the comments above, I’m not going to give it another thought.

F

This morning I adjusted the miter gauge to be parallel with the blade. After wrestling one the four bolts loose it was a pleasure adjusting.

The error went from 1/100” over the 10” calibration disk to 5/10000 (that’s half of a 1/1000). WOW! I’m pumped!!!

F

To be honest, I thought the SS was made here in the USA…

I was also considering a PM2000 and the Unisaw, but what a friend of mine pointed out and made the decision a no brainer was the fact that my 15 y/o daughter does more and more woodworking with me. Need I say more ?!?

Disregard some of the useless folks on here that would rather show their ignorance than anything else.

You made a decision based on your specific situation and it looks like it was a good one. That saw will provide you and your daughter many years of service and priceless memories. No one can argue that point.

Don’t forget to post your first project with her!

-- Friends don't let friends use right tilt contractor saws......