Question re: roof for workshop renovation

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Forum topic by millssnell posted 01-23-2013 03:56 PM 942 views 0 times favorited 2 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View millssnell's profile


46 posts in 3009 days

01-23-2013 03:56 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question pine

I am in the process of renovating my 12×20 shed. The original was in very bad condition due to previous termite damage, however there were no active termites and their damage did no extend to the roof or it’s rafters. I have an incredibly cheap supply of rough sawn pine here near Columbia, SC, and will be spraying it when everything is completed.

My question today is regarding the proper way to tie in a roof extension to the wall studs. I have added a small addition (3.5 x 7) on the back of the shed in order to keep my lawn mower and yard tools out of the way in the shop, and have just put a temporary 2×4 as a brace where i will eventually notch out a proper rafter. I have pavers and bricks as footing and will tamp gravel to fill the space. There are big double doors that will open out once I grade the ground down a little more.

1) Is it “alright” to add an extension of roof like this (perpendicular and pitched) , or should the roof extension be gabled in the same direction and slightly smaller?

2) I was planning on doing something similar on the front side for a small covered porch, and want the two to match.

Any feedback is welcome.

2 replies so far

View a1Jim's profile


117417 posts in 3815 days

#1 posted 01-23-2013 04:29 PM

Normally I would ad the the roof after I have the siding on the gable end. I think most folks would just extend the gable style roof and not switch to a shed style roof.

-- wood crafting & woodworking classes

View derosa's profile


1590 posts in 3073 days

#2 posted 01-23-2013 04:44 PM

What you are doing is fine but and as a small addition like that 2×4s should be fine however…
1. You need more rafters, they should ideally be 16” on center, being a shed that may not require a permit or inspection allowing you to go less but you still should have one additional rafter in the center for support of the roof.
2. Because it is under an overhang it ties in nicely just make sure you put flashing all the way across and that it is properly laid in under the siding/boards but above the shingles. Flashing cement is what you want to use, don’t use caulk.
3. Make sure the beam above the door and that the rafters are tying into have been reinforced to support the extra load.

edit: A1Jim- put in the starter strip of siding, the narrow piece that will create the slope in the first full sized board, tack your flashing to that strip then put up the rest of the siding, that keeps the water from coming down the wall and under the roof.

-- A posse ad esse

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