Help with Ridgid Jointer - uneven cutting (left to right)

  • Advertise with us

« back to Power Tools, Hardware and Accessories forum

Forum topic by asloanie posted 01-23-2013 10:51 AM 3613 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View asloanie's profile


54 posts in 2016 days

01-23-2013 10:51 AM

Topic tags/keywords: ridgid troubleshoot uneven help jointer

I have the Ridgid jointer (JP6101).
When I run a pieces of wood through my planer, the inside (towards the fence) gets cut more than the outside edge. If I run it through enough, I end up with a bit of a trapezoid (looking at a cross section of the wood)

1) I have set and double checked my knives (3) that they are exactly at the same height as my outfeed table. I wasn’t able to even slide a .002 feeler gauge between a metal ruler and the knives at top dead center.

2) I am taking off .02 with each pass

3) My fence is set at 90 degrees (checked with Inca right angle)

4) Wood – cutting Maghoney 8/4 6 inches wide (is within blade width)
5) Blades – very new Freud blades.

pulling my hair out, so any ideas would be welcomed.


10 replies so far

View Mark Davisson's profile

Mark Davisson

597 posts in 3345 days

#1 posted 01-23-2013 11:50 AM

Hi, Andy. Here’s a link to an article that includes the section: Tapering (Across Width)

I hope it helps!

-- I'm selfless because it feels so good!

View cutworm's profile


1075 posts in 2821 days

#2 posted 01-24-2013 12:47 AM

Great link Mark. Thanks. I had the same question a while back Andy. I’m new to jointers and was told not to sweat it. Rotate the piece with each pass, etc. Enjoy the new tool.

-- Steve - "Never Give Up"

View RogerInColorado's profile


321 posts in 1982 days

#3 posted 01-24-2013 02:43 AM

Thanks, Mark, that really is a great resource.

Andy, I had your problem and it didn’t go away until I readjusted the knives. I ended up using a Joiner Pal to do that because it’s fast and provides consistent results. I know other woodworkers who use a dial micrometer on a home made saddle and I know woodworkers who use a dial indicator on a saddle. I don’t have that patience. I only know that logic tells me that if I’m getting taper, either the bed isn’t dead flat over the length or one or more of the knives is out of whack.

View asloanie's profile


54 posts in 2016 days

#4 posted 01-24-2013 03:43 AM

Tonight’s been a bit tedious as I thing I went super nerd to measure the heck out of my jointer. I went and bought a 50” Veritas machinist straight edge so I could measure infeed and outfeed gaps.

To clarify: The jointer is taking off more on the fence edge of the board than the outside (operator) edge

Test 1 – Low tech test to see if the infeed and outfeed are warped.
I put my iphone on the “Level” application which gives left right tilt of the phone to a tenth of a degree. There was only about .1 degree difference as I checked 3 places on both the infeed and outfeed tables. I would say that both are aligned within reason (agree?)

Test 2. Is the infeed co-planar with the outfeed.

Using the Veritas and some feeler gauges, I measured the fence edge, middle, and outside edges of my table. Here is what I found

The measurements are space under the Veritas to infeed starting near blades and heading out.

Fence Edge .013 .013 .009 .0015
middle .013 .011 .006 .0015
Outside .016 .013 .009 0.0000
(This does tell me that my infeed table slopes up at the end. Not sure how big of a deal that is. )

Test 3. – Blade and ruler movement test
I placed a metal straight edge ruler on the outfeed and rotated the blades to catch and move the ruler

Blade 1 – 1 mm movement operator, 6mm movement fence
Blade 2 – 2 mm movement operator, 5mm movement fence
Blade 3 – 3 mm movement operator, 4.5mm movement fence

Clearly, the fence edge is higher..Just not sure by how much

1) Does the upward slope (.013 worth) of the infeed make a difference? If not with this..could it affect something else (cupping, etc..)
2) How much is good movement on the ruler test? I can’t seem to find a solid answer?
3) I used a Rockler magnetic blade jig to set the blade heights. should I invest in a depth gauge?


View cutworm's profile


1075 posts in 2821 days

#5 posted 01-24-2013 03:54 AM

I want one of those Rockler jigs. I dread the day when it’s time to replace the knives. I think the answer is in blade 1. That appears to be a good bit of taper. Keep us posted.

-- Steve - "Never Give Up"

View pwalter's profile


79 posts in 2612 days

#6 posted 01-24-2013 03:58 AM

I didn’t read all the answers, and I honestly am just answering this on a whim. But if the piece of wood has a cup in it, and you put the cup down, instead of up, it will only cut the side you put pressure on and start to look like a wedge. Not sure if this is happening to you, but I always put the cup up, that way 2 surfaces are making contact with the in feed/out feed tables. When you put the cup down, the wood only has 2 reference surface. Again, Just a thought

View gfadvm's profile


14940 posts in 2718 days

#7 posted 01-24-2013 04:00 AM

I have the same jointer you have and I believe your problem is due to those blades being higher on the fence end and not related to your other measurement differences (tables). When I changed out my knives I used no jig, just a steel straight edge and the blade movement thing all the way across the table. The most critical thing for me was marking TDC on my fence so I could do all my checking at TDC.It did take me about 45 mijnutes to get all 3 blades” perfectly”level. Best wishes from another Andy

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View Grandpa's profile


3259 posts in 2703 days

#8 posted 01-24-2013 04:12 AM

If the knives are set exactly with the outfeed table and the fence is square then the infeed table has to be the culprit.
It isn’t co-planer with the outfeed table. It could be a little of all these. That is all it can be. Set the knives and check them in 3 places across the knife. Set the beds with each other. now set the fence to the table and you should be there. It isn’t always possible to flip the board end for end like some are saying. Sometimes the grain will tear out making this impractical. Take some time and make the necessary adjustments to you jointer and enjoy woodworking once again.

View RogerInColorado's profile


321 posts in 1982 days

#9 posted 01-24-2013 04:45 AM

I wouldn’t draw any conclusions from test #1 for lots of reasons. Test #2 tells me your infeed is twisted, whether or not it is out of tolerance, only your manual can say. Test #3 explains the problem you described in the original post.

I think “the other Andy” is right. Make sure you mark TDC on your fence (I used a machinist’s square and a scribe so it would be permanent). Then, as he says, do the blade movement thingy all the way across the table. Because of your infeed table situation, you really can’t use the infeed table as a measurement reference. Without confidence that your outfeed table is dead flat, you may not be able to use a jig to set your blades. Once you get it tuned up, you won’t even remember how much time it took you to make it “sweet”, you’ll just enjoy how sweet it is.

View thedude50's profile


3603 posts in 2505 days

#10 posted 01-24-2013 04:56 AM

I have read this before on this same jointer and f I recall the guy had to tighten some screws on the infeed table to make is square again this is like a common problem with this model jointer so do a web search by model number and the answer is there somewhere I wish I was not tired i do the search for you but like my mom always said look it up you will find the answer
FWIW 99 out of 100 times this happens on all jointers it is the knives but if your absolutely sure they are perfect your in feed table is skewed

-- Please check out my new stores and

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics