Epoxy and a drum sander question...

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Forum topic by Patrick Jaromin posted 09-09-2008 02:44 AM 2060 views 1 time favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Patrick Jaromin

406 posts in 4008 days

09-09-2008 02:44 AM

Topic tags/keywords: epoxy drum sander question

The top on my current project features a couple fairly significant knots that we’ve decided not to remove. Instead I’m planning on filling them with a pour on clear epoxy—the kind you might pour on a bar top. I’m also going to be adding an inlay to the top and would like to run the whole thing through my drum sander when complete to flatten it again.

The only thing that concerns me is what might happen to the epoxy if I run the top through the sander after applying it. It occurs to me that the heat might soften some of the epoxy, gumming up the paper, resulting in a serious burn mark on the top.

Does anyone have any experience with doing this? What are the odds that the epoxy will cause problems?

-- Patrick, Chicago, IL

9 replies so far

View Grumpy's profile


24541 posts in 4027 days

#1 posted 09-09-2008 10:08 AM

Patrick, from what I have heard about the product you intend to use there would be no need to sand it . I have a similiar product but have not used it yet. Would be interested to know how it turns out.

-- Grumpy - "Always look on the bright side of life"- Monty Python

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Patrick Jaromin

406 posts in 4008 days

#2 posted 09-09-2008 12:56 PM

I’m not really using it to cover the entire top – just fill a couple knot holes…so I’m sure I’ll need to do a final sanding to flush it with the top. The product claims to be sand-able, but the directions also discuss using heat to clean off tools with dried epoxy.

-- Patrick, Chicago, IL

View NY_Rocking_Chairs's profile


516 posts in 3773 days

#3 posted 09-09-2008 01:18 PM


I use the West System epoxy though my blurb should apply to all epoxies. Epoxies rely on a chemical curing process and heating or sanding should not cause them to melt or soften. I fill voids with epoxy and sand as necessary. Also I am attaching a project I did where I epoxied the top and sanded it with my ROS from 100 grit down to 500. It never softened or anything. I also just re-fiberglassed a snowmobile cowl and had to sand that with the ROS, no problem there.

What I would be concerned with is that after the curing process a waxy film develops over the cured epoxy. This wax gunks up sand-paper like you wouldn’t believe. I would recommend spot sanding it with some left-over sandpaper to remove the wax before running over your drum sander.

-- Rich, anybody want a peanut?

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Patrick Jaromin

406 posts in 4008 days

#4 posted 09-09-2008 01:49 PM

Thanks so much, Rich! This is just what I was looking for….oh…and….

Go Bills!

-- Patrick, Chicago, IL

View motthunter's profile


2141 posts in 3975 days

#5 posted 09-09-2008 02:25 PM

If you use t-88 epoxy, and add some paint to it, you get a perfectly sandable material.. It will work fine

-- making sawdust....

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Bob #2

3810 posts in 4197 days

#6 posted 09-09-2008 02:29 PM

I generally clean up my epoxy repairs with a metal hand scraper before sanding .


-- A mind, like a home, is furnished by its owner

View herg1's profile


42 posts in 3888 days

#7 posted 09-09-2008 07:43 PM

I did the same as Rich, I used my ROS rather than take a chance on fouling up the belt on my Performax. I used a very slow speed on the ROS and had no problem. In most cases, I underfilled the hole with the apoxy and added additional as needed to reduce the amount of sanding.

-- Roger1

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Patrick Jaromin

406 posts in 4008 days

#8 posted 09-09-2008 08:46 PM

Sounds like I’m gonna take the cautious approach here. Thanks, all!

-- Patrick, Chicago, IL

View AlanWS's profile


19 posts in 3734 days

#9 posted 09-11-2008 02:39 AM

Epoxy continues to harden long after it feels dry and hard to the touch. The epoxy I use most (System 3) would gunk up sandpaper if you tried to sand it the day after it hardened, but a couple of days later it sands beautifully, without any problem.

Whether a waxy layer forms (called “blush”) depends on the type of epoxy, and the weather. You can avoid it by buying a non-blushing epoxy.

-- Alan in Wisconsin

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