Garage Cabinets

I’ve been considering garage cabinets myself, for awhile now (always another priority).

I though for awhile about 1/2” ply, but someone pointed out to me that the contents of the cabinets will far outweigh the material. And mass will help support those contents.

-- Jim Maher, Illinois

I’m ready to learn something here. I didn’t know pocket holes would work in 1/2.

L o n g p a u s e….......................r u m b l i n g a n d w h i r r i n g n o i s e s f r o m
s h o p…...........

They won’t, at least with my Kreg jig. I used two pieces of 12mm Baltic stacked in there, and the screw exits right on the corner.

Set up for this kind of joinery and you’re looking at an extended period of shop heartbreak.

BUT if you’re planning face frames, you can dado the bottom and top into the sides and 1/2” material will work fine. Your shelves may need to be thicker however.

If you’re planning Euro, you’ll have difficulty with hinge mounting and overlay.

I wouldn’t bother with french cleats. More work, more material, and you’re giving up capacity. Just put a nailer in each box, top and bottom, and screw (not lags!) the boxes to the studs.

I’ve done major footage of Euro cabinets of 5/8 material. You can also put face frames on it. It makes an inexpensive box, Melamine or even MDF. Use veneer ply for shelves. Paint as needed. Use the rest of your life.

Kindly,

Lee

-- "...in his brain, which is as dry as the remainder biscuit after a voyage, he hath strange places cramm'd with observation, the which he vents in mangled forms." --Shakespeare, "As You Like It"

Lee, why not lags into the studs?

GRK’s are available in Home Depot and work well.

I think that I would prefer 3/4 plywood and I would use a face frame to stiffen it up. I would also put a couple of mid uprights in there and all the middle shelves could be loose with shelf supports. You’ve got 80 inches to distribute the weight and the cabinets would have stronger joints with the 3/4. That’s the way I would do it. It’s my 2 cents worth.

helluvawreck aka Charles
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com

-- If a man does not keep pace with his companions, perhaps it is because he hears a different drummer. Let him step to the music which he hears, however measured or far away. Henry David Thoreau

Lags are a waste of time, unnecessary, sometimes break. If you have 5/8 sheetrock, and 3/4 nailers, 1/4 backs, 2 1/2” screws are just fine. Of course you’ll shim so the box is tight to the wall.

If I were doing Euro boxes I’d do three boxes 26 inches wide (w/ 2 finished ends to make the 80). Pair of doors per box.

Face frame: Two boxes 40 (or one 80 if I had a helper to raise it).

Either construction method will be adequate to your garage stashing needs provided you store your priceless anvil collection somewhere else.

Regarding the 1/2 material and pocket screws, here’s my result:

Kindly,

Lee

-- "...in his brain, which is as dry as the remainder biscuit after a voyage, he hath strange places cramm'd with observation, the which he vents in mangled forms." --Shakespeare, "As You Like It"

Thanks Lee, I understand your reasoning on the lags. I’ve used them many times over the years in applications like this. Obviously not anywhere that I’d be concerned about appearance. But I like them because of the hex head. I find it easier to use a ratchet and socket than a screwdriver. You’re right, they do have a tendancy to break, and that can cause a lot of grief.

Lee, do you have your Kreg jig instructions still?

As I recall, 1/2” material can be done with it but
you have to use:
> shorter screws
> reset the depth collar on the drill
> position the jig with a different backset.

I concur however that pocket screws are not a great
way to join 1/2” carcases. Dados would be good,
or biscuits, dowels, or even screws from the outside.
If you predrill the screw holes accurately the cabinets
will go together neatly.

I have found these Jet clamps useful in putting together
boxes dry for screwing or nailing. They hold things
together well enough to drill pilot holes if you are careful.

Pocket screws will work with 1/2” material provided the correct settings and screws are used.

I would use 3/4” material for the cabinets though.

-- He who dies with the most tools... dies with the emptiest wallet.

Thanks for the help guys , im gonna go with 3/4 and face frame.

Aha! I see! Thanks Loren and NiteWalker for opening my eyes. It’s an adjustment I never give a thought to. Learn something every day here at LJ.

Kindly,

Lee

-- "...in his brain, which is as dry as the remainder biscuit after a voyage, he hath strange places cramm'd with observation, the which he vents in mangled forms." --Shakespeare, "As You Like It"